National Treasure
Head to one of Britain’s newest national parks for breathtaking scenery and wonderful birdlife
Spend some time in Britain’s newest national park for some great birdwatching opportunities
The 15th and newest member of Britain’s national park family, the South Downs National Park came into being in 2010. Covering more than 600 square miles, it stretches for 70 miles from eastern Hampshire, through the hills of West Sussex, to the white chalk cliffs of East Sussex. The park is in one of the most densely populated parts of the country and, in contrast to other ‘wilder’ national parks, it contains a high proportion of farmland – about 85% of the park. The national park covers the chalk hills of the South Downs (which on the English Channel coast form the white cliffs of the Seven Sisters and Beachy Head) and a substantial part of a separate physiographic region, the western Weald, with its heavily wooded sandstone and clay hills and vales.
On the western edge of the national park, close to the heart of historic Winchester in Hampshire, lies HIWWT Winnall Moors – a picturesque patchwork of wildflower rich meadow, pasture and woodland, with a chalk stream winding through its heart. One can follow the Water Vole trail, which leads from
Winchester city centre into the reserve. Look out for these charismatic little mammals or listen out for the distinctive ‘plop’ of one dropping into the water as one follows the path along the River Itchen. During the spring, this nature reserve really comes to life – Chiffchaffs and Sedge and Reed Warblers sing at full volume, while Marsh Marigold, Cuckooflower and Yellow Iris adorn the meadow, like jewels in the crown of England’s ancient capital. Did Alfred the Great wander here?
Remarkable trees
The 400 acres of Kingley Vale NNR near Chichester in West Sussex contains the greatest Yew forest in Western Europe, with more than 30,000 trees, as well as chalk grassland, mixed Ash, Hawthorn, Pedunculate Oak and Holly woodland, scrub and chalk heath. The forest contains Yews as much as two millennia old, making them some of the oldest living organisms in Britain.
Their survival is remarkable because most ancient Yews across Europe were felled after the 14th Century, being the preferred material for the staves of English longbows. In 1472, with the increasing popularity of the longbow, the English government enacted a ‘yew tax’ of four ‘bowestaffs’ for every cask of wine unloaded at an English harbour.
This sparked a rush for ancient Yews across Europe, decimating the forests. Kingley Vale is one of the few major stands remaining; most Yews elsewhere are solitary trees or small stands. There are commanding views from the top. More
than 50 species of birds are to be found, yet only half a dozen species breed in the Yew woodland.
The 65-acre WWT Arundel reserve is situated at the foot of the Offham Hangar, part of the Arun Valley, and holds lakes, wader scrapes and reedbed. Kingfisher and all three resident British woodpeckers are found year round. Nesting Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Redshank, Common Tern, Hobby, Peregrine, Cetti’s, Sedge and Reed Warblers provide interest in summer; while winter sees Wigeon, Teal, Water Rail, Cetti’s Warbler, Reed Bunting and occasionally roosting Bewick’s Swan. Other notable flora and fauna include Bee Orchid, Smooth and Palmate Newts, Grass Snake, Water Shrew and half a dozen species of bat. One of the highlights of the captive wildfowl at the centre is the beautiful and threatened Nene – the rarest goose in the world and the state bird of Hawaii.
Also situated in the Arun Valley, RSPB Pulborough Brooks, purchased as derelict agricultural land in 1989, is a mixed habitat of lowland wet grassland (wet meadows and ditches), restored heathland, hedgerows, scrub and woodland. The River Arun floods in winter, providing a rich habitat for wildfowl and waders. A circular trail leads from the visitor information centre around the reserve, taking in four hides and three observation areas.
The 116-acre Castle Hill NNR near Brighton in East Sussex is one of the finest examples of ancient, wildflower rich, chalk grassland sites in the country. Thirty one butterfly species have been recorded, including Silver-spotted Skipper and Small, Chalkhill and Adonis Blues. Birds include Blackcap, Whitethroat, Dunnock, Linnet and Yellowhammer. Sparrowhawk, Red Kite, Buzzard, Kestrel and Peregrine have also been recorded.
Chalk grassland
Dominating the easterly skyline of the historic town of Lewes, the SWT Malling Down is a superb chalk grassland and scrub reserve that is a must for all
lepidopterists. One of the delights here is to sit on the chalk grassland and wait for the brilliant Adonis Blue to come sailing by. Between May and mid-june and again from early August to mid-september one will find the male on short, warm slopes. The females are brown and far less conspicuous than the sky blue males, but they can both be identified by the distinctive black lines that cross the white on the fringes of their wings.
The 180 acres of Lullington Heath NNR, west of Eastbourne, contain two nationally uncommon habitats – grazed chalk downland and chalk heath. The latter formerly covered most of the site, but scrub took over much of it after myxomatosis almost wiped out the Rabbit population in the 1950s. The chalk downland is rich in flowering plants and the mixed scrub, gorse and rough grassland provide valuable habitats for invertebrates and birds. Summer brings breeding Turtle Dove, Nightjar, Nightingale and a diverse range of grassland and scrub nesting species. Passage migrants include Ring Ouzel, Redstart and Wheatear.
Raptors, including Hen Harrier, and Woodcock feature in winter. More than 250 types of plant grow here. Botanists will enjoy such things as Gorse, Ling and Bell Heather on the chalk heath, as well as several orchid species in the grassland. Butterflies subsequently thrive.
With fantastic views of the famous Seven Sisters, the National Trust’s Cuckmere Valley is of interest year round, from overwintering wildfowl to vibrant wild flowers in summer.
Cradle Valley is a wonderful example of this species-rich chalk grassland, attracting rare and colourful butterflies and plants in summer. In 1836 a white horse was cut into the chalk on the steep scarp and it remains a popular natural attraction.
More than 200 species of bird have been recorded, many of which breed in the area, including Kestrel and Sky Lark. The Cuckmere River is valuable to migrants such as Ring Ouzel and Redstart. One may also see Little Egret and flocks of Wigeon and Lapwing. A good way to explore the park is to strike off into the countryside on the South Downs Way, which rises and dips more than 100 miles along the chalk uplands between the city of Winchester and the spectacular cliffs at Beachy Head and offers the south-east’s finest walks. If undertaken in its entirety, the bridle path is best traversed from west to east, taking advantage of the prevailing wind, Eastbourne’s better transport services and accommodation and the psychological appeal of ending at the sea. Steyning, the halfway point, marks a transition between predominantly wooded sections and more exposed chalk uplands. The town church, with its Norman carvings and Renaissance reredos, is well worth a visit. The attractive and historic Chequer Inn in the town is recommended. There are visitor centres in East Sussex at the Seven Sisters County Park and at Beachy Head and in Hampshire at the Queen Elizabeth County Park.
The South Downs National Park Authority website is another useful source of information about the area.
Visit: southdowns.gov.uk