TOUR GUIDE
East of Italy across the Adriatic sea Croatia’s coast is a wonderland of superb roads and enough photo opportunities to bother the best smartphone battery
Croatia’s corrugated coastline, Roman citadels and island gems by bike.
Islands, curving tarmac, sunshine: the Croatian coastline was the backbone of former-yugoslav tourism and still is one of the best riding destinations in the Eastern Mediterranean. Avoid the main tourist season from mid-june to late August, where the area’s beauty and attractive main towns lure lines of caravans and 4x4s towing boat trailers. Plan a trip during the shoulder seasons, however, and you’ll enjoy pleasant weather and clear roads. Don’t just stick to the mainland, either. Croatia’s islands are home to townships as beautiful as the famous Dubrovnik and lively Split, yet they are much less visited.
The island of Hvar is best explored by bike. Catch the ferry in Drvenik on the mainland (six to ten times a day, around £3 for a motorcycle) and disembark in Sucuraj at the easternmost point of the island. The ensuing Route 116 is a striding barrage of turns and vistas all the way to the town of Hvar in the west. If you happen to be there in May the famous lavender fields should be blooming – a spectacle for your nose. The town of Hvar is one of the most picturesque municipalities on the entire Croatian coast and also boasts a semblance of island nightlife. There are plenty of good restaurants and chic lounge clubs adorning the cobblestone streets that embrace the harbour. Just like the rest of Croatia, prices for accommodation can vary a lot. Avoiding the high season can save you 50% and consider self-catering options through Airbnb, and similar websites.
Back on the mainland, search out the E65 from Senj to Karlobag. Almost entirely twisty, this coast road delivers superb views over the nearby islands of Rab and Pag, so take your camera. A new surface also means racetrack-smooth tarmac and wide, well-lined lanes. Just keep an eye out for cars in hard-to-spot entrances that lead to a multitude of tiny beaches. Once you reach Karlobag you’ll probably need food and there are some great BBQ joints near the beach and small harbour. Croats are big on meat, especially grilled pork. Usually the portions are very generous and the prices very fair. Expect to pay as little as £9 for a good, filling meal.
More brilliant coast roads can be found further into the Kvarner Gulf. Ride Route 66 from Opatija to Plomin. The first section trickles through villages, past charming seaside villas reminiscent of Habsburg Empire architecture, but soon bursts onto a marvellous snake of asphalt which again has excellent grip. The ride culminates at the Hotel Flanona and viewpoint, so stop and sip a hot espresso on the terrace overlooking the Adriatic. Be aware of the speed limit on the 66 though, because Croatian police are keen on fining enthusiastic riders.
The Istrian Peninsula to the north bulges out into the Adriatic Sea between Rijeka and Italy’s Trieste. The area around Premantura, a town on the southern tip, is protected, but it still allows access by motorized vehicle. After passing the town you buy a daily ticket for the area known as ‘Lower Kamenjak and the Medulin Archipelago’ (20 Kuna, or £2) and you can ride several dirt roads leading to various coves. The very end of the road brings you to Cape Kamenjak. Hiding among high foliage is a gem – the Safari Bar – this fantastic beach bar serves plenty of refreshments and you should be sure to try the grilled squid sandwich.
If you like seafood Croatia is second to none. Anything from Italian-inspired seafood pasta or risotto to grilled sea bass
and delicious Dalmatian stuffed squid. One of my favourite fish restaurants is Astoria on the island of Rab. Order the pasta with clams in white wine sauce and eat it on the terrace overlooking the marina. In every way this dish is sublime, even for my pastapicky Italian palate.
Ride inland for dual-sport bike-friendly dusty mountain passes and off-road challenges. Find the small mountain road that meanders through the Velebit National Park. Leave the main coastal road in Sveti Juraj just south of Senj and climb the switchbacks towards Biljevine and Krasno Polje. Always scan the road surface – wood or patches of gravel washed down from the slope are not uncommon – and take time to look back at the magnificent view. You won’t regret it.