Planning your loft
Transforming your attic into a liveable area could be the best way to get more space in your home without moving house. Here we’ve put together everything you need to know to get your project started
Could undertaking one of these popular conversion projects be right for you?
Gaining a whole new storey of living space thanks to a loft conversion remains a popular project for UK homeowners. You can typically achieve around 30% more floor area in a two storey house – but that’s not the only thing that’ll increase; get it right and the value of your home could go up by 20% or more. The benefits are obvious, but making sure you maximise everything this project could offer is the best route to ensuring success. From understanding options for floors and insulation (page 92) through to glazing options (95) and specifying the best staircase and joinery (page 96), this special guide is packed with the essential info you need to get going with your scheme.
But before we get stuck into the core details, we’ve rounded up the five key questions that you’ll need to consider before starting your loft conversion.
1 Is there enough room?
Before anything else, you need to assess the loft to establish if it’s going to be possible to create living space up there. The first thing to investigate is what headroom is available by measuring from the floor joists up to the ridge beam in the apex of the roof – a height of 2.3m or more will allow for a comfortable finished space, but you can get away with 2.1m if necessary. Also check out the span of the room in relation to the pitch – depending on the width of the building, it’s generally easier to create more usable space from a steeper roof.
Don’t forget to have a look at what’s currently in the loft, too. If you’ve been using it for storage, then you’ll need to find somewhere else to keep the stuff that’s up there. Homes with a regular boiler might have an expansion tank in the loft, which will either need to be moved or hidden by creating a suitable cupboard, or the heating source can be replaced with a system or combi boiler that doesn’t require a tank. Chimney stacks are another thing to work around – it may be possible to remove these or integrate them into the design.
2 How was the roof constructed?
The way it was built will be important when it comes to understanding how it can be converted and for predicting costs. You’ll also need to check out the condition of the structure – rotting timbers and defective tiles, for instance, won’t stop a project, but will impact on budget.
Older properties will probably have a cut roof, which would have been designed and built on site using thick timbers for the rafters, joists and purlins, with little bracing needed. This setup often works well for loft conversions as there’s usually a fairly clear roof void.
Since the 1960s, engineered Fink trusses have been more popular. These create a W-shape structural web that minimises the overall amount of timber needed for
roof construction – great for more affordable roofs, but bad for converting because you’ll need to take the webbing out and put alternative supports in its place.
3 How can you maximise light & space?
The way in which you intend to use the new storey will impact on factors such as the floorplan, what headroom is going to be necessary and the amount of daylight needed. Taking the popular master bedroom and ensuite project as an example, while a bed won’t need too much headroom and storage can be integrated into a vaulted space, a shower will need decent height to work efficiently.
Rooflights are a popular and affordable way to bring in daylight, and may be all that’s required in some lofts, but they won’t give you extra height. Building out of the roof pitch (with a dormer, mansard or hip-to-gable extension) will offer an opportunity for more conventional headroom and allow you to fit standard vertical windows, but will require more structural work and therefore a higher budget.
4 Do you need planning permission?
It’s possible to convert your loft without having to apply to your council for formal consent thanks to a scheme called permitted development (PD). However, there are limitations to the size and scope of what you can do without planning permission. If PD rights are applicable, then you’re able to: Extend out of the roof pitch up to a volume (incl. previous roof additions) of 50m3 (or 40m3 on a terraced house). Include dormers and other extensions if they are set back at least 200mm from the original eaves. Install windows at the side of the property, as long as you use obscure glass to maintain privacy.
However, bear in mind you can’t build out of the roof slope on a street-facing elevation or extend more than the highest point of the house. You’ll also need to use external materials similar to those on the rest of the property. There are other conditions and limitations – search for loft conversions on the Planning Portal (www.planningportal.co.uk) for full details and ask your council if PD applies to your home.
Another formal regulation that you’re likely to come across with a loft conversion is the Party Wall Act. This means you need to notify neighbours of your project plans if you’re working at the boundary with another property – so it’s common on semi-detached and terraced houses. Be sure you tick all the boxes before going ahead with any work.
5 What professionals should be involved?
It’s best to work alongside a qualified designer to the get the most out of the space available and your budget. Whether you go with an architect, technician, specialist loft conversion firm or experienced builder, always ask for recommendations, references and visit previous projects before agreeing to work with a firm. Confirm a quote first, too. The same applies for putting your project out to tender – your designer might have contacts they can recommend, or perhaps they’re able to do the works as part of a package.
To ensure the works adhere to the Regs, they’ll need to be signed off by building control (which will want to inspect at agreed stages). You’ll need to submit a building notice 48 hours before work starts – or you can submit a full plans application instead, where your designer will create drawings for building control to inspect. This can prove an advantage for getting quotes from contractors.