A MILLER’S TALE
Enjoy an absorbing autumnal amble en route to a striking post-industrial landscape veiled by Peak District woodland, says Neil Coates
T wooded he through Peak vale river District with Derwent the looming eastern in a arcs moorland shoulders. Tributaries tumble from the tops, foaming amid wizened woodlands little-changed in centuries. Padley Gorge has the best of these, draining Burbage Moor to the Derwent at Grindleford. An enchanting stroll explores this chasm before looping up through woodlands-hrouded industrial heritage.
1 A SURPRISING START
Opposite the car park at Surprise View, heathery paths lead half-left over shapely Owler Tor to a footbridge across Burbage Brook. Don’t cross it!
2 IN CONTORTIONS
Instead, turn downstream (sign Padley Gorge) to the gate into the extraordinary Yarncliff Wood. Autumn in these woods of contorted sessile oak and lofty pines sees an explosion of colours, with the trees’ vibrant palette of reds countered by the greens of the mossy boulders littering the slopes. Look for impressive fungi, too. From the bottom of the gorge, an endless string of waterfalls adds rousing voice.
3 TORRENT VIEW
Ignore the fingerpost for Surprise View; then, as the main path starts up steps in another 250m, take the side path back-left. Drop to a stone bench, turn right and cross the footbridge below. From here, adhere to the path (at times steep and muddy) that rises right, up steps and then close above the torrent, to reach an access lane at Padley Mill.
4 IN TRAINING
Grindleford Station (on the Manchester to Sheffield line) and Station Café are to the left, otherwise turn right past the old mill. Take the first-right track, rising to a gate. Some 50m beyond, fork left in front of the arched pumphouse on the path climbing amid trees. Go through a handgate (right) and uphill 40 paces, then left on a wide path.
5 BIZARRE LANDSCAPE
Drift right up across this area of old workings, the upper levels of Bolehill Quarry where glorious open birch-woods have reclaimed the area.
An engaging grassy-track ramble beneath the windriffled yellowing foliage eventually reveals the astonishing sight of countless millstones littering the verges and deeper glades.
This area was for centuries one of England’s premier sources of these stones, used mainly by corn-mills and the Sheffield cutlery industry. Alternative, higher-quality stones, then the advent of synthetic grinders, meant the industry died out almost overnight 80 years ago, with ready-worked stones simply abandoned in-situ. It’s a very unexpected and bizarre sight.
HOME AGAIN
As the woodland and millstones end at a wide, spreading beech, turn sharp-right on a path (castiron valve-covers here) up to a moorland-edge stile. Keep ahead back to Surprise View.