HEATHERLEA MD KEVIN SHAW WRITES...
The Rolling Bear
One morning we were cruising along the edge of the pack ice, which stretched solidly northwards off our starboard as far as the eye could see. It was a beautiful blue day, not a breath of wind, and the dazzling light caught the icy peaks of the sharp, frozen mountains of Svalbard on our port side. For all we knew, here at nearly 81° latitude, we could have been the most northerly people on planet Earth. Only research teams and perhaps a few crazy hunters could have been closer to the North Pole than us.
Without warning (and that’s what happens folks!) a Polar Bear came racing across the ice directly towards us. Our galley team were cooking fish for lunch, and we imagined this young individual must have smelled their work from a considerable distance. For the next 15 minutes, the bear tried everything he knew (we decided it was a young male) to get onto our boat. The thrill was indescribable, as the entire ship’s company watched him exploring the ice-edge, contemplating a leap across. We knew we were completely safe… weren’t we?
At one point the bear rolled over on his back, providing us with the photo you see above. Known for years at Heatherlea as ‘The Rolling Bear’, this is not a staged image of a captive animal, but the real wild experience. What was he doing? The scientist next to me ventured an opinion: “He is showing us his weak spot, his belly, in the hope the ship will react in a similar way. If he can see our weak spot, then maybe he can take advantage and get aboard.” Bears are clever animals, they so nearly understand us!
Of course the strategy didn’t work, and eventually the bear did a second thing I’ve never forgotten. Despite the maddening smell of fish, and the proximity of a delicious meal, this Polar Bear did something which I found quite extraordinary. He gave up. Not wasting any more time, he turned and loped away, never hesitating, never looking over his shoulder. Polar Bears look yellowish at a distance, and for the next 20 minutes I watched this apex predator resume his lonely wandering, the clear, crisp arctic air allowing beautiful views until he finally disappeared from sight.
I couldn’t help wondering, how many times should I have given up on something, and how many times instead did I keep doggedly on, chasing a lost cause, perhaps throwing good money after bad? The bear of course had a very clear imperative; he needs to eat, and if something isn’t working, give up and go do something else.
I’ve never forgotten this magical wildlife encounter!
Meeting the Walrus king
On one occasion, about 20 of us were disgorged onto the stony beach and allowed under supervision to approach the haul-out. Suddenly, Walruses began rolling over, down the beach and towards the water. At first we were crestfallen: had we disturbed them?
The opposite was true. These inquisitive animals were keen to take a look at us and swam across the shallow waters to inspect the strange intruders. By staying very still, at one point, I was about six feet from my nearest Walrus.
Individual animals took it in turn to be the bravest, coming closer and making flubbery noises in our direction. They were clearly curious – who were we, and what did we want? I was also struck by the sheer smell. Each Walrus eats about 70kg of clams every day, dislodging them from the ocean bottom with their tusks, then sucking the unfortunate contents from their shells. Walruses have no hands, and they do not use a toothbrush! Eventually it seemed that the animals approaching nearest were younger ones, each seemingly reporting back to a much larger individual, who was keeping a further distance. Eventually, this Walrus reared up, addressing us with a huge flubbering while seeming to keep eye contact. If I had woken from a dream where I was caught in a Dr Who episode called ‘Kingdom of the Walrus’, I would not have been surprised. One of the Heatherlea Guides standing by my side put it very well: “This is right up there”.
I’ve been privileged to visit the high arctic several times, but even now I often catch myself looking forward to the next voyage. Still one of the most pristine parts of the world, the environment and its wildlife are truly amazing and completely unforgettable.