BUYING STREET TRIPLE 675

If, hypothetically of course, we could only ride one bike for ever more the truth is it would be Triumph’s Street Triple. No matter the incarnation…

If you could ride only one bike, forevermore, this would be it.

THE BEST THING YOU CAN DO IS…

It’s not a glamourous mod but fitting a mudguard extender is the best thing you can do for a Street Triple. This £20 piece of plastic will protect your exhaust heads, radiator and head races, preventing problems in the future. R&G do a decent, easy-to-fit one.

THE FAKE AFTERMARKET

Fake aftermarket parts from China are an issue, especially adjustable brake and clutch levers. They look identical to genuine Triumph levers – made by Pazzo and TUV tested – and they even have Triumph laseretched on them. And they cost £20 rather than £150. They could cause problems with clutch actuation or the cut-out switch, however, they could also fail and leave you without a front brake.

SERVICING

The basic – every 6000 miles or annually – service costs around £125. The major service comes at 12,000 and is a huge job requiring removal of front and rear ends to allow access to head races and suspension linkages. Then there’s the valve clearances, throttle body balancing, replacement spark plugs, oil and filter. It’s a full day’s labour and about £200 in parts for which a Triumph dealer will charge £800+. The 24,000-mile service includes all of the above, except the front end remains in place and the forks are removed to have the oil replaced.

STOLEN BIKES

The Street Triple is one of the most stolen bikes in the UK. Early models are quite easy for thieves to hot wire, and because they are so light brazen criminals can simple lift them up and into a van. Although many stolen bikes get broken for parts, quite a few end up on the used market. So, a HPI check prior to purchase is vital. That said, there’s nothing necessarily wrong with buying a bike that’s been listed as an attempted theft just so long as any damage has been repaired properly. Use the bike’s past to negotiate £500-£1000 off the asking price.

BATTERY

Replace the battery every two to three years, otherwise you’ll suffer many starting issues. I only recommend the original Yuasa lead-acid unit, part number YTX9/BS – £30 from Halfords. Don’t go for a fashionable, lightweight lithium-polymer battery – the charging system wasn’t designed for Li-po so you’ll have problems.

FRONT WHEEL

The UK’S pothole infestation has much to answer for, including bent motorcycle wheels, and the Street Triple’s wheels are fairly lightweight so damage easily. There might not be any obvious damage to the rim but vibration through the steering on a test ride could indicate unseen issues. Raise the front wheel and spin it to detect run-out or wobble.

SNATCHY THROTTLE

Fuelling should be beautifully smooth, so if the throttle’s suddenly twitchy the throttle bodies probably need balancing. This should be done every 6000 miles, but it gets overlooked on older bikes as it takes a fair bit of work. I set up the throttle free-play then balance the bodies which allows the fuelling system to self-adapt properly. The result is perfect fuelling pick-up on small throttle openings.

HOSE CLIPS

Early Street Triples, what we refer to as the MKI from 2007 to 2012, came with low quality hose clips that work loose. These clips should be tightened at every service to prevent leaks. The MKII, from 2013 onwards with the low-slung exhaust, has self-tightening clips that don’t require as much attention.

RADIATOR CAP

If a bike’s leaking coolant under pressure it doesn’t necessarily mean a head gasket has gone. The rad cap is prone to failing on older bikes which causes coolant to escape once the system’s pressurised. The rubber seals in the cap have a short lifespan and need replacing every few years. Don’t worry though, it’s only £10 for a genuine replacement.

CHARGING SYSTEM

Bikes built between 2007 and 2010 were recalled due to a faulty regulator-rectifier. The upgraded unit featured two plugs rather than a pair of moulded leads, however, even these are getting old now. With the engine running use a multimeter to check there’s at least 14v.

TICKY TOP END

Owners sometimes complain about a ticking or rattle from the engine’s top end. Often it’s down to natural engine noise but it can come from the automatic chain tensioner just before it clicks onto another tooth, which is part of its normal operation. No need to fit a manual chain tensioner.