BBC Countryfile Magazine

Aber Falls Gwynedd

Wander through a lush valley in Snowdonia to discover one of Wales’ most dramatic waterfalls.

- By Dorothy Hamilton

Rhaeadr Fawr, known commonly as Aber Falls, lives up to its name. Meaning ‘big waterfall’ in Welsh, it spills over a tree-shrouded ledge in the north of the Carneddau mountains, falling 37m into the river valley below. So powerful are the cascades that they create their own microclima­te, filling the air with moisture and offering the humidity required for a range of moss, liverwort, fern and lichen species to flourish.

The fresh growth that appears in the woodlands and grasslands in spring adds to the lushness of the landscape, making it the perfect season to set out on a four-mile circular walk to these spectacula­r waterfalls.

1 WOODLAND WANDER

Park at Bont Newydd and pass through the kissing gate into Coedydd Aber Nature Reserve. Follow the path beside Afon Rhaeadr-Fawr, where dippers bob on the river boulders, before arriving at a bench embellishe­d with carvings of the local wildlife.

Further on, cross a footbridge and pass through a gate. Bear right alongside oak, birch and hazel woodlands – a good habitat for spring songbirds. At an informatio­n board, follow the track ahead.

After a steep section, there are glimpses of the waterfall at the head of the valley. Ignore a path on the left to soon reach the visitor centre.

2 STEEP INCLINE

Continue along the track, passing a fenced-off enclosure containing the foundation­s of a recently excavated Iron Age roundhouse. In the far corner are the remains of a more recent kiln and a standing stone. Pass below a scree-strewn hillside to the rocks below the 37m-high Aber Falls, at their most impressive after heavy rainfall. The river boasts one of the steepest gradients from source to sea in England and Wales.

3 NORTH WALES PATH

From the falls, retrace your steps briefly and cross a footbridge over the river to take the path uphill to a viewpoint of the dramatic falls.

Walk back to the fence and climb a stile to continue along the North Wales Path. Look out for ravens, buzzards and peregrines in the skies above you. After crossing a footbridge at a lesser waterfall, the path veers north, crosses a few streams, then heads uphill to a great viewpoint. If you are lucky you may spot Carneddau ponies on the slopes. These semi-wild Celtic ponies have lived on these rugged mountains for hundreds of years.

Follow the clear path along the hillside and, at a waymark, take the path indicated to rejoin the wider path. Continue along it and you will pass a plantation and a metal farm building to reach a fork in the track.

4 MEDIEVAL MOUND

Leave the North Wales Path and take the right-hand, stony track downhill. Just before it enters trees, go right on a waymarked path and descend the steep hillside.

In a small field near houses you can see a conspicuou­s mound with a flat top. A wooden keep, built by either the Normans or one of the Welsh princes, once stood on this medieval motte.

At the bottom of the hill, pass through the gate on to a lane. Go right to the car park or, for refreshmen­ts, go left to Yr Hen Felin.

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 ??  ?? 4.2 MILES/6.8KM TIME: 2.5–3 HOURS LEVEL: MODERATE ASCENT: 198M TERRAIN:
Woodland paths, firm tracks and rough pasture. There are some stream crossings and one or two short but steep sections, so walking boots are essential.
4.2 MILES/6.8KM TIME: 2.5–3 HOURS LEVEL: MODERATE ASCENT: 198M TERRAIN: Woodland paths, firm tracks and rough pasture. There are some stream crossings and one or two short but steep sections, so walking boots are essential.
 ??  ?? LEFT Glacial action resulted in the build-up of rock fragments, known as moraine, at the base of the falls
LEFT Glacial action resulted in the build-up of rock fragments, known as moraine, at the base of the falls
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