GETTING STARTED IN N GAUGE FINESCALE TRACK

Authentic-looking track is possible in a smaller scale using proprietary components, as Paul Moss demonstrates, with an introduction to building finescale N gauge track.

When it comes to model railways, one favoured approach is to focus on building what looks right. That’s why I elected to use finescale trackwork on the scenic section of my N gauge exhibition layout, ‘Little Salkeld’.

Finescale track has a more accurate sleeper size and pitch. The rail is also

Code 40, which is finer and is available in bullhead or flat-bottom profile to suit period and prototype being modelled. Finescale track is also more delicate, so is really suited to being permanently fixed and ballasted in position.

Experience gained from exhibiting ‘Little Salkeld’ suggests that finescale N gauge and 2FS are sometimes confused. The term 2FS is typically used to refer to a more accurate track gauge and standard throughout, although it is close to N gauge in many ways.

A traditional approach was to scratchbuild track by soldering rails to copperclad sleepers and this technique is still favoured by some. An alternative is the use of FiNetrax N gauge track components, which are supplied by British Finescale

Ltd. FiNetrax components provide a useful compromise for those that may not have the time available to scratch-build track or the inclination to undertake a lot of soldering.

When I built ‘Little Salkeld’ in 2017, I opted for a hybrid approach, mixing the FiNetrax components with points that were scratch-built for me by Keith Armes.

Keith specialises in 2FS but can do finescale N gauge, providing a track planning service using Templot software and a bespoke point building service. I chose this route at the time because ‘Little Salkeld’ sits on a bespoke radius and I wanted the track to accurately follow the prototype radius. FiNetrax point kits can be modified to suit a gentle radius. However, I was on a tight time schedule to get the layout to its first exhibition and Keith’s work is exemplary.

While the scale is close, it’s not possible to use N gauge stock on 2FS track. N gauge RTR rolling stock typically uses wheels that are significantly overscale in terms of flange thickness and wheel profile. 2FS requires the use of finer wheel standards, which are much closer to the prototype. It’s likely that N gauge wheels would encounter problems running through check rails and frogs on 2FS point work leading to derailment.

N Gauge RTR stock can be modified to run on 2FS track. However, the accuracy and appearance of 2FS looks exceptional.

Think of N gauge finescale as a good compromise. With a little additional effort, you can have accurate looking track without needing to heavily modify RTR rolling stock and there’s no special skill set required.

Getting started

Finescale track of any gauge requires a good surface, particularly where there may be baseboard joints. I would recommend using the best quality birch plywood that you can get your hands on. This is particularly important if you are building a layout that will travel to exhibitions or be subjected to variable temperatures or humidity.

For the few who plan an exhibition layout using finescale track, use alignment dowels as well as bolts to ensure that connecting baseboard ends and track are accurately aligned.

You will often see people debating the advantages (or not) of using a cork underlay. There’s some personal preference involved here, and to be fair, its ability to quieten down moving rolling stock is debatable. I prefer to use it under the track as it enables me to create the ballast profile.

Track construction

FiNetrax track components are available to represent both wooden and concrete sleepers and can be matched with Code 40 rail in both bullhead and flat bottom profiles. I would take guidance from the period and location that you are modelling when selecting which type to use. Take care, because bullhead rail on wooden sleepers can still be found on some parts of the current network. FiNetrax components are available from British Finescale Ltd.

Before removing track components from the sprue, run a light abrasive across the underside of the track components. This will assist adhesion when fixing track in position later.

Tools

You can prepare and assemble FiNetrax track components without jigs and tooling. However, it’s not recommended. Using the affordable filing and assembly jigs will make life a lot easier. It’s also particularly beneficial for your sanity if you are building a sizeable layout with a lot of track!

There are a range of simple filing and assembly jigs to assist in the assembly of track components

Tools needed:

· 25W soldering iron with fine or chisel tip · Xuron track cutters

· Snipe-nosed pliers

· Small file

· FiNetrax filing & assembly jigs

· Fibreglass brush or fine abrasive

· 1m rosin core solder

· Superglue

· PVA

TOP TIP

Before starting work ensure that your rail is clean by running a fine abrasive such as a fibreglass pen along its length. Use flux to assist the solder's flow along the side of the rail. Using a soldering iron with a fine tip is not essential, but it will provide you with much more control.

Ballasting

An important consideration is the need to use a fine ballast that’s in proportion to the track. Some proprietary N gauge ballast materials can look a little coarse and overscale compared to the track. There is a practical solution, however, and after experimentation, I found that a mix of one third N gauge ballast to two-thirds chinchilla dust creates a much finer appearance.

Ballast can be secured in position in the usual way with a thinned PVA and detergent mix. A word of warning here is that this ballast mixture will dry solid, so it’s important that you adjust it with a fine brush before the glue cures. Some chinchilla dust may also look a little green in appearance, so I also add a small amount of weathering powder to the ballast mix before applying it, which instantly transforms the colour.

Conclusion

It’s important to ensure that the wheels on your rolling stock are set up correctly for smooth running. You can easily check and adjust the distance between the back of the rolling stock wheel sets using a back-to-back gauge. It’s just a case of sliding the gauge between the wheels and checking that the backs of each wheel just touch the gauge. If they are too tight or too loose, one of the wheels can be adjusted on the axle. This is something I would recommend checking and adjusting even if you are not using finescale track as poor backto-back dimensions can lead to poor running through points. Back-toback gauges are relatively low cost and typically only a few pounds, so are a good investment for smooth running.

Building your own track may seem intimidating at first; however, it’s just a matter of being methodical and using a little patience. If you are keen to gain the appearance of finescale track, I would suggest having a go with a few track components and a piece of scrap plywood.

Carefully cut the track components from the sprue. Slide the rail through the chairs. Once the rail has passed through two or three chairs it will be well aligned for the remainder and just needs to be carefully pushed through. Repeat the exercise with the second rail. Use a fine abrasive to roughen the shiny underside of the sleeper base. This will provide a better key for glue later on. Drop the sleeper bases into the assembly jig and tighten the locking bar. Avoid over tightening as this may distort the sleepers. Once you have passed the rail through the jig, grasp both rails and slowly pull them through the chairs. Carefully remove the cast frog fitted to the Sleeper base. Drill a 2.5mm hole between the sleepers, which will be hidden by the frog. Replace the push-fit frog after you have drilled and deburred the hole. Using a small file or abrasive, put a small taper on each side and underside of the rail. This is very important and will enable the rail to better slide through the chairs without jamming or causing any damage. If you are using bullhead rail, ensure that it is the right way up before you assemble it. The top is slightly larger than the bottom. Flat bottom rail can only be assembled the right way up. Repeat the process with more sleeper bases until you have created a length of track. Store the track somewhere safe before you install it on your layout to prevent it getting damaged. Tape the sleeper base to a piece of scrap plywood. Ideally, use a piece that is flat and not warped. This provides a stable temporary work surface during assembly.

We need to strengthen the switch rails. Using the sleeper base as a guide, cut them to length. Fill one side at the end with approximately 20mm of solder. This is only required on the end that will form the switch. This completes the manufacture of the switch rail. Repeat for the second switch rail. Cut and taper the ends of the remaining rails. The point is now ready for final assembly. Start with the switch rails, also adding the supplied tie bar. The switch rails will hold it in place. Next, fit the stock rails and finally the check rails. Don’t forget to add a slight bend at the end of each of the check rails. This completes the manufacture of the switch rail. Repeat for the second switch rail. Insert the switchblade rail into the FiNetrax filing and assembly jig with the soldered end exposed and facing down. Using a needle file carefully file the exposed end until it's flush with the jig. Apply pressure gradually when filing. Rotate the rail and repeat the process on the soldered side. The result is a sharp switch blade tip. Cut each chair from the sprue and, using the tip of the craft knife, insert the chairs into the sleeper base. When the chairs and rails are all sitting down in position, they can be glued using Butanone. Once the adhesive is fully cured, the assembled point can be carefully removed from the plywood. The switch rail is now soldered to a chair plate. The jig is laid flat and the etched slide chair is placed into the slot. The sharpened end of the switchblade is slid into the jig and the thumb screws tightened. A piece of 0.4mm wire is inserted into the hole on the slide chair and cut flush. The assembly is soldered on one side and tidied using a small file. Instructions provided with the point kit show where each chair type is to be inserted into the sleeper base. Lift out and remove the frog and solder a dropper wire to the underside where it sits over the 2.5mm hole. The frog can then be reassembled to the sleeper base and secured in position using superglue.

Finescale track is a bit delicate for using track pins. A good solution is to use thinned PVA glue, which can be applied to the underside of the track components using a small paintbrush. The consistency of the PVA should be similar to milk in appearance and viscosity. Lightly brush the underside of the track with the watered-down PVA mixture before placing it in position on the layout. Using a pair of small or snipe-nosed pliers, flatten the end of your dropper wire and bend it 90-degrees to form a heel. Once the track is firmly glued in position, you can carefully remove the excess cork. You can opt to lay cork strips under the track to reduce wastage, however, I prefer to cover the baseboard area around the trackplan and simply remove the excess with a scraper. Soldering electrical dropper wires to Code 40 rail requires a steady hand. There is an easier alternative, however, which also can assist in preventing rails from moving in the chairs. This is the inclusion of a copper clad sleeper at the end of each section of track or point. The copper clad sleeper can be drilled to accommodate a dropper wire. It provides a larger surface area on which to solder and enables dropper wires to be replaced once the trackwork is fixed to the layout and ballasted. Pass the dropper wire through the hole on the sleeper. While ensuring the heel sits flat on the top of the sleeper, solder it into position using a minimal amount of solder. Flux is your friend here and ensures that you end up with a nice neat joint.