Getting leathered in old Walsall
SINCE the early 18th century, around 600 pubs have served Walsall’s local community.
The 19th century was a period of tremendous social and economic change, as the urban population grew due to industrial growth. During this time, the number of pubs dramatically increased, becoming the social and commercial centres of the town, as well as providing venues for meetings and social events and catering for thirsty workers.
Walsall’s oldest pubs dated from the 16th century, but all are long-gone. In Digbeth, the Woolpack was a late-medieval timber-framed pub, known as one of the premier cock-fighting venues in Staffordshire. In 1651, Col. John Lane mustered Royalist troops here to fight against Charles II at Worcester, but the pub was rebuilt in 1899 and demolished in 1966.
The Old Still originally dated from Tudor times and was first licensed in 1818, but
was demolished in 1959. It had Dr Johnson’s Corner, named after he who rested here on his visits from Lichfield. Other historic pubs included the Talbot (1801-1963) in Digbeth, Three Swans & Peal (“House that Jack Built”) (1811-1891) in Peal Street, Three Tuns (1801-1902) in Lower Rushall Street and the Angel (1841-1861) in Park Street.
Tunnels
In Rushall Street, there were eleven inns and four beerhouses, where legends told of tunnels leading to places like Rushall Hall. Other historic pubs clustered along Church Hill, opposite St Matthew’s Church, including the Barley Mow (1783-1898), Leathern Bottle (1818-1939) and Old Queen’s Head (1845-1903).
At the foot of Church Hill, the Shakespeare Inn (1801) was a Georgian building, which became a lodging house in 1889, with much older cellars leading to limestone caverns. Nearby, Bull’s Head Yard
recalls the existence of the Bull’s Head, once an important coaching inn, but demolished in 1892.
Oldest
Walsall’s oldest remaining building that was once a pub is the White Hart in Caldmore Green. Originally built as a residence by George Hawe in 1560, it became an inn in 1801. During reconstruction work in 1870, workmen discovered a mummified human arm and sword dating from the Civil War. Tradition said that this
was the hand of a hanged man torn from the body as it swung on the gibbet – the “Hand of Glory”, but it was more probably the hand of a child, surgically removed for use in a medical school or hospital.
The building is no longer licensed (but listed Grade II) and the hand is in Walsall Museum.
Two other famous inns were the Green Dragon and the George Hotel. The first recorded licensee of the Green Dragon was Emphraim Deykin in 1707, but the pub and adjoining Guildhall were rebuilt in 1773, after which it was kept by Thomas Fletcher.
Its assembly rooms were used as a theatre from 17871803, where actress Sarah Siddons is reputed to have performed before it became a Catholic chapel. However, the pub’s licence was not renewed after 1909, when it was used by magistrate’s clerks.
Awards
In 1976 it was modified, refurbished and relicensed as a pub, and its historical significance was recognised in its Grade II listing. After closing in 2008, it reopened as the Black Country Arms and is a regular winner of CAMRA’S local Pub of the Year award.
Thomas Fletcher also established the George Hotel on the Bridge in 1781. After obtaining
an Act of Parliament to build a new road to Stafford, it became Walsall’s premier commercial hotel and principal coaching inn, with stage-coaches running to London, Bristol, Manchester, Sheffield and Liverpool. It was rebuilt as a modern hotel in 1935, but replaced by shops in 1979.
Actress
In 1750, Mr Siddons ran the London Apprentice in Rushall Street. He wanted his son, William, to become a barber, but he preferred the stage, became an actor and married Sarah Kemble (Siddons), one of England’s greatest actresses.
In 1774, the New Inn opened in Park Street, taking advantage of the new turnpike road to Wolverhampton, and was well-known for its cock-fights during Walsall Races. In 1777, John Jacam was the first licensee of the Brewery Stores in High Street. It later became the Highgate Brewery Stores, when it was reputedly haunted and, after being renamed the Market Tavern, closed in 2009.
In 1796, John Mountford first kept the Dog & Partridge in Sandwell Street, but it was rebuilt by 1934 and closed in 2017. For over 80 years, William Brown’s family kept the Blue Pig in New Street, dating from 1813, but it closed in 1932.
In High Street, the Bear & Ragged Staff was originally
built in 1815 as the residence of the master of Walsall’s pig market. When it was owned by Walsall Council, it was known as the Corporation Arms where, in 1906, licensee Josiah Burgess paid an annual rent of £70; the pub was demolished in 1966.
The Black Boy (1818) in New Street was used by “Cobdenites”, campaigning to repeal the Corn Laws, but closed in 1923.
Facing across Bath Street were the White Swan and Seven Stars. In 1783, Thomas Carless was the first licensee of the White Swan, but by 1851, it was kept by John Osbourne, who also collected the poor rate, but it closed in 1938. The Seven Stars (1834) was originally a Georgian beerhouse and was a rival to the nearby Jolly Bacchus (1834-1906), but lost its licence in 1901.
Blood bath
In Stafford Street, the Criterion was first licensed in 1818 as the Duke of Wellington and later renamed the Earl Grey, but was demolished in 1980. It had a music hall and was known locally as the “Madhouse” or “Blood Bath”, due to the heated political arguments which took place.
In Lichfield Street, St. Matthews Hall was originally built in 1831 in Greek Doric style as the town’s first permanent
library, becoming the County Court in 1847. Now a listed building (Grade II), it was converted into licenced premises in 1998 and became a Wetherspoon’s pub in 2011.
In Leicester Square, the Black Swan dated from 1837 and was variously known as the Stork Hotel and Dirty Duck before closing in 2007.
On the corner of Ablewell Street, the Borough Arms is one of the town’s finest examples of a Victorian pub, purpose-built for Mitchells & Butlers in 1903. It still displays Walsall’s coat of arms on the frontage, retains some original features and became Flan
O’briens, an Irish-themed pub.
On the edge of the town centre, the Pretty Bricks started life as the New Inn in 1838, but was rebuilt in 1871. It gained its current name in 2008 and retains many original features, including the attractive glazedbrick frontage and interior stained glass screens.
Variety
Pubs were regularly used for meetings of Friendly Societies, workers’ groups and religious organisations. Live entertainment was also popular, with plays, comedies and variety shows being performed in the
larger pubs. In the 19th century, cock fighting, bull baiting and bare-knuckle prize fighting also took place clandestinely in pubs, when you could also win a pig in the skittle alley!
Sadly, this merriment is not available nowadays, but we can still enjoy an excellent pint of beer in the remaining hostelries.
With acknowledgement to Walsall Chronicle, Walsall Library & Museum Services,