RAISE A GLASS

You’re probably very familiar with the cava brand Codorníu, which is hardly surprising, as the wine producer in the Penedès region, near Barcelona, has a history dating back to the mid-1500s.

In 1872 it was the first to craft local grapes xarel·lo, macabeo and parellada into sparkling wine using the traditional method (the same way as champagne).

Move forward 150 years, and I’m with the Codorníu team at a restaurant. Sootblack squid ink paella was served as we sipped Codorníu Cuvée Barcelona 1872 Brut (£12, Ocado) and Anna de Codorníu Blanc de Blancs (£13.50, online at thechampagnecompany.com).

Both wines were racy with flavours of zest and fresh and dried apples. Anna flirted with tropical fruit, white peach and vanilla. (Anna’s sister wine, Anna de Codorníu Brut Cava, can be found at Ocado for £11.99.)

Then next day, it was off to meet Bruno Colomer, pictured below, the winemaker who now champions the future of the brand at Codorníu’s tasting room a few miles north of Barcelona.

Codorníu very much believes in the quality of its grapes, grown with sustainable techniques.

Bruno explained: “We have to control the future and the quality of the future. One way to control the future is to know the past.”

The company has access to many vineyards and the grapes are selected to match its quality ladder of wine styles.

Says Bruno: “Style, style, style. That is at our heart. The quality of grapes must be the best for that style.”

Bruno shared some of Codorníu’s prestige collection.

Codorníu Ars Collecta Blanc de Noirs 2015 (£19.80, hedonism.co.uk) is crafted from 80% pinot noir, with trepat and xarel·lo. The flavours of raspberry, brioche and pepper last such a long time, licked by a wet-knife steeliness.

Codorníu was the first to use chardonnay for cava. In Ars Collecta Blanc de Blancs Reserva (£18, Ocado), brioche, hazelnuts, peach and toast play on the palate.

Codorníu may be known for cava, but it also has a portfolio of still wines. Viña Pomal Reserva (£12.99, or £10.99 in a buy six deal at Majestic) has a crunch of red berries, cherries, vanilla and spice. It added fruity definition to a farewell meal.

■ Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.