Riding to Spa
Fancy riding to Spa-francorchamps? Here’s the way to do it
Valley road dramatic castle classic race circuit
From Tournai to Circuit de Spa-francorchamps, distance 263km, time 5hrs
RIDE OUT OF Tournai on the N529, pass over the E429 and quicken the tempo for the next 12 miles of smooth curves through quiet farming country. Skirt the border with Flanders, Belgium’s northern region and drop down towards Nivelles. The N534 follows the Brussels-charleroi canal which is one of the most important waterways in Belgium. Pause at the Ronquieres inclined plane, a section of canal that cuts out the need for 14 locks with an ingenious escalator-style arrangement. Helped by a 5200-tonne counterweight, the inclined plane drags a ‘chest’ of water, complete with floating 1350-tonne boat, up the incline at just under walking pace. It takes about 22 minutes to lift a boat to the top of the 1432-metre track, or 67.73 metres of vertical height. Just enough time for a relaxing mug of coffee. Visit the sloping lock between April and October, 10am to 7pm for a tour. Skirt Nivelles and Genappe and ride through the old single-lane archway at the ruined Abbaye de Villers. This Cistercian abbey was abandoned back in 1796 but has now been recreated virtually, which you immerse yourself in via the screen of a tablet you hold as you walk the grounds. It’s very impressive augmented reality that details the lives the monks led, part of which involved brewing beer. And thanks to accounting records the proportions of barley, spelt and hops used in the process are still known and the beer is being made again. Panniers filled turn onto the N93 and ride east towards Namur and its magnificent citadel. The imposing structure sits on a promontory looking out over the confluence of the Sambre and Meuse rivers and it’s readily accessible by bike. Surprisingly, the cobbles that switchback their way up the hillside are open to the public. It’s an awe-inspiring ride as the route takes a 270-degree turn around a turreted outcrop and passes back over itself an extra ten metres in the air. Turn right after the bridge, park up and gaze out over the streets below. This is a perfect place to spend a warm
Must see Mahymobiles Museum (Leuze-en-hainaut, just east of Tournai)
A sumptuous collection of automotive exotica situated just ten miles from central Tournai. Cars and bikes? Three hundred and sixteen of them, from a 1925 Alfa RLSS to a 1954 Zundapp Bella. Nose around for the 1906 Peugeot single-cylinder and the Gnome Rhone 750 XA with its wacky chassis. Address: Rue Erna 3, 7900 Leuze-en-hainaut, Belgium More Info: open March to October, Thursday and Saturday afternoons, and Sundays. Adults €8 Website: mahymobiles.be
Must ride Meuse Valley, Namur to Dinant (just south of Namur)
Ride the N947 on east side of the Meuse river when it’s drenched in late afternoon sun. Don’t leave it too late, though, as the steep valley sides can drop you into shadow long before the sun actually sets. Turn east to find the chateau at Crupet down the small-yet-smooth Rue du Redeau, or ride to Sosye on the valley-running N971 to Mettet.
summer sunset, benches provided. Spending more time in the area? Take a scenic ride south following the undulations of the Meuse to Dinant, cross the river and ride back on the other side. It’s the N947 on the east side, the N92 on the west and the return trip will take you around an hour. Escape Namur’s suburbs on the wide N90 before burrowing south on the N942 to Goyet and beyond. Here’s where the towns are left behind and the adventurous riding begins. Take a mixture of minor roads through the villages of Gesves, leafy Hamois and turn left on the N938 just after Scy. Gradually the hills close in around you until, just after Jenneret, the really twisty valley riding begins. Enjoy the curves of the N623, keep an eye out for blind bends and fallen leaves, pass through Hamoir, and rejoice in the blissful N66. Between Hamoir and Stavelot, the N66 delivers a fantastic selection of well-surfaced bends. East of the E25 the surface becomes stunningly good, begging you to lean further and guide your bike effortlessly through some really memorable chicanes. Before you know it you’ll be passing the fantastic Doux Repos Hostellerie and entering Trois-ponts. Instead of following the signs for the Spa circuit, turn left in Stavelot when the fingerboard reads ‘5 Francorchams’. This allows you to approach the circuit from the north west, along the fast and smooth N62C for a final hurrah before reaching the gates of Spa.
Must stay Hotel Doux Repos (half way between Les Forges and Trois-ponts)
If you are looking for absolute peace and tranquility after your day’s riding head for the Hotel Doux Repos off the N66. The rooms offer uninterrupted views across the sleepy valley and the evening menu is as great as the splendid wood-panelled dining room it’s served in. Of course the food is absolutely delicious and very well presented. How about potato croquettes fashioned to look like pears? To accompany the excellent food how about trying the Trois Ponts beer at €4.20 a bottle. It must be one of the best blondes in the world. Address: Haute Bodeux 34, 4983 Trois-ponts, Belgium More Info: open 18 February to 12 November, from £90 per night Website: logishotels.com
‘It’s an awe-inspiring ride as the route takes a 270-degree turn around a turreted outcrop’