NATURE, CITYSCAPE AND OCEANS - MY SHORT TIME IN
MY SHORT TIME IN CANADA
Far and distant lands – does anybody remember them?
There was a time when the idea of travelling didn’t seem so complicated and, for some, daunting. As I sit here and dream about my past adventures, some of which I’ve already shared with fellow Bike-mag readers, another one springs to mind.
I spent a short while in Canada not too long ago. It’s a place famed for many things; nice people, freezing cold winters (which, luckily, I didn’t experience), beautiful nature and cosmopolitan cities. One thing I must add to that list, however, is that it’s also a wonderful cycling destination.
I don’t necessarily consider myself a hard-core cyclist, more a cycling enthusiast. By this, I mean that instead of taking my bike and riding gear with me, hopping into some Lycra and taking an amazing tour around a country (all of which sound amazing), I like to go places and rent bikes so that I can explore at a slower pace. Perhaps it’s the fact that I can’t really be bothered with taking my clunky bike around with me, or maybe it’s just that I look awful in Lycra.
Nevertheless, as I’m sure you can appreciate, I still love to cycle.
Back to the trip.
Toronto was my first experience of the True North. Admittedly, it wasn’t what I expected from Canada at all. It was like being in a mini New York City. In fact, Downtown Toronto is often used as a fake New York City in some Hollywood films!
Greeted by humungous buildings and maple leaf symbols, I was flattened by a wall of 30+ degree heat. It turns out Toronto is as extremely hot in the summer as it is shockingly cold in winter. I also noticed that there was an incredible number of people on bikes. Side by side with streetcars, and with lots of cycle lanes along the incredibly straight roads, it seemed to be bikerider’s dream.
I wasn’t surprised to discover that the city had a big selection of bike rental and tour establishments. Spoilt for choice, I opted for one that did combined tours of both the Downtown area and Toronto Island. Setting me up with a sturdy Raleigh hybrid bike, we took to the roads and cycle paths, passing the CN Tower, Dundas Square, St Lawrence Market,
Royal Ontario Museum and Rogers Centre, amongst other amazing architectural feats. In the space of three hours, we learnt a lot about the city’s history and landmarks and covered a good amount of ground.
My favourite spot on
the tour was the quirky district of Queen Street West. Packed with parks, boutiques and independent bars and cafes, I had to resist going rogue from the tour. I did, however, make a novel’s worth of mental notes of places to explore on foot the following day.
The second part of the tour was to go to Toronto Island - a wonderful park separate from the main part of the city. Departing from the ferry port at Hanlan’s Point, our boat chugged away across a stretch of Lake Ontario. Bike tied up safely, I couldn’t help but stare wide-eyed at the city’s skyline behind us. As soon as you head out towards the islands, you really get a scope of how colossal Toronto is, and just how many massive skyscrapers there are – truly North American indeed!
The island was a very nice cycling experience. Gliding alongside the water (which always makes me feel as though I’m moving faster, I can’t be the only one), my group and I circumnavigated the trees, beaches, flowers and picnic benches. Stopping for drinks and photos on a very regular basis, it was hard to believe that the throng of downtown Toronto was but a few minutes away. Yet, with the cityscape always in view, Toronto Island somehow felt so separate.
I spent the remaining few days looking into the quieter pockets of Toronto, away from its epicentre. Opting for a different rental shop, I managed to score a Cannondale Trail 8 with a Smartform C3 Alloy frame and a 7-speed drivetrain. A bike of dreams that carried me, effortlessly, to the likes of High Park (a vast, family-friendly urban green space) and Kensington Market. For the latter, think of London’s Camden Town about 15 years ago and add a dash of Stokescroft in Bristol. To anyone who’s never seen these places; it was a bit alternative.
Sunny and intense, yet chilled out, the sun set
on my time in Toronto after I spent a short while exploring what felt like a new corner each day. From food and drink to charity shops and nature, there is something for everyone in this lovely city, but now was my time to experience the west coast.
Apart from what I read in books, blogs and travel sites, I didn’t know what to expect from Vancouver. A stark contrast is what struck me initially. It felt more laid back, less hot and a bit more spacious than Toronto. Just a short journey from the airport to my accommodation revealed to me what was to come – mountains in the distance, the Pacific Ocean on the horizon and plenty of huge parks.
In my opinion, the most amazing thing about Vancouver is Stanley Park. One of the biggest, most forest-like city parks I’ve ever seen. I was eager beyond belief to get there on two wheels, alas, it was close to sunset and if there were any bike places open at that time, I would certainly be suspicious.
Luck would have it, I slept well through the night, bringing morning around nice and efficiently. Not that I’d usually wish time away, but I could hear the call of nature in the distance. It sounded a lot like seagulls and seaplanes.
The next morning came around and a temperate British Colombia summer’s day was in its early stages. Perfectly warm, fresh air and dramatic horizon lined with jagged mountains lifted my spirits and, after a quick Google search, I found my next bike rental shop.
On an easy-going Townie step-over cruiser bike with a sturdy frame and 7 speeds, I paid my fee and set off in the direction of Stanley Park. I spent half a week exploring new parts of this amazing area before I even set foot in the downtown area.
The Seawall was my first experience of Vancouver, which is a winding and diverse cycle route that goes around the edge of the park. My bike felt like it was floating as I passed trees, rode alongside the ocean and pedalled under huge bridges. Each turn seemed to represent every facet of Canada – a dash of urban backdrop but with mountains, trees and bodies of water always visible.
Whilst on the Seawall, I also discovered
some wonderful bays and beaches. Places like English Bay and Sunset Beach were a welcome relief to the rising temperature, allowing me to have a good old-fashioned British paddle. I still remember sitting at English Bay watching all the cargo ships coming into a nearby port and thinking, ironically, how far away I felt from Blighty.
The forest trails through Stanley Park were also a fantastic bike ride. Blissfully peaceful, I allowed my instincts to guide me through the trees and Totem poles, finding as many benches as I could to sit and take in the natural splendour.
On foot, I explored the city centre. Areas like Gastown with its old-timey charm and Granville Island with its industrial/ market vibe offered two completely different experiences. In what is an incredibly varied city, I was amazed by how much there was to do on bike and foot.
In my final few days, I did a whistle-stop tour of some more recommended spots. Notably, Richmond Night Market, Lynn Canyon and the super-challenging Grouse Grind are things that I will never forget. Mostly because the latter on this list had a 1.8-mile ascent with an elevation gain of 2,800 feet. I’m no mountaineer and these numbers could be relatively tiny, but it absolutely floored me. Someone told me that this is a daily exercise for some locals. Nonsense, I thought. Although, based on the speed at which fellow climbers were ascending, I suspect it is true.
Two cities, plenty of bikes and a plethora of sights and landmarks later, I was on my way home. Richer in memories and possibly in slightly better shape than when I left.
Now to go back to staring out of the window, wistfully.