GLORIOUS RIDE
In the south west for the Atlantic Way, that’s the A39.
he Atlantic Way, or the A39 as it’s known on maps, is a nearly 200 mile-long A-road running from Bath down to Falmouth in Cornwall. But the interesting bit for us riders is the 140-mile stretch from Bridgwater, Somerset, across the coastline of Exmoor overlooking the Bristol Channel into Devon. Then following the coast down through Barnstaple and Bideford, into Cornwall, through Wadebridge and meeting up with the A30 on the far side of Bodmin. Sounds complicated, but it’s not. Although the first few miles between Minehead and Bridgwater can be busy, once into the historic village of Porlock the trac disappears and you’re left to your own devices.
After a cream tea for fortification compose yourself for the ride up the super-steep gradient of Porlock Hill (a couple of dramatic hairpins make this a tricky road for novices). Once out of the tunnel of trees, you’re on the roof of Exmoor, winding fantastically along the cliff edge next to wild ponies and heather. It’s a brilliant view across the Bristol Channel into South Wales. Next, the A39 drops steeply down Countisbury Hill into Lynmouth; another quaint village also known as Little Switzerland because, with white-painted hotels and houses built
Tºafter a few days on the Atlantic Way take a break in St Ives. Ice cream fans head for Moomaid or Willy Waller. For the best coffee it’s Yallah. For something a bit stronger try the 12th century Sloop Inn. And for the best pasty take the B3306 out of town to the Geevor Tin mine cafe, nr St Just.
The Atlantic Way: 200 miles of biking brilliance down Cornwall way
into the steep, wooded hillsides, it looks a bit Swiss. Then it’s up and away passing between high hedgerows, alongside rivers and climbing up through woods and fields, into Barnstaple. Ride through the town then pick up the Atlantic Way again for a long, leisurely roll towards the south western tip of the country, the sea ever-present to your throttle side.
Every right turn is an excuse to dive off the A39 to places such as Clovelly for donkeys and Bude, the site of the Cornish Grand Prix at Davidstow – F1 races were held there from 1952 to 1955 though you could count on one hand the real F1 cars entered. The lap record was set by a Connaught driven by Sir Leslie Marr in 1955. Then there’s Tintagel Castle where you’ll find yourself time travelled back hundreds of years. Although, be warned, you do need to be a bit fit for the climbing involved here.
The A39 comes to a momentary stop at the A30 south of St Columb Major, where most will head off for St Ives or Land’s End – but a few miles further on it re-emerges and takes off again, heading further south to Falmouth and yet more exploring. You could build an entire biking holiday around just riding the Atlantic Way. Recommended.