REFLECTIONS OF GOLDEN GLORY
On this walk in Wordsworth country, autumn’s hues rival those of New England, says Simon Whaley
On 23 October 1802, Dorothy Wordsworth wrote in her journal: “A breathless, grey day that leaves the golden woods of autumn quiet in their tranquillity, stately and beautiful in their decaying. The lake is a perfect mirror.”
This six-mile circular tour around Grasmere and Rydal Water illustrates perfectly how her description of the autumnal landscape is just as evocative today as it was when she wrote it in her journal 215 years ago.
The Coffin Trail runs below Nab Scar, not far from Rydal Mount house (once home to Dorothy and her brother William – and still in the Wordsworth family). This historic route to Grasmere’s St Oswald’s Church is the perfect altitude from which to absorb Rydal Water’s reflective autumnal views. Look long enough and not only are the season’s traditional red, orange, yellow and brown tones visible, but there’s also a wider palette of purples, silvers, greens and whites.
LUSCIOUS LEMONS
Further along, White Moss Common is ideal for glancing back at Nab Scar’s lower slopes, lined with larches of luscious lemon hues.
The Coffin Trail drops past another fascinating Wordsworthian property, Dove Cottage, before heading into the main village. With fewer tourists visiting in the autumn season, it’s the perfect time to explore the Wordsworth family graves in the churchyard.
The return circuit around the water of Grasmere begins at Red Bank, just opposite St Oswalds. For picturesque panoramas across the lake towards Loughrigg, take a brief diversion to Allan Bank, a third Wordsworthian dwelling.
About halfway along the lake, a footpath drops to the water’s edge, where mighty oaks display their golden crowns. The reflections of the wooded slopes of Lord Cragg and Banerigg create an arboreal kaleidoscope on Grasmere’s still surface. On blustery, changeable days, a host of iridescent rainbows can be seen on Dunmail Raise to the north.
AND SO TO TEA
From Grasmere’s weir, a path runs alongside the River Rothay, through trees and their fallen leaves, before climbing to a stone wall. Turn left and marvel at Rydal’s seductive southern shores.
To complete the circuit, cross the River Rothay near St Mary’s Church, built in 1824 on a spot selected by William Wordsworth. Don’t miss Rydal Hall’s gardens, nor its excellent Old School Room tea shop, the perfect conclusion to this autumnal amble.