SIAN DAVID
IREMEMBER how Christmas used to feel when I was little. My absolute favourite time of the year, anticipation building almost as soon as the new school term began in September, waiting for the first fairy lights to appear in the windows on my street and the chills down my back every time I caught the opening bars of Shakin’ Stevens’ Merry Christmas Everyone.
But, somewhere along the line, that glow just… goes. The fairy lights look a little dimmer and the carol concerts become something to be endured rather than enjoyed.
Don’t get me wrong, I still love Christmas. It’s just that the magic isn’t quite as, well, magical, when you’re a grown-up.
Düsseldorf, however, is different. There is something about how this place does it which makes it that much better.
Twinkling lights, the smell of fir trees, the scent of glühwein wafting through the air and gentle jingles of festive music float across the Rhine in the centre of the city.
Just over an hour’s flight from Bristol, a sprawling series of Christmas markets spread out across this historic backdrop, and even the frostiest of Scrooge-like hearts can’t fail to be warmed by the atmosphere. Or the mulled wine, if nothing else.
Running until the end of December, the seven markets are take up more than one kilometre, and each has a different theme.
In the heart of the city’s Old Town, the tightly-packed wooden sheds nestle under the cosmopolitan mix of traditional and contemporary architecture which gives Düsseldorf so much character. The huts are adorned with festive lights and decorations in keeping with each of the themes, including angels, stars and fairy tales, and moving from one little world into another keeps the experience interesting and unique – you won’t get fatigued by endless rows of stalls because each themed market offers new sights, sounds, smells and stuff to buy.
Try a mulled wine or cider, hot chestnuts or traditional deep-fried potato patties with apple mousse from one of the food stalls – not forgetting piping hot bratwurst or currywurst, staples of a German Christmas market.
Beyond the stalls and merchandise, the city comes alive with an outdoor ice rink, children’s fun activities and carol singing all part of the festivities.
For all that the markets bring a nostalgic and traditional Christmassy feel to the city, Düsseldorf itself is actually a progressive metropolis, constantly moving with the times and reinventing itself. After some 85% of the city’s buildings were destroyed or damaged in the Second World War, Düsseldorf has been building on its heritage to create a cityscape which reflects its past but looks to the future, too.
The city’s transport network is designed to encourage footfall to the attractions in the centre, from the wide green spaces to the high fashion hub on the Königsallee (King’s Avenue).
To make the most of a swift spell in the city, jump on a hop-on, hop-off tour bus and cram a lot of learning into a short space of time.
After a day of strolling through the atmospheric streets, including a trip to fourth-generation baker Hinkel (you must go; the bread, the gingerbread, the everything is out of this world) on Mittelstraße, it was time to take my weary feet back to the luxury of the Hotel Maritim. Located adjacent to Düsseldorf Airport, the hotel is the perfect spot for families, couples and business travellers.
It’s only a short train journey away from the bustling centre of the city, but is incredibly convenient for arrival and onward travel.
The rooms are bright and fresh, with floor to ceiling windows, white linen and minimalist, clean lines, yet still manage a homely feel. The beds are outstandingly comfortable and, what impressed me most, is that each piece of artwork throughout the hotel’s corridors is unique – they never repeat an image or painting, which is the kind of attention to detail you spot throughout the whole venue.
With 533 rooms and suites in all, the hotel also offers a wellness facility with pool, sauna and steam room, ideal for easing aching feet and backs after a long day walking and shopping.
There is free internet and wi-fi throughout the hotel, with wired access in the rooms.
There are also several bars and restaurants, as well as a comfortable lobby if you would prefer to sit for a while before nipping next door for your flight.
We flew with Flybmi on a compact plane which I found to have rather more leg room than average. There are three seats in each row, a single and a double, separated by an aisle. Boarding was unusually quick as a result, and with a full bar and snack service included the flight simply, er, flew.
As did the weekend, to be honest. I could have easily spent another couple of days exploring the old town, browsing the markets and wandering down to the media harbour, where some of the city’s most beautiful and innovative architecture stands amid a bustling and growing business hub.
As it was, a 48-hour festive whirlwind in one of Europe’s most beautiful locations was certainly enough to get me into the Christmas spirit.