PRINTER CONFIGURATION

Setting up the printer was quite straightforward, just needing access to an electrical socket and a stable work surface out of the direct sun. These are standard requirements for most equipment, but more so with resin printers as extreme changes in temperature may affect its precision, and since the resin is cured by ultra-violet light, any exposure to sunlight may interfere with the printing process. I learnt this lesson the hard way courtesy of the sunniest day of the year so far. Just as a print finished, the sun shone directly on the machine, rapidly forming a cold custard like skin (except that it was a very unappetising grey colour) on the unused resin and around the sides of the vat.

Fortunately, I was able to wash it off the parts before it set, but I spent all evening chiselling the hardened deposits from the equipment, and the following day hunting for blackout material. The printer is now set up on a workbench in the garage and well shielded from the windows. Another good idea is to place it on an oven tray to contain any resin drips while filling the vat or removing the models.

The next step was to attach and level the build plate. Although critical to the printer working properly as the plate must be exactly flat to the glass screen for the resin to adhere across the whole surface, it was a relatively easy procedure to complete. The instructions that came with the printer were easy to understand, and these were supported by more than enough YouTubers doing the same thing.

At this point, you are now ready to do the first test print. Their purpose is to check that the build plate is level and find the optimal settings for the printer based upon the quality you seek and the type of resin used.

For this you will need a test model, and of course, some resin. Most printers come with a test piece pre-loaded. Once the sliced file is loaded, you are ready to add the resin to the vat.

There are many different resin types and colours – some, transparent. Each has its own particular properties and may need its own unique printer settings to produce a successful part. For example, a black or very dark resin is likely to need a longer exposure time than one of a lighter hue for the ultraviolet light to penetrate effectively and complete the curing of each layer. Although water-washable resins are available, the basic starter type is a light grey resin that needs Iso Propyl Alcohol (IPA) solvent to be cleaned. Most printer default settings are based around this, and it is what I currently use.

There are a number of options, but the key settings are the layer height that controls how thick each layer is, and the exposure time, which determines how long the ultraviolet is on to cure the resin. Be prepared to take a few goes to arrive at the right combination of settings that gives you the desired quality of finish without taking too long to print.