What Would you recommend for a Basic arrow Maintenance TOOLKIT? there seems to Be a lot Of Options and I don't Want to Buy everything piecemeal

1arrow cutter – No, you can’t use a Dremel: your precision set of expensive shafts will end up like a jaunty row of organ pipes. I chose the Easton Elite saw because, when it comes to arrows, Easton don’t put their rather expensive logo on any old rubbish. It’s sturdy, easy to use, and it stays set where you put it. It can accept a vacuum cleaner hose, so you don’t inhale carbon dust. Other archers will beat a path to your door, and your club can save pounds in the long run.

2Pipe cleaners – Seriously. Clean the inside of a shaft after cutting it, especially so with carbons. A fine deposit of dust means the points won’t stick. You’ll be amazed at the gunk and dirt that a pipe cleaner, doubled over and soaked in a little meths, will extract – and you will lose far fewer points in the target!

3Deburr tool – Use it on the inside edge of the cut metal, so the points go in more easily. Most reasonably-priced deburr tools look like the Beiter. Use it carefully: don’t apply too much pressure, just be gentle.

4Pliers and sharp knife – To hold hot points when extracting or inserting, and to remove excess hot-melt glue. My old Leatherman has both. For heating points I use my gas stove, or a little alcohol lamp if dinner’s on.

5Fletching jig – The first tool most archers buy. After years of flirting around, I settled on the Midas as being my favourite: sturdy, unfussy, doesn’t damage the nock, and adjustable for both compound and finger-shooter orientations. Several jigs will get the job done more quickly. Now available in space-saving upright mode.

6Beiter Tri-liner, for spin vanes – I don’t now how people manage without one of these. Some shaft wraps come with lines already on them, but these can become meaningless once you’ve got the nocks correctly orientated. If your arrows are going to 70m or beyond, then get the spin vanes working as a team: identically spaced, orientated, and lined up. The scale allows you to switch easily between Delta, Y, and traditional orientations. Or anything in between. Works well with non-beiter nocks too.

7Beiter spin-wing holder – Obviously, use these to apply the vane straight on the shaft, but also useful when applying tape to the vane. If the tape isn’t straight, the vane won’t be either. Works with most, but not all, spin vanes – do check.

8Grain scale – Check components are all the same weight, especially breakoff points. If you like to compensate for the weight of fletchings when shooting bareshafts, you need to know how much weight to add around the back of the shaft. Stop arrows rolling around with a bit of Blue Tak, just remember to zero the scale before weighing anything. Helpfully, the scale I use will automatically zero when turned on.

9Nock turner, for insert nocks – You should shoot all new arrows as bare shafts. If there are any which don’t group, turn the nocks and shoot again until they do group. Grasp the arrow with an arrow puller while using a turner. Easton and Beiter make simple tools for their own nocks.

10Fletching stripper – The right tool for the job: a knife can cut into carbon; a fletching stripper makes light work of the task. Quite satisfying to use. The shape of the Saunders helps apply even, level pressure, which won’t dig into the arrow, or slip off.

11Nock extractor – When a rear impact happens, smashing the nock but leaving the rest of the arrow intact, use one of these from Beiter. Works like a cork screw. Again, use in conjunction with an arrow puller. Very simple, the larger size is most suitable for fat shafts.

12spine tester or arrow straightener – In my experience, you only need the former for wooden shafts, and the latter for your club’s training equipment.