If, hy­po­thet­i­cally of course, we could only ride one bike for ever more the truth is it would be Tri­umph’s Street Triple. No mat­ter the in­car­na­tion…


If you could ride only one bike, forever­more, this would be it.


It’s not a glam­ourous mod but fit­ting a mud­guard ex­ten­der is the best thing you can do for a Street Triple. This £20 piece of plas­tic will pro­tect your ex­haust heads, ra­di­a­tor and head races, pre­vent­ing prob­lems in the fu­ture. R&G do a de­cent, easy-to-fit one.


Fake af­ter­mar­ket parts from China are an is­sue, es­pe­cially ad­justable brake and clutch levers. They look iden­ti­cal to gen­uine Tri­umph levers – made by Pazzo and TUV tested – and they even have Tri­umph laseretched on them. And they cost £20 rather than £150. They could cause prob­lems with clutch ac­tu­a­tion or the cut-out switch, how­ever, they could also fail and leave you with­out a front brake.


The ba­sic – ev­ery 6000 miles or an­nu­ally – ser­vice costs around £125. The ma­jor ser­vice comes at 12,000 and is a huge job re­quir­ing re­moval of front and rear ends to al­low ac­cess to head races and sus­pen­sion link­ages. Then there’s the valve clear­ances, throt­tle body bal­anc­ing, re­place­ment spark plugs, oil and fil­ter. It’s a full day’s labour and about £200 in parts for which a Tri­umph dealer will charge £800+. The 24,000-mile ser­vice in­cludes all of the above, ex­cept the front end re­mains in place and the forks are re­moved to have the oil re­placed.


The Street Triple is one of the most stolen bikes in the UK. Early mod­els are quite easy for thieves to hot wire, and be­cause they are so light brazen crim­i­nals can sim­ple lift them up and into a van. Al­though many stolen bikes get bro­ken for parts, quite a few end up on the used mar­ket. So, a HPI check prior to pur­chase is vi­tal. That said, there’s noth­ing nec­es­sar­ily wrong with buy­ing a bike that’s been listed as an at­tempted theft just so long as any dam­age has been re­paired prop­erly. Use the bike’s past to ne­go­ti­ate £500-£1000 off the ask­ing price.


Re­place the bat­tery ev­ery two to three years, oth­er­wise you’ll suf­fer many start­ing is­sues. I only rec­om­mend the orig­i­nal Yuasa lead-acid unit, part num­ber YTX9/BS – £30 from Hal­fords. Don’t go for a fash­ion­able, light­weight lithium-poly­mer bat­tery – the charg­ing sys­tem wasn’t de­signed for Li-po so you’ll have prob­lems.


The UK’S pot­hole in­fes­ta­tion has much to an­swer for, in­clud­ing bent mo­tor­cy­cle wheels, and the Street Triple’s wheels are fairly light­weight so dam­age eas­ily. There might not be any ob­vi­ous dam­age to the rim but vi­bra­tion through the steer­ing on a test ride could in­di­cate un­seen is­sues. Raise the front wheel and spin it to de­tect run-out or wob­ble.


Fu­elling should be beau­ti­fully smooth, so if the throt­tle’s sud­denly twitchy the throt­tle bod­ies prob­a­bly need bal­anc­ing. This should be done ev­ery 6000 miles, but it gets over­looked on older bikes as it takes a fair bit of work. I set up the throt­tle free-play then bal­ance the bod­ies which al­lows the fu­elling sys­tem to self-adapt prop­erly. The re­sult is per­fect fu­elling pick-up on small throt­tle open­ings.


Early Street Triples, what we re­fer to as the MKI from 2007 to 2012, came with low qual­ity hose clips that work loose. Th­ese clips should be tight­ened at ev­ery ser­vice to pre­vent leaks. The MKII, from 2013 on­wards with the low-slung ex­haust, has self-tight­en­ing clips that don’t re­quire as much at­ten­tion.


If a bike’s leak­ing coolant un­der pres­sure it doesn’t nec­es­sar­ily mean a head gas­ket has gone. The rad cap is prone to fail­ing on older bikes which causes coolant to es­cape once the sys­tem’s pres­surised. The rub­ber seals in the cap have a short life­span and need re­plac­ing ev­ery few years. Don’t worry though, it’s only £10 for a gen­uine re­place­ment.


Bikes built be­tween 2007 and 2010 were re­called due to a faulty reg­u­la­tor-rec­ti­fier. The up­graded unit fea­tured two plugs rather than a pair of moulded leads, how­ever, even th­ese are get­ting old now. With the en­gine run­ning use a mul­ti­me­ter to check there’s at least 14v.


Own­ers some­times com­plain about a tick­ing or rat­tle from the en­gine’s top end. Often it’s down to nat­u­ral en­gine noise but it can come from the au­to­matic chain ten­sioner just be­fore it clicks onto an­other tooth, which is part of its nor­mal op­er­a­tion. No need to fit a man­ual chain ten­sioner.

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