LAKELAND PEAKS TO YORKSHIRE SHORES
Long-distance walking is good for mind, body and soul, and far more achievable than many might think, suggests James Forrest as he wanders through the joys of Wainwright’s cross-country walk 30 years after the luminary’s death
One should always have a definite objective, in a walk as in life – it is so much more satisfying to reach a target by personal effort than to wander aimlessly.” So wrote
Alfred Wainwright about his Coast to Coast hike, a poetic turn of phrase that captures the magic of long-distance walking.
Journeying across a landscape by foot is a beguiling experience, especially when it involves multiple days.
Not only is the sense of achievement palpable, but the mode of travel – slow, purposeful and intimate – creates a deep connection between people, place and nature. The daily exercise floods your body with happiness-inducing endorphins and, for many, the simple process of putting one foot in front of the other can be extremely therapeutic. Everyday anxieties float away, your mood is restored, and a renewed sense of energy and vitality kicks in.
You don’t have to be ultra-fit to take on a long-distance walk. By splitting up the journey into bite-sized daily chunks – with stopovers at cosy B&Bs – what initially seems like a scarily long walk can easily become an achievable undertaking. Good preparation, a few essential items of gear and a little training are all you need to be ready for life on the open trail.
ADVENTURE WITH ALFRED
The UK is blessed with myriad long-distance trails – the Long Distance Walkers Association lists more than 1,600 routes, but only a few rise above the din to achieve cult status.
One such trail is Alfred Wainwright’s Coast to Coast. The much-celebrated writer is perhaps best-known for his seven guidebooks describing 214 fells in the Lake District, but his long-distance route across northern England is a close second in the hearts of British ramblers.
The trail traverses the width of England, from St Bees Head in the west to Robin Hood’s Bay in the east. Hikers begin the 182-mile walk on the shores of the Irish Sea and, two weeks later, having walked across the Lake District, Pennines, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors, arrive at the North Sea. The countryside covered is “beautiful almost everywhere, yet extremely varied in character, with mountains and hills, valleys and rivers, heather moors and sea cliffs combining in a pageant of colourful scenery,” as Wainwright put it. For sheer diversity and drama, this walk is perhaps unrivalled by any other in the UK.
CHOOSING YOUR SEASON
So, when is the best time to walk Wainwright’s Coast to Coast? Go in spring or summer for longer days, less rain (hopefully) and a marvellous wildlife spectacle on day one of your hike. From St Bees Head you’ll spot thousands of guillemots on their cliff-side breeding ledges and a 100-strong cormorant colony, as well as kittiwakes, razorbills and fulmars. Autumn will be quieter and more colourful, while winter – when weather can be harsh – is best avoided.
This year is also a poignant time to set foot on the Coast to Coast trail, as it marks 30 years since Wainwright’s death, in January 1991. If you’re feeling intrepid, take on the whole 182-mile pilgrimage; or, if time is scarce, simply walk a stage or two. My favourite leg is the delightful Rosthwaite to Grasmere section. Crossing the Central Fells in the Lake District, this stage includes more than 700m of ascent.
1 A WALK IN HEAVEN
From the National Trust car park in Rosthwaite, head north-east to the main road. Turn left and then right to cross the bridge over Stonethwaite Beck. Turn right and head south on a good path that veers south-east.
Beyond a gate, bear right and head south, then southeast, following a wall running parallel to the beck. Wainwright called this Stonethwaite section “a walk in heaven” – the wobbly drystone walls, craggy peaks and babbling brook really are a Lakeland idyll. Go through a series of gates, cross Willygrass Gill and continue south-east along the beck. Pass Galleny Force and arrive at Smithymire Island.
2 DALE VIEWS
Ignore the turn-off to the right and instead climb gently south-east. Go through a gap in a wall, pass a sheepfold and
“LONG WALKS CREATE A DEEP CONNECTION BETWEEN PEOPLE, PLACE AND NATURE”
continue following Greenup
Gill. Go through a gate, pass a waterfall and continue southsouth-east to emerge at flatter terrain. Savour the views behind you of the Borrowdale valley, where the woodland, grey cliffs, emerald pastures and white cottages “blend in perfect harmony,” as Wainwright noted.
Head up a spur to the base of Lining Crag. Climb to the left of the cliffs and veer right to emerge above Lining Crag. Continue south-south-east and then south over flatter, boggy ground, where the trod becomes indistinct, to arrive at Greenup Edge.
3 GILL TO CRAG
Descend gently east on a stone-pitched path. Cross Flour Gill and drop down into a boggy plateau to the east of the
Birks crags, crossing a number of other small streams. Climb briefly south-east to reach a line of old metal fenceposts and a cairn. Head north-east on a path skirting to the south of the tarn at Brownrigg Moss.
Veering slightly right, ascend easily to the rocky summit of Calf Crag.
4 ROCKY RIDGELINE
Descend north-east and then south-east over undulating terrain. Skirt east above Pike of
Carrs and bear south-east along the ridge to the cairn on the summit of Gibson Knott.
Drop south-east on a good trod, sticking to the right of the crest, then descend to Bracken Hause. Ahead, climb steeply to arrive at The Howitzer, a slanting slab of bare rock that marks Helm Crag’s summit. Scramble up it if you dare, taking extreme care as the drops are precipitous. Unnerved by the exposure, Wainwright himself never made it up The Howitzer, so don’t feel guilty if you too give it a miss.
5 LION AND THE LAMB
Continue south-east to the rocky excrescence known as
The Lion and The Lamb
(from the valley the outcrop resembles said animals), before descending the nose of the ridge south-east, then south. The views over Grasmere lake are quite breathtaking.
Loop sharply west and then south around White Crag. Continue descending east and then south to emerge at the road next to cottages. Turn left and take Easedale Road south-east all the way into Grasmere. This lovely village, which Wainwright described as “endowed with sylvan grace and dignity”, is perfect for a post-hike coffee and flapjack, or an overnight stay in a comfy B&B.
“THE CRAGGY PEAKS AND BABBLING BROOKS ARE A LAKELAND IDYLL”