MI AVENTURA MEXICANA: FROM MEXICO CITY TO THE YUCATÁN PENINSULA
Another issue of Bike-mag calls for another one of my adventures. The next one I shall recall comes from a sometimes misrepresented part of a great continent on which I spent my previous cycle trips; North America. The string of amazing countries from Mexico down to Panama offers another side to America’s story, and it’s one of stark contrast to what lies North of Tijuana.
My first port of call was Mexico City, a city that, on reflection, I wish I’d enabled myself to explore more, but reading too much into districts to avoid had left me seeing just a fraction of a wonderful place.
My initial feeling was apprehension after a taxi journey from the airport to the hotel mainly passed by polluted billboards, food stalls and heavy traffic. However, after just one night, all this was brushed aside. I ambled idly around what the hostel staff had marked as
‘safe zones’ and discovered a vibrant city full of life, amazing buildings and friendly people. No cycling for me just yet as I decided to spend my time in the country’s capital exploring these streets before taking a tour of the ancient site of the Teotihuacan pyramids – known as a ‘place of the Gods’ by locals.
I was in Mexico City for a few days overall, and after seeing the amazing ancient pyramids and more of the city’s winding and unpredictable streets, my bus out of town was booked.
My second stop was where my first cycle happened - in the city of Puebla, lying South-east of Mexico City. By contrast, it was a quiet location bursting with colonial influence and scattered with parks and gardens aplenty. After a lot of searching, I finally managed to find a place from which I could borrow a pair of wheels – a place that claimed to be the only bike-hire establishment in the city. So I guess, by default, the best.
Aboard my high-standard city bike, I weaved in and out of streets baring colourful casas, wheeled my way through more parks and squares, and locked up to visit museums and learn more about this beautiful city. And just like that, a few days had passed and it was time for me to catch the bus to Oaxaca.
It was a four-hour journey and the Ado buses in Mexico are genuinely very comfortable, so the journey flew by. My only complaint being a sore neck from constantly turning to look out the window at vast plains, distant mountains and cacti galore. Before I knew it, I was walking through Oaxaca looking for my hostel, making a mental note of the bicycle rental shops on my way through. Luckily, there was more than my previous destination’s supposed sole establishment. I was ready for the following morning!
Bright and early the next day, I made a
beeline for a place I’d set eyes on the night before, a wonderful little company set right in the city centre with allinclusive mountain bike tours. I opted for an experience that covered 30km overall, with plenty of breaks from the heat and a slow-to-moderate pace advertised for peoples’ reassurance.
After passing through mountainous valleys, our first stopping point was Santa Maria del Tule, named eponymously after an astonishing 2,000-year-old tree around which the village is centred. I never thought I could stare in amazement at a tree for so long, but with a 58-metre diameter and so much history engrained in its branches, I was truly in awe.
Following on from here, my convoy and I cycled to the village of Tlacochahuaya, then Teotitlan del Valle, the latter being famed for its traditional rugs. Our bikes were then bundled into a van and we were driven to San Baltazar Guelavila where we cycled along a paved path, saw agave plantations and meandered through the mountains before tasting pure mescal (wow!) that seemed to evaporate on my tongue. All in all, a wonderful adventure on two wheels that stills brings images of vivid sunsets and breath-taking landscapes to my mind.
Maybe it was cycling in 30+ degree heat for hours, or perhaps it was the mescal followed by a winding van journey, but I was exhausted that night. And as it so happened, it was time for my next destination.
San Cristobal de las Casas is somewhere I hadn’t heard of before this trip, but it felt like a hidden gem to me. A laid back municipality with vibrant rows of houses and bustling markets. It also felt a bit cooler than where I had been so far, so the slight drop in temperature was definitely a pick-me-up. For me, that meant more reason to cycle.
And cycle is what I did. For a couple of days in a row, I embarked on two tours; one of the city and another that explored El Chorreadero and Chiapa de Corzo, the latter involving cycling alongside hectic traffic on the highway before experiencing a stunning area of waterfalls and canyons. Coming off the testing roads for a swim and a hike made me feel like a triathlete, and it was one of the most rewarding days of cycling I’ve ever had.
My vessel for these tours was a slick
Haro Double Peak 29 Trail bike with hydraulic disc brakes and lightweight alloy frame. What turned out to be quite a challenging bike ride was made easier by a top-range piece of equipment.
My last couple of days were spent on foot visiting the incredible ancient Palenque ruins and the waterfalls of Agua Azul, which was, admittedly, not as blue as it said on the brochure. Rich with memories and fully satisfied with everything up until this point, the final chapter of my tour was on the Yucatán Peninsula, which is where I travelled from here.
Fast forward a lot of bus travel later, and some questionable Spanish-dubbed onboard rom-coms, I was finally in Tulum. The eastern coast of Mexico was an instant contrast to what I had seen up until this point. I felt like I was leaving a colonial city break and entering a beach resort. The sky seemed bluer, the weather hotter and the overall attitude was very different.
I purchased as many trinkets as what felt socially acceptable and spent a couple of days lounging in the sand on some of the most pristine beaches I’d ever seen. One of my best non-bike days was spent swimming alongside sea turtles and stingrays (the latter from a safe distance, of course).
However, my next cycle tour was one of my best ones yet. A half-day adventure of the area’s local cenotes, which are natural pits or sinkholes filled with clear water – excellent for swimming and at one time a water source for Mayans. My company of choice was highly organised and very professional with a wonderful fleet of bicycles. My allocated mode of transport was a modern Alubike with 24 speeds and rolled 26” wheels, and it felt like the mountain bike of my dreams.
We were led through a gorgeous jungle trail on our bikes, stopping off at three cenotes to provide not only a photo opportunity but a massive break from the sweltering heat. Swimming in clearwater caves in Mexico was beyond fantastic, and being surrounded by lizards, palm trees, colourful flowers and people splashing about will forever stay in my memory.
It was a day that, sadly, had to end but the combined exhaustion of swimming, cycling and non-british-friendly humidity had got the better of me by the evening.
Tulum was followed by Playa Del Carmen, which is quite well known compared to some other places I visited, and you could tell immediately from getting off the bus that there was a bigger American influence. I spent a couple of days cycling to and from the beach on a weathered old bicycle that was a relaxing and pleasant journey despite the bike feeling like it had seen it all. Squeaking and creaking my way along the market streets and boardwalks, I looked out across the sea and contemplated my time in Mexico. From city to city, it is such a diverse land with something entirely new on offer in each place, and whether it’s cityscape or beachfront, I enjoyed every last moment of it.
Playa Del Carmen was a quiet end to an unforgettable trip. Tired in the best possible way, I spent my closing days lazily lapping up the sun and walking and cycling until sunset. And on that note, my flight home was ready for me. It wasn’t ‘adios’ to Mexico, rather ‘hasta luego’, as I’m certain I’ll be there again.