TOUR GUIDE
From the Pacific Coast Highway to the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia riding in the USA is, quite rightly, a mainstay of biker bucket lists. And then there is Utah…
Riding in the USA isn’t all about Route 66 and PCH. Utah it is then…
Utah is little-known among adventure riders, yet enjoys some of the world’s most spectacular scenery. Expect endless riding on well-laid tarmac and decent dirt roads punctuated by wacky geology. From Bryce Canyon to Arches National Park and the riding in between, this country will wow and inspire you.
Enter the state on Highway 141 along the Dolores River. This tarmac route burrows through a canyon from Nucla to Gateway before turning west and crossing the Colorado-utah border. It climbs into the La Sal mountains with the odd 4000foot drop to be aware of, and there are fantastic views of the Fisher Towers rock stacks. A final winding, scenic stretch follows the Colorado River towards the off-roading mecca of Moab.
Prefer riding on dirt? The White Rim Trail is one of the most spectacular rides in Canyon Country. It ranges across the area north of the Colorado and Green Rivers in the middle of Canyonlands National Park. The road follows the river as it climbs onto high bluffs before dropping back down to the water’s edge in one great circle: 110 miles of golden willow leaves, deep blue skies and amazing red rock formations. Ride it on an adventure bike and bring a decent camera.
Natural rock sculptures are everywhere in Canyon Country. Take the 2000 stone arches just north of the town of Moab. Ride the Arches National Park Road for 37 miles of views and short hikes to the base of these statues. It’s a meandering yet easy ride for any kind of motorcycle, but expect traffic at weekends and in the high season. Arches isn’t the only spectacular national park in Utah, however. Bryce Canyon is 90 minutes west of Boulder, just south of Highway 12. Ride through the park to Rainbow Point for the best views.
Summer is 35°C hot and monsoonal storms can wash out narrow canyons. Spring rains make dirt roads difficult, but temperatures are a more manageable 15-20°C. Autumn is warm and generally dry which makes it the best season for exploring off-road. The population in this area is sparse so there are few vehicles on the roads outside the summer months and even less of a police presence. You might see a police car a day and they are always well-marked. The Burr Trail is an adventurous 67 miles of winding gravel that explores some of Utah’s most beautiful and extraordinary country. Views of the Henry Mountains, the colourfully-contorted Waterpocket Fold, the red Circle Cliffs and the appropriately-named Muley Twist Canyon. Join it from the 276 north of Bullfrog and ride to Boulder. This way you can celebrate the ride at Hell’s Backbone Grill. Choose the $29 Steelhead Trout Fillet.
Stay in Moab. Hotels here range from $90 to $170 and need reserving. Along with Boulder it’s one of the few towns in Utah with good dining. Zax Restaurant in the centre of town serves $15 all-you-can-eat pizza, and delicious Uinta Brewery Hoodoo golden ale. In recent years Utah has loosened up its drinking laws, although Mormon legislation still results in a few interesting rules. For example you can’t order a second drink until your first is finished and some restaurants don’t serve alcohol at all.
Outdoor life is king, and locals make the most of the time between sunrise and sunset. This leads to a lot of beers at 5pm and bed at 9pm. Think of it as late-
afternoon-life, instead of nightlife. Arrive early at places such as the Moab brewing house Eddie Mcstiff’s. Founded in 1991 Mcstiff’s has a good bar, live music and decent food. Try a $4.25 bottle of Polygamy Porter – its tag line: ‘why have just one’.
Time to head south. Leave Moab on Highway 191 and turn down the Indian Creek Scenic Byway. This is a super fun, twisty tarmac road past rock formations with names such as North and South Six-shooter Peak. Stop at Newspaper Rock to view the 2000-year-old petroglyphs. Follow Harts Draw as it winds its way up into the Abajo Mountains. It’s all beautiful riding and solitude. Even more remote is the Bridger Jack Basin road through the Abajos. When I first discovered this route, I rode for ten hours without seeing anyone.