Blazing beauty
Start by savouring the sensory splendour of an Edwardian garden in late summer before following in the footsteps of Julie Brominicks to make your way to an unexpected Eden
Powis Castle Garden, Powys
Sun-warmed bricks coax heady scents from the roses. Peacocks wail. Apples blush. It’s a feast for all the senses when this south-facing garden is at its best in late summer.
It’s the time when acers begin their slow burn and the smoke bush smoulders. When Dahlias, Rudbeckias, katsuras, Colchicums and Penstemons roll out spice-market colours that are richer and warmer even than the sandstone cliff from which the garden has been encouraged. On top of the cliff is Powis Castle, which inside is dark, polish-scented and woody. Its courtyard boasts all the usual National Trust amenities – a tearoom, gift shop and toilets – but note that booking is advisable at busy times, though disabled access (temporarily adapted due to Covid restrictions) should be fully back on track by now.
OLD AND NEW
Although 13th century in origin, Powis Castle is a mishmash of modernisations and so too is the garden, though here it’s the Edwardian formal taste and attentions of Lady Violet Herbert (former Countess of Powis) that prevail.
There is something of the French coastal town of Biarritz in the terraces and balconies, something hot and languid. Secreted in them is an aviary redolent of Kew, with potted ferns and blue shade. Alcoves, too, offer retreat from blistering heat. Relax there while letting your eyes trickle over the hedge-edged open lawns and on to the hills beyond – Long Mountain and the Breiddens on the border.
GILDED GARDENS
But now is not the shrill clamour of June, nor winter when the pollarded yew tumps come into their own. Now is the mellowing time, when the light has a hint of old gold. When a flush of warm colour fans the terraces, the woodland grasses are a shimmering ocean of seedheads and the orchard fruit is turning rosy.
To experience an intimate and altogether different type of garden, however, you might consider embarking upon the short walk between Powis Castle and Dingle.