Buying MV Agusta’s F4 1000
MV’S F4 became a full litre superbike in 2005. Smoking hot looks and steaming hot engine temps. But what a fabulous thing…
SWAPPING COOLANT
Start with a paddock stand at the rear and front wheel on a bench. Then pump the bench up until the bike’s sat at a 3540° angle. Run the engine, fill the radiator and squeeze the pipes to remove the air. Do not fill the coolant tank, even to the ‘minimum’ marking. It was bought in from another manufacturer and the markings aren’t MV’S. The tank must remain empty with the water just covering the outlet from the header tank. As the coolant heats up, the water expands and fills the space – just like an expansion chamber.
REAR BRAKE
Heat from the engine boils the brake fluid – MV’S bane since the 750. Also, the pipe that goes to the master cylinder gets kinked so fluid doesn’t drain through when needed by the MC. Un-kink the pipe and bleed the brake properly: unmount the caliper, raise it as high as possible and tap with a spanner before bleeding. Bleed in sessions, tapping in between. Expect it to take half-an-hour.
OIL FILTERS
Servicing an F4 at home? Use genuine oil filters, not pattern ones. Some pattern O-rings are round instead of square and can’t take as much pressure as the genuine part. Pattern ones are £5, but buying genuine only costs £10. Screw them on to 24Nm. You’ll always get a clamp with a genuine filter. Make sure you fit this, as the clamp stops the filter unscrewing itself.
CAM CHAIN TENSIONER
Pre-2008 tensioner’s through F4 1000s the spring centre don’t to keep of have the it cam straight. a rod chain running As a result it bends while it puts pressure on the tensioner. The cam chain won’t be tensioned properly, so it’ll rattle on the overrun. Check service history as most bikes have already had it fixed. Don’t stress if it rattles – engines are bomb-proof. We’ve never had a failure.
PLASTIC FANS
Early F4 1000 radiator fan blades are made of plastic, which warps in the heat from the engine: the F4’s fairings are beautiful but MV didn’t put enough air ducts in them and heat can’t escape quickly. Metal fans are available and most used F4s have them fitted. A set will cost £66.
SERVICING
F4 1000s before the short-stroke Corsa Corta engine share the same service intervals: £300 minor at 3800 miles, £1020-£1320 major at 7500 depending on age. Checking valve clearances on the major means wrestling with the rocker cover. Drain coolant, remove seat, tank, radiator, airbox, injectors. Support the engine, remove front and top engine bolts and pivot the frame up and over the back of the bike to reveal the rocker cover.
HEAVY RADIATOR
When the F4 moved from the 750 to the 1000, MV used a giant radiator to help remove the excess heat. Because it’s so heavy, the bracket that holds the top of the radiator to the frame can crack. A new kit from MV gives you a different radiator and mount, and most bikes have already been modified. Bikes from 2008 on come with a second radiator to increase cooling. Cool it down more with a set of Samco hoses: £135.62 at racebikebitz.com
SNATCHY THROTTLE?
If your F4 R’s or 312’s engine hunts at tickover and your throttle gives on/off thrust like a switch, it’s because your F4’s air correction factor is set wrong. Do not touch the air bypass screws, as the ACF is adjusted electronically. The screws should always be set at three turns out. Use a Texa diagnostic tool to set the ACF at between 0 and +/-1.5 each way. As part of a major service, sorting the air correction factor takes 45 minutes.
NO PRESSURE WASHERS!
Rear drive hub bearings on early F4 1000s are likely to seize if water ingress washes out grease. Early onset sounds like a low rumble when riding. Wiggle the wheel and feel for any movement. If there are flakes of aluminium around the bearing carrier, then it needs replacing. Tamburini’s MV rear drive unit was based on Ducati’s, but made bigger and stronger. That means they’ve never had a safety recall. However, you must service them properly.