Heat emitters
From modern underfloor setups to traditional radiator systems, we take a closer look at the various options available for your project
An efficient way to diffuse warmth through your house is essential. Our guide examines the pros and cons of the various output solutions, from radiators to underfloor heating
There’s a plethora of solutions when it comes to creating a tailored heating setup for your home, with choices ranging from toasty stoves and fires to sleek underfloor arrangements hidden beneath the floor’s surface. Consulting with a professional heating engineer is time well spent when it comes to determining which product – or which combination of appliances – will best suit your abode. Practical and aesthetic considerations will play a part in your decision, too. You’ll also need to specify an arrangement that complements your chosen heat source, whether you’re using renewables or a conventional gas/oil boiler.
Radiators
Speedy response times, an uncomplicated installation process and ease of control are a few of the advantages offered by this conventional solution. “Some people also like the sense of having a direct heat source in a room rather than the more ambient sense of warmth you’d get from underfloor heating,” says Nick Duggan, managing director at The Radiator Company.
Available in an impressive array of shapes, sizes and designs, these units distribute warmth via radiant and convected heat. Hot water, approximately 75ºc, is pumped from the boiler or renewable heat source to the radiator via a system of pipes. Modern appliances typically feature two plates encased by a top grille and side covers. Convector fins between the two panels enhance the airflow around the unit, resulting in increased heat distribution.
Traditionally, radiators would be sited beneath windows to alleviate any cold draughts coming from this area. “But thanks to major improvements in double glazing and other insulation techniques, plus the strides manufacturers have taken to improve the efficiency of products, you can find something that will work in almost any situation,” says Nick.
If your heating system is set to be powered by an air or ground source heat pump (ASHP; GSHP), bear in mind that these appliances run at lower output temperatures. GSHPS running at their most efficient level provide an output temperature between 35ºc and 45ºc. So, your radiators will need to be sized accordingly. Models with a larger surface area will be able to deliver the heat you need at a lower input temperature. Alternatively, hooking your radiators up to a different renewable solution, such as a biomass boiler (which offers a higher heat output, around the 70ºc mark), could be the best solution.
Underfloor heating
Whether you go for a water-based or electrically powered version, this solution works by transforming your home’s floors into a low-temperature, radiant heat emitter. “The former circulates warm water (approximately 30ºc
35ºc) through a series of pipes beneath the floor surface, providing even temperature distribution,” says David Playfoot from Uponor. Most arrangements are divided into separate zones, each of which is connected to a manifold that regulates the flow of water from the boiler or alternative heat source. A thermostat is used to determine the temperature in each area.
“Electric versions feature a network of cables that’s wired up to a thermostat and the mains power,” says David. This solution tends to be cheaper to install than a waterbased setup but as it’s powered by the mains electric, it’s typically more expensive to run. “Generally, it’s better suited to smaller areas, usually less than 22m2,” says David.
As well as providing cosy warmth underfoot, this distribution solution offers an even spread of heat throughout the area. “Plus, it provides a clean, minimal look, as no wall space is taken up by radiators,” says Rachel Roberts from Nu-heat. Underfloor heating (UFH) is an excellent partner for systems powered by air and ground source heat pumps. “These appliances are most efficient when operating at a lower output temperature, making them ideal for teaming with UFH, which has a lower flow temperature than conventional radiators,” says Rachel.
The heat output your system should deliver depends largely on the thermal performance of the building. “An expert supplier will carry out room-by-room heat loss calculations to design the UFH to match the planned glazing, insulation, floor coverings, usage and required temperature of each room,” says Rachel.
UFH is compatible with a range of floor coverings, including stone and ceramic tiles, vinyl, polished concrete, carpet and engineered timber. “Some choices work better than others,” says David. “For example, harder surfaces like ceramic tiles can transfer heat from the UFH to the floor surface more effectively compared with carpet.”
Stoves
From contemporary wall-mounted models to characterful inset units, there’s a world of choice when it comes to specifying an appliance that will suit your requirements, both practically and in terms of aesthetics. “The fireside ambience and a stove’s ability to heat a space without switching on the central heating are also key advantages,” says Annabelle Carvell from Stovax.
One of your first major decisions will revolve around how your stove is powered. The best option will depend on the fuel that’s available locally, plus the level of performance you want to achieve. Woodburners will infuse your living space with authentic rustic charm and deliver impressive efficiency rates, with modern designs offering between 80% and 90%. “Another benefit, particularly for properties in rural areas, is that they provide a solution that doesn’t fail in winter in case of power outages,” says Annabelle. Plus, when sourced locally, timber is a sustainable fuel source.
Multi-fuel appliances give you the flexibility to burn wood, smokeless fuel or coal, so you can switch your power source depending on what’s available. Gas stoves mimic the look of real woodburners but can be turned on and off at the touch of a button. “Many designs also bring the benefit of installation without a chimney, as these glassfronted units can vent directly to an outside wall, negating the need for a conventional flue,” says Annabelle. Lastly, electric stoves offer a convenient plug-in-and-go option with impressive efficiency rates of near 99%. However, this solution typically provides a lower heat output.
When researching products, you’ll want a design that comes with airwash technology that keeps the pane of glass at the front of the unit clean. “For woodburners or multi-fuel appliances, look for a solution that’s Ecodesign Ready,” says Annabelle. “This means it complies with future emissions regulations, due to be enforced from 2022.”
Unless you’re installing an electric stove, arrange for a HETAS or Gas Safe-registered professional to come out for a survey. They will assess the requirements for the appliance itself, the flue, ventilation, hearth and other essential stipulations to meet
Building Regulations.
Fires
Whether powered by wood logs, gas or electricity, a fire will imbue your home with a warm and inviting ambience. Firstly, establish the role it will serve as part of your home’s heating setup. By and large, its lower efficiency means it’s reserved as an aesthetic, occasional room heater.
The next step is to decide which fuel will power your fire, as this will influence the level of work that is required to install it. Solid fuel and gas appliances require a chimney or flue so exhaust gases can be removed from the house efficiently. “Consider local smoke control restrictions that may be in place, too” says Annabelle. “The fire that you select will need to be approved for use in controlled zones.” If you intend to fit an open fire, a non-combustible hearth will also be required to meet the stipulations laid out by Building Regulations.
Gas and solid fuel models will need to be fitted by a Gas Safe or Hetas-registered professional. He or she will carry out a survey to determine exactly what your property’s heat requirements are. “The initial site survey will also look at the condition of your chimney, which may need re-lining,” says Annabelle. “If you don’t have a pre-existing conduit to channel exhaust gases away, your engineer will also be able to advise you on the flue requirements.” Products that are powered by electricity can be installed on a DIY basis.