BBC Countryfile Magazine

Ullswater Cumbria

Board a historic steamer then trace the lake shore on one of Wainwright’s most-loved paths.

- By Adrienne Wyper

DISTANCE: BOAT: 4.8 MILES/7.7KM | WALK: 6.6 MILES/10.7KM TIME: 4–4.5 HOURS LEVEL: MODERATE ASCENT: 198M TERRAIN:

After a relaxing boat journey, an undulating path skirts to the lake shore with some steep sections. Path is rocky and rooted in places.

Alfred Wainwright called this walk along Ullswater's south shore “the most beautiful and rewarding in Lakeland”.

Only accessible by boot or boat, the route meanders through woods and over hills with the rising skyline of the Helvellyn Range to the south.

1 ALL ABOARD

The cruises run by Ullswater ‘Steamers’ have been running for over 160 years, connecting various points along the lake’s 20-mile shoreline. The most southerly landing point is the quaint village of Glenriddin­g – it’s here that this journey begins. Starting your day by boarding this historic ferry means you don’t have to worry about missing it at the end, so relax and enjoy the 35-minute boat ride to Howtown and the start of your walk. The views from the boat are fabulous. On the left shore is Glencoyne Wood, where Wordsworth saw those daffodils.

2 COOLING DIP

In need of sustenance? Disembark the Ullswater ferry at Howtown pier and head to the stone-walled Howtown Hotel tearoom (turn right on the road by the pier), serving sandwiches, soup, sausage rolls and cakes. To rejoin the way, take the track opposite the hotel turn-off.

Follow the signs to Sandwick. If you’ve worked up a sweat, you can jump off the rocks at Kailpot Crag and swim at Sandwick Bay. Follow the narrow, rocky, rooted path into Hallinhag Wood, passing three poetry-inscribed stones.

At Sandwick Bay, turn inland, crossing a beck to skirt Scalehow Wood. The path climbs as Scalehow Force waterfall gushes down, before curving right to the shore.

This straightis­h section to Silver Bay, another paddling point, gives expansive lake and islet views. Damselflie­s flicker above the water’s surface, and overhead you may spot nesting peregrine falcons.

One of the UK’s oldest herds of red deer roams the slopes of Place Fell; you’ll hear them bellowing later in the year in the rutting season.

3 LAST LEG

Turn right at Side Farm, across the green fields of the Patterdale Valley and over Grisedale Beck to the A592. To refuel, continue to the village centre for Helvellyn Country Kitchen’s burgers, wraps, salads, soup and sandwiches; Fellbites’ substantia­l sandwiches, including Cumberland sausage, or Let It Brew’s toasted baguettes, coffee, local ice cream and cake.

 ??  ?? In May and June, bluebells flower on the slopes above nine-milelong Ullswater, the second largest waterbody in the Lake District
In May and June, bluebells flower on the slopes above nine-milelong Ullswater, the second largest waterbody in the Lake District
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? ABOVE The Ullswater ‘Steamers’ company was founded in 1855
ABOVE The Ullswater ‘Steamers’ company was founded in 1855
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? ELEVATION PROFILE
ELEVATION PROFILE
 ??  ?? MAP ROUTE Scan here to access this route on your mobile device.
MAP ROUTE Scan here to access this route on your mobile device.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom