COUNTY KERRY
Exploring this rural idyll promises lovely landscapes and brilliant birdwatching, writes Ed Hutchings
Kerry has been making visitors’ romantic dreams of Ireland come true since the 18th Century, when the grandeur of the lakes and mountains around Killarney first came to widespread attention. Encompassing the highest range in the country, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, the landscape is magnificent. Most of the million tourists who come to Kerry every year stick rigidly to Killarney and the Ring of Kerry, the scenic drive around the Iveragh Peninsula, so it’s easy to avoid the crowds.
The Iveragh itself is about 45 by 20 miles, with plenty of tracks across its rugged hinterland and coastal branch roads, such as the Ring of Skellig, to explore. The small scale, but intriguing attractions, of Valentia Island and Caherdaniel, perched on a scenic hillside above a great beach, should be enough to tempt you to spend at least a night out here. Skellig Michael, off the end of the peninsula, is one of the most remarkable hermitages in the world and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and remains the ultimate place to get away from it all.
Kerry’s other peninsula, Dingle, experienced its own minor visitor boom on the release of David Lean’s film Ryan’s Daughter, in 1970. It’s still nothing like as touristy as the Ring, and offers a jagged landscape of stark mountains and spectacular beaches, an especially rich heritage of early Christian sites, and a fine, all-round base in Dingle town. Kerry has maintained a strong sense of independence, and is one of the least urbanised counties in Ireland, with a sweet, country lilt to the accent.
Important wetland site
The large Shannon and Fergus estuarine complex in the north consists of islands, saltmarshes, mudflats, raised saltmarsh and wet meadows. It encompasses the River Fergus estuary from Clarecastle (where it becomes tidal) to the junction with the Shannon Estuary, and includes the estuary inland as far as Limerick.
This is one of the most important sites in Ireland for wintering and migrating waterfowl, supporting Brent Goose, Whooper Swan, Scaup, Golden Plover, Curlew, Bar-tailed and Black-tailed Godwits, Knot, Dunlin and Redshank in numbers of international importance.
A further 13 species winter in numbers of national importance, including Greylag Goose, Shelduck, Shoveler, Wigeon, Pintail, Teal, Lapwing and Greenshank. Peregrine breed nearby.
The large, shallow Tralee Bay on the north coast of Kerry, includes intertidal areas at the mouth of the River Lee and at Barrow Harbour. Some protection is given to the Lee Estuary by Derrymore Island, a spit formed of shingle ridges, while Barrow Harbour is protected by land with only a small inlet open to the sea. North of Barrow Harbour, the site encompasses a large, sandy, intertidal inlet, sand dunes and beach, which extend as far as Akeragh Lough. This is an important wetland, with internationally significant numbers of wintering waterfowl such as Brent Goose and Scaup. Several other species winter in nationally significant numbers including Teal, Common Scoter, Lapwing and Golden Plover, while Great Northern
Globally significant islands
Bar-tailed Godwit Diver, Bar-tailed Godwit and Dunlin are also found.
Lough Gill is situated on the Magharees peninsula in Tralee Bay. It’s a very shallow coastal lagoon, with a modified inlet and sluice gate, draining into the bay. The lagoon is fringed by extensive reedbeds and bordered by dunes, dune grassland and machair on its northern side, while intensive farmland borders most of its southern side. Regrettably, the dune system has been modified by golf course development, but the lagoon is a key wintering site for Bewick’s and Whooper Swans.
The Magharee Islands, comprising a group of six islands and several additional islets and shallow reefs, are just off the northern end of the Castlegregory peninsula. The largest islands, Illauntannig and Illaunimmil, were inhabited in the past, and are still grazed by sheep and cattle.
The islands are of global significance for their breeding seabird colonies of Shag and Lesser Black-backed Gull, as well as Little and Arctic Terns. Other species occurring in numbers of national importance are breeding Cormorant and Great Black-backed Gull, and on Illauntannig, wintering Barnacle Goose.
The Dingle is the most northerly of five peninsulas in south-west Kerry. This linear coastal site stretches from Brandon Point in the north, around the coast as far as Annascaul in the south. This is a crucial site for breeding Chough, as well as a handful of Peregrine pairs.
The largest group of islands on the south-west coast, the Blaskets, lie just off the Dingle. The group includes Great Blasket, with steep cliffs on its northern side, and the five smaller, exposed, rocky islands of Inistooskert, Inisvickillaun, Inisnabro, Tearaght and Beginish. Great Blasket was once inhabited and now has a visitor centre. A small herd of feral Red Deer are on Inishvickillaun. This site is paramount for its seabird colonies, including Storm Petrel, Manx Shearwater, Shag, Great and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, Black Guillemot and Puffin. Additional species breeding in numbers of national importance are Fulmar, Kittiwake and Razorbill.
The large, shallow, tidal estuary of Castlemaine Harbour is at the head of Dingle Bay. Sheltered from the open sea by sand and shingle spits on the north and south sides, it supports extensive intertidal mudflats with beds of Zostera Eelgrass and fringes of saltmarsh.
Inch Spit on the north side supports the most extensive and intact dunes in the region, while on the south side, a smaller spit with a dune system occurs. A vital wetland for wintering birds, including Brent Goose, Wigeon, Oystercatcher, Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Knot, Dunlin and Redshank, it’s also the most significant wintering site in Ireland for Common Scoter and Red-throated Diver.
Key breeding grounds
The Iveragh, situated in south-west Kerry south of the Dingle, extends from just west of Glenbeigh on the northern side of the peninsula around the coast to Lamb’s Head on the southern side, and includes Valentia Island. This linear site comprises sea cliff, grassland and heath habitats. This is a key site for breeding Chough, while several pairs of Peregrine breed, too.
The long, narrow, grassy and uninhabited Puffin Island, lying just off the northern side of St Finan’s Bay, is steep sided with a long narrow twin-peaked ridge rising to 145m. The island is owned by BirdWatch Ireland and permission is required for access. A key site for breeding seabirds such as Storm Petrel, Manx Shearwater and Puffin, additional species occurring in nationally significant numbers include Fulmar, Great Blackbacked Gull and Razorbill.
The two precipitous, rocky and uninhabited Skellig Islands are 10 miles west of Bolus Head on the Iveragh. Great Skellig reaches a height of 240m and is the site of an old Celtic monastery. Little Skellig to its north-east and reaches 134m in height. Great Skellig is popular with day trippers, while landing on Little Skellig is prohibited. The Skelligs are of global significance for breeding seabirds, such as Storm Petrel, Manx Shearwater and Puffin. In particular, the Gannet colony on Little Skellig is the largest in Ireland.
Other species breeding in numbers of national importance are Fulmar, Kittiwake, Guillemot and Razorbill.
It’s important to ensure that when visiting Great Skellig to use the paths, to prevent erosion of the fragile soils where many of the birds have their nest burrows. BirdWatch Ireland has a long-term lease on Little Skellig.
Killarney National Park, Kerry’s key inland site, extends south-west from Killarney town. It supports a diversity of habitats, from blanket bog and heath, to lakes which include the extensive Lough Leane and smaller Muckross Lake. Killarney was designated as an SPA based on breeding Merlin, Peregrine and Chough, as well as wintering White-fronted Geese.
● For more information please see gokerry.ie and birdwatchireland.ie