City full of good sports
David Hughes explores pittsburgh, a vibrant city that’s reinvented itself
NICKNAMED America’s Steel City – Pittsburgh was once the world’s leading producer of the stuff – my preconceptions of a rusting metropolis living on its past blue-collar glories were completely blown away as we emerged from the Fort Pitt Tunnel to be greeted with a stunning panorama of downtown Pittsburgh as we drove on to a bridge.
Set at the junction of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers which join to form the Ohio, Pittsburgh boasts some 446 bridges, more than any other city in the world and earning it another nickname, ‘City of Bridges’.
The steel industry in the region declined decades ago and in its place leading tech companies such as Apple, Google and Uber are turning the city’s South Side into Pennsylvania’s own mini Silicon Valley.
There’s a modern, sleek edge to the place now, although it still has a charisma you won’t find in other well-known US cities.
And with the reinstatement of British Airways’ direct service from London Heathrow to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania’s second biggest city is now more accessible than ever.
The superb downtown views are even more spectacular at night, especially when there’s a live baseball game at PNC Park. Sitting on the banks of the Allegheny, the 38,000 seat stadium is the home of the Pittsburgh Pirates.
The night we touched down, the New York Yankees were in town but our late evening landing meant missing out on seeing them in action, instead we checked into our base for the trip, the EVEN Hotel.
Occupying the 5th and 6th floors of the former Kaufmann’s department store, the hip hotel is in an ideal location and just a six-minute walk from restaurants and bars around the historic Market Square, the heart of downtown. Billed as the city’s first wellness hotel, every room is kitted out with fitness equipment and LED mood lighting, along with the standard flat-screen TV, coffeemaker and mini-fridge.
Although we didn’t get to watch Pirates play, we were able to explore the PNC Park the following morning on a fascinating tour of the stadium, learning about the history of Pittsburgh baseball dating back to the late 19th century, and admiring the Park’s unique architecture.
The removal of a sixth of the stadium opened up a great view over the Allegheny river towards the city. And sending a home run into the water can win players a place in the local history books. So far 38 players have succeeded 58 times – no mean feat as the river is over 400ft away. (mlb.com/ pirates/ballpark)
Beyond the Pirates, the city is home to the Penguins (ice hockey), Steelers (NFL) and Riverhounds (soccer).
All the teams’ strips feature black and yellow colours, while their influence can be seen on virtually every corner of the city – even many of the main bridges are yellow.
Pittsburghers are passionate about their sport, including awardwinning photographer Duane Rieder, founder of The Clemente Museum.
This shrine to the city’s legendary baseball star, Roberto Clemente, showcases a priceless collection of artefacts, photographs and merchandise.
The basement of the museum also houses another of Rieder’s passions. At Engine House Twenty Five Wines, you can indulge in a fine wine tasting experience. (clementemuseum.com)
The city’s hills and rivers offer plenty of scope for outdoor adventures.
Take in Pittsburgh’s most iconic views from the water by kayaking down the Allegheny River. (ventureoutdoors.org)
Rent a bike and ride over its famous bridges and up through beautiful nearby trails. Intrepid cyclists can bike the Great Allegheny Passage, a 335-mile route from Pittsburgh down to Washington DC. (golden trianglebike.com)
Hikers should head to magnificent wild Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania’s largest state park, gateway to the Laurel Highlands and a great location for river rafting and skiing. (dcnr.pa.gov/ Stateparks)
The Steel City has forged an eclectic artistic heritage that will satisfy most culture vultures.
It’s worth travelling out to Laurel Highlands to see Fallingwater, designed by renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright for the Kaufmann family in 1937. The stunning holiday home, built over a waterfall, was nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2015.
The Mattress Factory is an interesting art installation housed in three buildings in Pittsburgh’s Mexthe
ican War Streets. Contrary to its name, it has nothing to do with beds, although I did find myself on one during the visit (mattress.org).
You can’t leave Pittsburgh without a trip to the museum dedicated to the city’s favourite son. The Andy Warhol Museum holds the world’s biggest collection of Warhol pop art and archival materials on seven floors (warhol.org).
A visit to the quirky John Heinz History Centre is sure to be saucy and fun, as you find out about the origins of one of the world’s most famous condiment brands created by Pittsburgher, Henry John Heinz in 1876 (heinzhistorycenter.org), and talking of food, Pittsburgh is rightly proud of its vibrant foodie scene.
Jump on a ’Burgh Bits & Bites culinary tour to get a flavour of one of the city’s five neighbourhoods.
On the Strip District tour you can explore a range of fresh produce stalls – my favourite was Sunseri’s, for its famed pepperoni roll. (burghfoodtour.com)
For a meal with a view, take the famous Duquesne Incline funicular to Monterey Bay Fish Grotto and enjoy sustainably sourced seafood and the glittering city skyline. (montereybay fishgrotto.com) The focus of the fine dining menu at restaurant Spork on Penn Avenue, is on seasonal ingredients, many of which are produced in its allotment next door, and cocktails are prepared at your table. (sporkpittsburgh.com) In the Strip District, The Wigle Whiskey Distillery and Bar serves excellent spirits along with fantastic cocktails. From the quirky range of whiskey flavours I opted for Pickle. (wiglewhiskey.com) Taking a tentative sip, I was pleasantly surprised by just how much I enjoyed it. And that’s exactly how I’d describe my time in Pittsburgh.