Belgian Battlefields
Ride through history, from Eben-emael to Bastogne
War relics and mesmerizing museums
From Eben-emael to Bastogne distance 277km, time 5hrs
AH, THE IMPREGNABLE Eben-emael fortress, built just before the Second World War to dissuade invasion from the East. Belgium’s defensive forts hadn’t been much use in 1914 when Germany had shelled them into submission with its long-distance cannon, the 42cm Big Bertha howitzer. And so, reasoned Belgian high command, the new fortress must be made impervious to long range bombardment. Concrete was reinforced, gun turrets were less tightly packed, and ventilation was much improved. Yet despite these improvements, 86 German paratroopers were able to land in 11 gliders on the smooth surface of the fort and destroy most of its armaments in 15 minutes. See the damage they did for yourself by visiting between March and November. For more information go to fort-eben-emael.be Ride south alongside the Meuse River and then east on the wide-open N61 to Eupen. You’re now in Eupenmalmedy, the mostly German-speaking region Hitler annexed after Belgium capitulated in 1940. Turn south and blaze across the High Fens national park on the N68. Up here, close to the border, valley-carving rivers are absolutely nowhere to be seen. Pause for a delicious meal at the Mont Rigi restaurant: a fillet of duckling with raspberry sauce will costs 19 euros. Following your lunch leave your bike in the restaurant carpark and take a short walk through fenland. It’ll sharpen the senses for the descent into Malmedy.
Must ride... N89, E25 to La Roche-en-ardenne (north-east of La Roche)
Tunnelling through dense Ardennes tree cover, the N89 ties itself in knots towards La Roche. Once the road decides that it’s on a downward trajectory, there’s no stopping its relentless pursuit of the valley floor. Expect blind twists, carving turns and unreliable road surfaces. Avoid sections of glassy tarmac in the rain – they’re incredibly slippery.
Must see... La Gleize’s Royal King Tiger (just north of Trois Ponts)
It was at La Gleize that Commander SS Peiper and the remnants of the attacking German force found themselves surrounded near the end of December 1944. With no escape route for the tanks the Germans ran out of fuel and abandoned them. They left behind 135 armoured vehicles, including Royal King Tiger II #213 (above), bought from an Allied soldier by a local for a bottle of cognac.
‘A US Sherman tank is used as a park bench by teenagers’
Rove east to Bullingen and then closer to the German border to visit the Hasselpath – an area of fields and woodland still dotted with dug-outs and pillboxes from the Second World War. Fighting raged through this area multiple times, surviving emplacements being manned by both sides at points during the hostilities. The Hasselpath memorial is east off the N658 north of Krinkelt, while woodland foxholes of the 393rd Infantry can be discovered west of Germany’s Route 265 just north of Miescheid. Back in Wallonia, ride the smooth and arcing N658 south west to the town of St Vith. It’s now December 1944. Germany is preparing for its last major offensive on the western front. Its plan: to smash through light allied defences, encircle four allied armies and force the allies to negotiate a peace treaty. A quiet Western Front would mean resources could be switched east to deal with the Soviets. Over a thousand tanks and 400,000+ men took part in the German offensive over snow-clad terrain. Speed of advance was key, but it soon became obvious things weren’t moving fast enough. The battle for St Vith set the advance back four days. After furious bombing the only pre-war structure left standing was the Buchel Tower. Continue to Trois Ponts on the fantastic N62 and N68 – two roads built for cruisers, with smooth tarmac and a glut of lazy curves. The route now takes to quieter roads running towards the village of La Gleize with its Royal King Tiger tank parked outside the local museum. Half an hour further west is Manhay’s Panther tank, chained up at a roundabout in the middle of town. It’s the same story at the charming town of La Roche-en-ardenne – a British Achilles tank destroyer watches over a junction above the town centre, and a US Sherman is used as a park bench by teenagers next to the river. It’s then just a quick blast down the meandering N834 to Bastogne, where the 101st Airborne survived a siege in the winter of 1944.
Must eat at... Bistro Leo (in Bastogne)
Relax in Leo’s classically-styled bistro instead of the pricier Wagon Leo complete with train car frontage, right next door. The bistro’s at the top of the hill in central Bastogne. Order delicious €2.40 café au lait and a €13.50 floriflette – a potato dish with bacon, onions, and local cheese. Upmarket riding fuel. Address: Rue du Sablon 4/8, 6600 Bastogne, Belgium More info: wagon-leo.com