NOW GO THERE
Where to eat, stay and ramble on the Suffolk coast by Mark Cocker and Angela Linforth
WALKS 1 Blythburgh to Walberswick
A four-mile morning stroll will take you by the wild wader-and wildfowl-packed estuary, across Suffolk’s famous heath, and through golden-leaved woods in perfect time for lunch in one of the coast’s most beautiful villages.
2 Dunwich cliffs to Minsmere Scrape
Descend from the NT carpark to one of the most justly celebrated parts of East Anglia. The 2-3 mile circuit around the RSPB scrape hides is a golden opportunity to enjoy Suffolk’s magnificent sea-and-sky space, its fabulous birds and rare coastal habitats. 017687 74238, helingholmestate.co.uk
3 Aldeburgh to Thorpeness
This 2.5-mile seaside promenade is a walk for all ages and abilities. There are glorious wide autumn panoramas on one side and the RSPB’s North Warren marshes on the other. Along the way you can enjoy Maggi Hambling’s Scallop sculpture celebrating Benjamin Britten on Aldeburgh beach.
IF IT’S RAINING… 4 Snape Maltings
With a rich industrial history, the Maltings is now a world-class music venue and home to the Aldeburgh Festival. Seek shelter in its large homeware store, food hall, galleries, antiques centre and cafes. An active exhibitions programme, monthly food market and occasional vintage fair offer regular change. snapemaltings.co.uk
PUBS
“All the comforts of life in a tavern are known/ ‘tis his home who possesses not one of his own.” So wrote the poet George Crabbe in 1810, and the creature comforts of Suffolk taverns have changed little in 200 years. Not only are there great pubs in almost every village on the coast, but Adnams – surely one of England’s best beers – has its home in Southwold. If you are looking for the perfect pint (mine’s Broadside) with freshly caught seafood then try one of the following:
5 The Oyster Inn, Butley
This has recently reopened to keep alive a 400-year-long tradition. Once the haunt of smugglers, it is now the ideal stop after a visit to Orford Ness. 01394 459722, butleyoyster.com
6 The Jolly Sailor, Orford
The Jolly Sailor could have hosted the young George Crabbe himself and dates to the 1600s. Its garden has views over the Alde marshes. 01394 450243, jollysailororford.co.uk
7 The Bell Inn, Walberswick
Situated on the village green at Walberswick, this great family pub and has an impressive 600-year record of conviviality. 01502 723109, bellinnwalberswick.co.uk
8 The Lord Nelson, Southwold
Next to the home of Suffolk beer, its lovely seaside views befit the nautical theme of the interior. 01502 722079, thelordnelsonsouthwold.co.uk
PLACE TO MOOCH 9 Southwold
If you can tear yourself away from the sandy beach with its pier and iconic beach-huts, the town centre has much to offer. While there are a few chains, there are galleries galore, plenty of independent clothes shops and coffee stops along with a few antiques emporia, plus many opportunities to quaff the local Adnams brews.
EAT 10 Sole Bay Fish Company, Southwold
A shack at the harbour’s edge, the Sole Bay Fish Company is part shop, part restaurant. A menu of the freshest seafood and fish is executed flawlessly and served simply. Booking is essential. 01502 724421; solebayfishco.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY 11 The Crown and Castle, Orford
“A restaurant with rooms”, this is Hotel Inspector Ruth Watson’s showcase hotel. A view of Orford Castle, stylish understated bedrooms (five dog-friendly) and a top-class restaurant make it a great place to stay. 01394 450 205; crownandcastle.co.uk
12 Brudenell, Aldeburgh
One of a small Suffolk chain, the Brudenell overlooks the beach at Aldeburgh. Decor is bright and breezy seaside blues and stripes. The restaurant menu is a tasty mix of fish and local meats and a “bark bar” shouts that pooches are welcome. 01728 452071; brudenellhotel.co.uk
13 Interludes
This first-floor Aldeburgh apartment is quietly and conveniently situated right by the beach, shops and attractions of the town. Cosy, well-equipped and stylish, it is full of friendly advice about this culturally rich area. 01502 722717, suffolk-secrets.co.uk