Birding Orkney
It may not immediately spring to mind as a birdwatching destination but the opportunities in Kirkwall are endless
David Lindo on what he calls “an underestimated urban birder’s paradise”
Orkney and urban are two words that should have no place being together. They are probably as diametrically opposed as you could possibly get. But despite that, urbanity does exist on Orkney in the shape of Kirkwall, the archipelago’s capital. The term ‘capital’ is, in full honesty, probably a little bit of an overclaim. ‘Settlement’ would be a better description of Kirkwall, with its population a little more than 9,000. But for those looking for an urban birding fix before exploring the more familiar parts of Orkney, there is plenty to keep you busy.
Wideford Hill, situated just to the west of Kirkwall, affords great views over the capital. While viewing the Kirkwall skyline, if your imagination will allow you to see it in that way, there is a good chance for also observing a quartering Hen Harrier during the summer months. Red Grouse are also in the area, plus search the fields for Lapwing, Curlew and ever-present Redshank. Meanwhile, just outside Kirkwall itself, you could do well to pay Hatston Pier a visit. It is Orkney’s largest commercial pier and a good place to look for sea-ducks. During the winter, on a good day you could witness 1,000-plus Eider, along with hundreds of Long-tailed Ducks, up to 50 Great Northern Divers and tens of Velvet Scoters. Scan carefully, as you may be lucky enough to uncover a much rarer Surf Scoter. A short stroll south along the coastline and you will find yourself in Kirkwall Harbour and Bay. If your visit is during the breeding season, you will be treated to legions of hunting Arctic and Common Terns. Once, a magnificent Sperm Whale swam into the harbour where it spent some time, much to the delight of hundreds of Orcadians who came to see it. The harbour area is also a great place for Black Guillemots, or Tysties, as they are locally known, as well as the other regular British auks: Guillemot, Razorbill and Puffin. At the nearby Pickaquoy Centre, a multi-use leisure centre, Sandwich Terns form a roost every August on its playing fields. At the opposite southern side of Kirkwall Harbour lies Scapa Bay. Winter seems to be the best time to position yourself on the pier. It’s a great vantage point for auks, including Little Auks that can be very close to the pier after storms. Slavonian Grebes are possible, along with all three regular species of diver. Both species of godwit are regularly seen along the beach, intermingling with Sanderlings. Best of all, Orcas can be observed in the bay, especially from the pier. If you are heading to Scapa Bay during the breeding season, be sure to circle Scapa Roundabout a couple of times to see if Britain’s craziest Oystercatchers have chosen to nest on the roundabout’s pebbly surface.
Lord knows how they get their chicks off the island without being run over by the circling traffic! Muddisdale is also on the outskirts of town. The area features a wood that was planted as part of the island’s Millennium Tree Planting Project. It clearly has provided dividends for the folk that watch over it, as it is a good spot for passerines. Lesser Redpolls are regular and can be seen displaying while warblers pass through on migrations. Redwing and Fieldfare, their fellow winter travelling companions, can also be encountered. The Willows is another wooded area good for a spot of birding. There is a large and noisy rookery here, plus it is also the site to find Great Spotted Woodpecker, Treecreeper and Sparrowhawk. Dipper is also a featured bird here, as is the Grey Wagtail. Indeed, this site is the best in Orkney to find this riparian specialist. Perhaps the most interesting of Kirkwall’s urban sites is Peedie Sea, which is often misunderstood as being called ‘PDC’ by non-orcadians. To explain, Peedie is the Orkney word for small and this site certainly fits that bill. It used to be a lot bigger but it was filled in on its east side and had large parts of Kirkwall built on it. Today, it is two pools with little or no shoreline vegetation that can be walked around within half an hour. But despite its small size and lack of cover, it is a site with a record for attracting great species. The usual fare here includes Eider and attendant Black-headed, Common and Herring Gulls. However, it attracts annual Little and Mediterranean Gulls plus both whitewingers (Glaucous and Iceland Gulls). It is a good venue for White Wagtails during April, and has had regional rarities such as Little Ringed Plover, Garganey and national scarcities like Pectoral Sandpiper and a Red-rumped Swallow back in 2017. Most years see displaying Goldeneye and Red-breasted Merganser, while Whooper Swan and Long-tailed Duck can make appearances during the winter. High tide also brings in roosting waders with Dunlin, Knot and Turnstone heading the cast along with Purple Sandpiper. So, all in all, Kirkwall is an underestimated urban birder’s paradise. Among its regular breeders are House Martin, Chiffchaff, Rock Pipit, Lesser Redpoll and Raven. The capital has experienced Waxwing invasions and also hosted a White’s Thrush in 2016. So, before you rush off to the more famous birding sites within Orkney (North Ronaldsay for example), spare some time for potentially rich urban birding within this king of settlements.
Thanks to: Steve Sankey, Orkney Wildlife Tour Guide: orcadianwildlife.co.uk Tim Dean, Nature Watch Orkney (author of The Orkney Book of Birds and The Orkney book Of Wild Flowers) Sites.google.com/site/naturewatchorkney