Michael Russell's patina masterclass on this six-coupled workhorse of British Rail's Southern Region and later, private industry, is a lesson in creative ingenuity.
There is no doubt that weathering is the key to producing a realistic model. Even low-cost, entry-level products with little detail can look very presentable, if treated properly. Personally, I would rather have one really well weathered locomotive than 100 out the box unweathered ones. It’s a matter of quality, not quantity. It takes time to produce a good weathering job and requires some practice.
The Heljan Class 07 is a beautiful model, intricately detailed and is strong because of its excellent build quality. Even the version I weathered, with all that extra pipework, is simple to work on as the body comes off in sections.
You can perform as few or as many of the steps I give depending on the finish you desire. If you only carry out a limited amount of weathering on your locomotive, I would suggest fading the paintwork.
This will make a huge difference and will immediately make the model look less toy-like.
I have chosen to depict a locomotive that is in regular use, but is kept outside and so subject to the full effect of the British weather. This is the typical condition of many shunters.
You can use acrylic or enamels to carry out your weathering, but I would recommend acrylic paints simply because of their fast drying time.
If it dries too quickly, and clogs the nozzle on your airbrush, add a drop of retarder.
Top tip: paint mixing
It is important that you mix paint well before using it. This is especially important with varnish. Wherever possible, use a broad spatula, such as a lollipop stick, to mix the paint until any solid matter at the bottom has completely dispersed. If the paint is in a dispenser where this isn’t possible, agitate the bottle vigorously using a whisk motion for at least 30 seconds.
I don’t have an airbrush
Not everyone has room for an airbrush and many modellers dislike the cleaning up required after using them. Without one, you can still replicate many of the techniques illustrated. Weathering powders require a matt finish for good adhesion. Apply these in small amounts and work each application well before judging if you need to add more. Seal your model with a matt varnish, but note that this may alter the finish slightly.
Even if your model is fresh from the box, it is still a good idea to check it for dirt and debris. Look out for stray hairs and errant glue. Use tweezers and a brush to remove offending detritus.
Remove the front bonnet section by removing the two screws from underneath, behind the buffer beam. Ease the handrails out of their retaining holes. Lift the bonnet gently, being careful not to damage pipework.
Whatever couplings you fit, it is a good idea before weathering to fit the buffer beam blanking plates that are supplied in the accessory bag. Cut them from the sprue, file true and press them into place.
Remove the two screws holding the keeper plate in place and lift it away. Use a container to hold the small parts while you work on the project.
Remove the chassis link by pulling the shaft end gently with your thumbnails. Lift away the wheels. Add a small dab of Maskol to the ends of each of the six electrical pick-ups where they contact the wheels.
Remove the cab section by gently waggling it from side to side while pulling in an upward direction. It isn’t glued and should come away easily. Remove the rear bonnet section in the same way as the front.
Cut masking tape to cover over the mechanism, circuit board and LEDs. The superstructure under the front bonnet section now provides a secure handgrip while you carry out weathering. Use toilet roll inserts as handles for the bonnets.
The pick-ups are bright and stand out even behind the wheels. Brush them with matt black enamel paint. Note the masking tape to protect the mechanism.
To fade the paintwork, spray the entire model with Matt Cote with a drop of (121) Pale Stone enamel paint added. It is better to add multiple layers rather than overdo the effect with too heavy a coating.
Finish the buffers with a dark rust colour, such as Vallejo Dark Rust, and a ring of oil made with a permanent black marker pen. Tone down the effect with a light rust colour such as Vallejo Orange Brown.
For finer rust spots, flick Vallejo Dark Rust at the model using a toothbrush and a blunt instrument to draw the bristles back. Practise on scrap paper first. Be very careful not to overdo this effect.
I decided to darken the front grille to simulate the ingress of dirt from the fan draft. Spray with matt black acrylic. Touch up missing white from handrails and pipes with white enamel 34.
Use a cotton bud and thinners to wipe off the overspray from the cab glazing. Use a clean cotton bud to remove the thinners before it dries.
Use Quickshade Soft Tone to highlight panel recesses and detail. Apply with a brush and wipe off excess. Work in small areas as this product dries fast.
To avoid monotony, add variety to the rust spots by touching in lighter rust and off-black colours to the patches you already added. I used Lifecolor Vulcanised Rubber and Rust Base Color.
Make a mask from a piece of paper with a slit cut in it to prevent overspray on the buffer beam. Slide this into place, then spray each buffer a coat of (74) Linen.
Use a dark brown, such as Vallejo Dark Rust, to add rust spots to the model. Concentrate on panel edges and places where the paint would be damaged such as around couplings. Use a sponge or a paint brush.
Imitate paint chips on handrails by adding random marks with a permanent black marker pen. Ensure the marks go all the way round the handrails. Add more marks on areas of the handrail that would see the most use.
Spray the wheels and frames with a dark brown such as Vallejo Black Brown. Wipe excess off the coupling rods leaving deposits around the bosses to represent oil.
Light marks were present on the wheels and roof and so I add small amounts of an off white (Lifecolor dust type 1). Be careful not to overdo this effect.
Dust the frames, brake rigging, couplings and wheels with a bright rust colour, such as Vallejo Orange Brown, to represent brake dust. I also gave the cab roof a dusting.
To represent spilled fuel, I brushed on Lifecolor Tensocrom Kerosene on the bodywork below the filler cap on the rear bonnet.
Spray the exhaust pipe with Vallejo Orange Brown and dust a very light coat over the bodywork, the pipework and handrails to blend the effects together. This is a working locomotive, so don’t overdo the effect.
When dry, carefully reassemble the model. The front pipework can be a challenge. I took a piece off, fitted the bonnet and then stuck the pipework back on with cyanoacrylate glue. Clean the wheel rims and remove the Maskol.