Coastal caves and mines
This exciting summer adventure starts and ends with rolling waves, secret caves and the remains of a shipwreck on one of Cornwall’s least-known beaches, say Jen and Sim Benson
Chapel Porth, Cornwall
It may be tiny and relatively undiscovered compared to many of Cornwall’s beaches, but Chapel Porth and its surrounding area is a treasure trove of fascination and wonderful for walking.
Any visit should either begin or end on the beach, watching the waves roll in, scrambling up the rocky stacks and exploring the deep caves that run with cascades of water. At low tide, you can spot the boiler of the SS Eltham, a steamer that was wrecked here during stormy high seas in 1928.
ST AGNES INDUSTRY
Chapel Porth was a busy copper- and tin-mining area until the end of the 19th century and the place would have been dotted with heaps of spoil, mine workings and wooden huts and sheds, some of which are still visible. Nature has, for the most part, covered over the past and you can now find trees such as willow, sycamore, blackthorn and elder growing along the rising valley of Chapel Coombe. Over the summer months, keep an eye (and ear) out for birds here, including wrens, warblers, stonechats and chaffinches during the day. At dusk, look out for the rare greater horseshoe bats that emerge from the mineshafts on the hunt for flying insects.
This walk showcases some of St Agnes’ finest coastal scenery, with all of the ascent taking place in the first half and a long, downhill finish back to the beach.
1 CLIMB THE COMBE
Start at the rear of the car park, then follow the footpath just to the right of the café. Cross over the footbridge and head away from the sea up the narrow valley of Chapel Coombe.
Take care to keep to the path as the heather- and gorse
“SCRAMBLE UP ROCKY STACKS AND EXPLORE DEEP CAVES”
covered slopes hide the remnants of the area’s mining history, including mineshafts and spoil heaps. As you reach the Charlotte United engine house towards the top of the hill, you may spot orange staining on the soil and plants, caused by iron hydroxide being washed from the mines.
WELCOME INN
Continue on the footpath until you reach a minor road. Turn right here and follow the road through the hamlet of Towan Cross until you reach a junction opposite the
Victory Inn.
Turn right here and follow the road for a short distance, keeping to the verge, until you can turn right on to a bridleway signed to Porthtowan. Follow this towards the sea.
RUINS IN THE HEATH
Where the bridleway forks, stay right, following the path across the heathland towards the ruins of Great Wheal Charlotte, a former copper mine, now National Trust, that was used by US troops for target practice during the Second World War. Continue along the path to reach the headland summit of Mulgram Hill, from which you’ll see glorious coastal views on a clear day.
BACK TO THE BEACH
Turn right and follow the wide track, known locally as the American Road, as it zigzags down the headland towards Chapel Porth, turning left at the path junction at the bottom to return to the car park.
Extract from
100 Great Walks with Kids: Fantastic Stomps Around Great Britain
by Jen and Sim Benson
(Bloomsbury, £16.99)