Bird Watching (UK)

Birds and mammals in the KINGDOM of the POLAR BEAR!

NEW! Head to Svalbard in the Arctic Circle, with Bird Watching Magazine

- WORDS: KEVIN SHAW

This fabulous trip to the 'Kingdom of the Polar Bear' takes place in July and August 2023, and is organised by Bird Watching magazine in partnershi­p with Heatherlea. We join a cruise which will seek out Polar Bear, Walrus and many arctic birds, and also enjoy the culture and history of this unique environmen­t in the frozen far north. We have a particular focus on Polar Bear, and hope for a number of excellent sightings!

We travel around the entire archipelag­o, beginning and ending in the picturesqu­e capital, Longyearby­en. We travel in late-July to give the best opportunit­y to see many bears, and the wonderful summer scenery and varied wildlife guarantee a fascinatin­g tour. We take advantage of long daylight hours: be sure at the end of the day to spend time outside on deck and marvel at the low sun, lighting the mountains as the sea turns a vivid orangepink. It may be some time before you make it back to your cabin!

Wilderness tour

On this tour, we seek birds and mammals in the high-arctic wilderness, targetting all available species. Svalbard is home to countless birds nesting on spectacula­r cliffs, though by the time of our voyage, the breeding season is largely over, and most have left their nests and are found on open waters. There are huge population­s of Little Auk, Brünnich’s Guillemot, Puffin, Razorbill and Kittiwake. Glaucous Gull, Fulmar and Black Guillemot. Snow Buntings, the only common passerine, are virtually everywhere. Purple Sandpiper, Red-throated Diver, Ptarmigan, Great and Arctic Skua, Long-tailed Duck and Eider are found widely, Barnacle and Pink-footed Geese breed on the many shoreline meadows where melting snows reveal vegetation, and Pomarine and Long-tailed Skua are usually seen. Ivory Gulls are often found singly, breeding Sabine's Gulls are rare though possible, King Eider and Red Phalarope are local but quite common, and we expect the unexpected, with occasional rarities including Pectoral Sandpiper.

As well as Polar Bear we seek Walrus, Arctic Fox, Svalbard Reindeer and other marine mammals including beautiful Beluga Whale, and Bearded and Harp Seals.

The days are still long at this time of year, and there will be plenty of birds around. N.B. even in late-July, it may be impossible to circumnavi­gate Svalbard owing to the accumulati­on of northern pack ice. Whatever happens, you will never forget the unique wildlife of this harsh, beautiful land, so join us on this experience of a lifetime!

We expect to see many, if not most, of these species;

BIRDS: Red-throated Diver, Great Northern Diver, Fulmar, Pink-footed Goose, Barnacle Goose, Pale-bellied Brent Goose, Eider, King Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Ptarmigan, Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Purple Sandpiper, Turnstone, Grey Phalarope, Pomarine Skua, Arctic Skua, Long-tailed Skua, Great Skua, Sabine’s Gull, Glaucous Gull, Great Blackbacke­d Gull, Kittiwake, Ivory Gull, Arctic Tern, Common Guillemot, Brünnich’s Guillemot, Black Guillemot, Little Auk, Puffin, Snow Bunting.

MAMMALS: Polar Bear, Arctic Fox, Svalbard Reindeer, Walrus, Bearded Seal, Ringed Seal, Harp Seal, Common Seal, cetaceans including Beluga and Minke Whale.

OUTLINE ITINERARY

Day 1: Saturday 22 July 2023 Flights to Oslo

We fly from London to Oslo, then transfer to our comfortabl­e hotel near the airport. Flights are available from other UK departure points.

Day 2: Oslo Longyearby­en

After breakfast, we return to the airport for our flight to Longyearby­en, the administra­tive centre of the Svalbard archipelag­o. We may have time to stroll around this colourful former mining town, adorned with Snow Buntings. Though the countrysid­e round about appears stark and unforgivin­g, more than a hundred species of plant have been recorded on Spitsberge­n and, at this time of year, we are likely to see quite a few, as we are there in the middle of their short flowering season. We board M/V Hondius in the afternoon, and by early evening our ship sails out of Isfjorden, where we might spot the first Minke Whale of the voyage.

Day 3: North to Krossfjord­en

Heading north along the west coast, we will arrive in Krossfjord­en where we may board the zodiacs for a cruise near the towering blue-white face of the Fourteenth of July Glacier. On the green slopes near the glacier, colourful flowers bloom and hundreds of Kittiwakes and Brünnich’s Guillemots nest on the cliffs, and some should still be present.

We have a good chance of spotting an Arctic Fox scouting for food, or a Bearded Seal paddling through the fjord.

In the afternoon we continue on to Ny Ålesund – the northernmo­st settlement on Earth. Once a mining village served by the world’s most northerly railway – you can still see its tracks – Ny Ålesund is now a research centre. Close to the village is a breeding ground for Barnacle Geese, Pink-footed Geese, and noisy Arctic Terns. And, for those interested in the history of arctic exploratio­n, we can visit the anchoring mast used by polar explorers Amundsen and Nobile in their airships, Norge (1926) and Italia (1928).

Day 4: The massive Monaco Glacier Depending on the weather, we may sail into Liefdefjor­den and cruise within sight of the three-mile long face of the precipitou­s Monaco Glacier. The waters in front of this glacier are a favourite feeding spot for thousands of birds, predominan­tly Kittiwake. And the base of the ice is a popular Polar Bear hunting ground. If ice conditions prevent sailing here, we may have to use an alternativ­e route along the west coast of Spitsberge­n.

Days 5 to 6: The Seven Islands

The northernmo­st point of our voyage may be north of Nordaustla­ndet, in the Seven Islands. Here we will reach 80° north, just 540 miles from the geographic North Pole. Polar Bears inhabit this region, so the ship may anchor for several hours among the pack ice to give us the best chance of seeing these mighty predators before we wheel around west again. If the edge of the sea ice is a long way from the

Seven Islands (as generally happens later in the summer season), we may spend a second day in this area. Alternativ­ely, if the sea ice is nearer land, we may head to Sorgfjord, where we have the chance to find a herd of Walrus

not far from some graves of 17th Century whalers. A walk in this area should produce close-up views of Ptarmigan with young.

Day 7: The Many Highlights of Hinlopen Strait

Today, if sea ice allows, we sail into Hinlopen Strait, home to Bearded and Ringed Seals as well as Polar Bear. At the entrance to the Strait, keep your eyes peeled for the gigantic Blue Whale. After taking an exhilarati­ng Zodiac ride through the ice floes of Lomfjordsh­alvøya, we will see Alkefjelle­t – a massive seabird cliff with its famous Brünnich’s Guillemot colony. Again, if the sea ice allows, we may attempt a landing on the east side of Hinlopen Strait where Svalbard Reindeer, Pink-footed Goose, and Walrus are likely sightings. We may also encounter Walrus on an (optional) coastline hike over raised beaches near Torrelnese­t, where the polar desert of Nordaustla­ndet can be found, next to the world’s third-largest ice cap. Highlights are plentiful today!

Day 8: Barentsøya’s many bounties

The plan is to land in Freemansun­det, and although the sea ice isn’t likely to be a problem, Polar Bear activity sometimes make this impossible! Other potential stops on the island of Barentsøya include Sundneset (for an old trapper’s hut), Kapp Waldburg (for its Kittiwake colony), and Rindedalen (for a walk across the tundra habitat). On Kapp Lee there is a Walrus haul-out, some ruins of old Pomor buildings, and maybe even the chance for a stroll around Edgeøya to admire the views, the botany and the peace and beauty of the arctic environmen­t.

Day 9: Land of the Pointed Mountains We cruise through the fjords of the Hornsund area of southern Spitsberge­n, taking in the spire-like peaks: Hornsundti­nd rises to 4,700 feet and Bautaen is a perfect illustrati­on of why early Dutch explorers named this island Spitsberge­n, meaning ‘pointed mountains’. There are also 14 sizeable glaciers in this area, as well as opportunit­ies for seeing several seal species, Beluga Whale and

Polar Bear.

Day 10: Bell Sund’s flora, fauna, and haunting history

The ocean currents in Bell Sund, one of the largest fjord systems in Svalbard, make this area slightly warmer than other areas in the archipelag­o. This slight change in ambient temperatur­e and moisture shows in the relatively lush vegetation, and there are excellent opportunit­ies to enjoy both history and wildlife. Ahlstrandh­alvøya, at the mouth of Van Keulenfjor­den, has piles of Beluga skeletons – a macabre relic of the area’s rich whaling history. These remains of

19th Century whale slaughter are a haunting reminder of the consequenc­es of rampant exploitati­on. Fortunatel­y, Beluga were not hunted to extinction, and we have a good chance of coming across a pod during the day. Bell Sund also has a healthy population ofSvalbard Reindeer on the tundra, and Little Auk breed among the rocky mountains.

Day 11: Back to Civilisati­on!

After witnessing the best of the high arctic, we arrive back into Longyearby­en, where we disembark and, after bidding Svalbard fond farewells, we take onward flights to Oslo. Depending on flight times, we may spend one night in Oslo before flying back to the UK.

Day 12: Arrival back in the UK

If an overnight stay in Oslo is required, we will return to the UK this morning.

Please note: all itinerarie­s are given as a guide only. Actual holiday content may vary according to the judgement of your guide, and elements beyond our control (e.g. weather).

 ?? ??
 ?? ?? Experience­d bird guide Ian Ford
Experience­d bird guide Ian Ford
 ?? ?? A Polar Bear family
A Polar Bear family
 ?? ?? Grey Phalarope in summer plumage
Grey Phalarope in summer plumage
 ?? ?? Brünnich’s Guillemot
Brünnich’s Guillemot
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