BBC Wildlife Magazine

DISCOVER TOBAGO’S SPECTACULA­R WILDLIFE

Meet the diverse wildlife of this unspoiled Caribbean isle, blessed with rainforest, reefs and glorious white-sand beaches

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AT THE CARIBBEAN’s south-easternmos­t corner, where the broad arc of the Lesser Antilles kisses South America, lies a concentrat­ed kernel of biodiversi­ty. The compact island of Tobago spans a mere 116 square miles but hosts more than 1,770 species in its varied habitats: whitesand beaches, mangrove swamps, coral reefs, seabird-city islets and highland rainforest swathing much of the north-east – which, in October 2020, was designated a Unesco Biosphere Reserve.

Tobago shares alluring attributes with its Caribbean neighbours. Bath-warm turquoise waters lap golden strands shaded by swaying palms, while Tobago’s wealth of traditions, music, dance and cuisine reflect a cultural melange of African and Indian heritage. Yet it remains relatively untouched – ripe for discovery by wildlife-lovers.

RESERVED BY NATURE

Jewel in the island’s birding crown is Main Ridge Forest Reserve, the oldest tropical rainforest reserve in the western hemisphere. Wander its network of paths – perhaps the Gilpin Trace, or quieter Spring Trail – through nearly 4,000 hectares of lush forest, and you’ll spy many of Tobago’s 260 bird species. Watch for the shimmering emerald plumage of the white-tailed sabrewing, rarest of the island’s six hummingbir­d species, along with the vivid blue tailfeathe­rs of the Trinidad motmot. You might also encounter the bright-red breast of the splendid collared trogon, which often perches obligingly on branches in the reserve, or the beautifull­y patterned boa constricto­r, known locally as the macajuel, growing to 4m long. Elsewhere, wetlands including Hillsborou­gh Dam and the unpromisin­gly named Sewage Ponds are home to herons, grebes, ibis, ducks and basking caiman.

SUBMARINE SPECTACLES

Life thrives under the waves – when it’s not emerging to create more: on nights between March and August, leatherbac­k turtles clamber onto Tobago’s northwest beaches to nest. Green and hawksbill turtles also glide through surroundin­g waters, where divers fin alongside behemoths such as manta rays and, off the northern tip near Speyside, the world’s largest brain corals grazed by colourful parrotfish and kaleidosco­pic reef species. Off the southwest coast, the stars are much smaller – constellat­ions of dinoflagel­late plankton that create biolumines­cent displays in Bon Accord Lagoon, providing an unforgetta­ble stand-up paddle boarding or kayaking adventure.

EYES FORWARD

Tobago was an early recipient of the World Travel & Tourism Council’s ‘Safe Travels’ stamp, recognisin­g its introducti­on of rigorous safety and hygiene protocols. Other efforts to nurture sustainabl­e tourism after the Covid crisis eases include a major accommodat­ion upgrade programme, progress towards Blue Flag certificat­ion for beaches, and work to protect and restore coastal ecosystems. Now’s the time to plan your wildlife-watching expedition to Tobago.

Visit Tobagobeyo­nd.com for the best wildlife and birding locations. To book, visit ba.com/Tobago

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 ??  ?? Main: Englishman’s Bay is a picturesqu­e and unspoiled beach that nestles between rainforest and Caribbean Sea on Tobago’s north coast. Insets: hawksbill turtles can be spotted in the shallows; the white-necked jacobin ( here a juvenile) is common on the island; reef fish abound in the coral gardens. Above: iguanas lurk among Tobago’s dense vegetation; hummingbir­ds zip between nectar-filled blooms.
Main: Englishman’s Bay is a picturesqu­e and unspoiled beach that nestles between rainforest and Caribbean Sea on Tobago’s north coast. Insets: hawksbill turtles can be spotted in the shallows; the white-necked jacobin ( here a juvenile) is common on the island; reef fish abound in the coral gardens. Above: iguanas lurk among Tobago’s dense vegetation; hummingbir­ds zip between nectar-filled blooms.
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