TOUR GUIDE
This Spanish archipelago mixes volcanic rock cliffs, sand dunes, rich forest and thousands of curves. And it’s a year-round riding destination…
The Canary Islands offers year round riding. To Stansted…
The Canary Islands are just a 4.5 hour flight from the UK. They sit 60 miles off the coast of Morocco under northern trade winds and are warmed by the Gulf Stream, which means year-round sun; expect 29°C highs in summer and mild 13°C lows in February. All of which means near-perfect motorcycling weather, all year round. As for the roads, they are amazing with incredible views over seven different islands. Great value board and lodging and cheap flights too.
Gran Canaria is the most diverse of the Canaries, even though it’s just 602 square miles big (Great London is 974 square miles). Gran Canaria is home to the capital city of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, epic black-rock cliffs, a leafy-green caldera and there’s hardly a straight road in the place. A highway eases travel around the east and north coasts, but inland roads are likely to restrict you to your bike’s first three gears. Listen out for local cars beeping as they approach blind corners, keep tight to the right-hand-side of the road and don’t overtake unless you have room on the road to abort: more often than not there’ll be a rock face on one side, and a sheer drop on the other. Keep to these rules, and you can ride right next to the Atlantic Ocean, lose yourself in the north’s pine forest, see amazing rocky mountains to the west, kick up dust on the sand dunes of the south, and climb to the island’s summit – Pico de Las Nieves – all in just one day.
Three small islands lie out west. They are much quieter and less touristy, but the riding is still spectacular. We call La Gomera the circuit of the Canaries: fantastic roads with brilliant, flowing corners and almost perfect surfaces. You can pretty much ride them all in a day. La Palma is the best island for stargazing. There’s very little light pollution out here, and the island has the biggest telescope in the world. You can ride to it on the wriggly LP-4. The smallest island is El Hierro. It’s quiet, tranquil and seldom visited.
Northern Gran Canaria is renowned for its stupendous coastline. Ride the 35-mile GC-200 between Agaete and Mogan to discover the epic west coast, with its famous Dragon’s Tail cliffs that fall away into the ocean. You’ll spot Tenerife across the water. The second part of the route is much wider and faster-flowing as the road turns inland. Look out for the Mirador de Pinos De Gáldar for another great view. Head here and you will often end up above the clouds. It’s just off the GC-75 between Moya and Artenara – my favourite road, now with asphalt!
Visit in February for a month long carnival, but village parties happen all year round. Locals eat late: it’s normal to meet friends for dinner at 10pm. They also love picnics and there are many places called ‘Zona Recreativa’ where you’ll find firestones to use for barbecues. Food is Spanish in style. You’ll find plenty of tapas and local specialities such as ‘papas arrugadas con mojo’ (wrinkled potatoes with a green sauce) and ‘ropa vieja’ (pulled beef). I had the best steak in my life at a small family-run restaurant called Casa Brito just off the GC-810. Heading to the capital? Eat amazing tapas at Tasca Galileo and dine on the beach promenade at Bodegon Pachichi – an authentic local place with the best mix of value and quality in this part of town. Daily menus are £8 including drink and dessert, and a fine dinner should cost £18.
Road surfaces are good enough for any motorcycle, but lighter and smaller bikes
provide the most fun. They’re the ones nimble enough to take on the islands’ many tight corners. In fact, you’ll only manage 150-200 miles per day because of the huge number of corners. Head to Tenerife for fewer switchbacks and a faster average speed. It has the busiest traffic in the Canaries, but only in the tourist-heavy southern part.
You must ride Gran Canaria’s GC-60 from Cruz de Tejeda to Maspalomas. First, fill up on coffee at Tejeda’s biker stop café. Then follow the road to San Bartolome de Tirajana. There are gobsmacking views including the Roque Nublo, a 67-metre high volcanic rock. Past Fataga, the GC-60 follows a valley south towards the dunes in Maspalomas. Stop at Molino de Agua for tasty local food and a swim in their pool.