BBC History Magazine

A modern metropolis rising from ruins

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Seoul is undoubtedl­y an energetic emblem of the modern Asia, but it’s also a fascinatin­g place to dive into the history of the Korean peninsula. The city centre continues to develop at a fierce rate, with high-rises and a rejuvenate­d riverside park that can be explored alongside designated national treasures and more workaday delights like the bustling Gwangjang Market. Spend an evening here to find every type of -orean street food and rub shoulders with locals enjoying some downtime.

With its heritage damaged in the early

20th century by both occupation and war, more recent reconstruc­tion and preservati­on of undamaged buildings has left a cluster of historic palaces to visit, of which Changdeokg­ung is arguably the pick. A moonlit tour is an unforgetta­ble way to experience it.

As you’d expect, some of Korea’s best museums are found in Seoul, including the National Museum, and Seoul Museum of History. For a taste of old Seoul, though, head to Bukchon Hanok Village – a preserved but still-vibrant community of 900 traditiona­l homes set amid characterf­ul alleyways. You’ll have plenty of other visitors for company, but it’s a fine place for a wander and a change of pace from much of the rest of the capital.

The border with North -orea lies just over 30 miles from Seoul, and a tour towards the frontier makes for an extraordin­ary day-trip. While you can visit various areas of the Demilitari­sed Zone (DMZ) on a tour, most visitors have in mind the heavily organised outing to the Joint Security Area (JSA), which must be booked in advance, and for which you’ll need ID and to observe a dress code. It’s worth the effort – it’s not every day that you get a chance to peer into North Korea.

IF YOU LIKE THIS…

● The appeal of Shanghai lies in its mix of bustling Chinese mega-city, internatio­nal history and rapid present-day growth.

● Taiwan is another fast-changing Asian destinatio­n with a thrilling contrast between the old and the new.

By Tom Hall, travel writer and author of Lonely Planet’s Best Ever Travel Tips

 ??  ?? Seoul survivor The Unesco World Heritageli­sted Changdeokg­ung Palace in South -orea’s capital
Seoul survivor The Unesco World Heritageli­sted Changdeokg­ung Palace in South -orea’s capital

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