Burton Mail

RAISE A GLASS

- WITH JANE CLARE

Pennies are being counted in our lives, that’s for sure, so I’m keeping an everwatchf­ul eye out for some decent sips at a decent price.

When I was asked to try a couple of new wines available at Tesco for £5, my heart sank a little, as wines for about a fiver can be lacking in flavour, body and personalit­y.

But I was pleasantly surprised with the new duo of Campaneo Old Vines Garnacha 2020 and Campaneo Old Vines Tempranill­o 2020.

The key two words for me on these wines are “old vines”. Because when grapes grow on old vines they are more concentrat­ed with flavour. These older plants don’t produce as many grapes as they did in their flush of youth, but the grapes in their older days make up for it with more depth.

These are two easy-drinking, pourable wines which are ripe with sun-drenched Spanish fruit. The garnacha was eager to show red fruits and plums, and the tempranill­o’s cherry and raspberry notes were lashed with spice.

Another night, and I found myself in France (metaphoric­ally, by way of a glass). Asda Extra Special Cru Du Beaujolais Fleurie (£8) is a purpleyred wine with cherries, blueberrie­s and a softness that is very pleasing.

Fleurie is probably the best-known of the Beaujolais crus (the top tier of quality in the region); but the most powerful is Moulin-à-vent.

By chance, just days earlier, I’d enjoyed Château du Moulinà-vent 2018 (£17, from the Wine Society).

It’s a statement wine, brooding with dark cherries and plums, but with a lightness of touch brought in by raspberrie­s and a floral note. A prickly spice emboldens the palate, together with ripe tannins.

A steak with a cheeky teaspoon of horseradis­h, was a perfect match. I’ll end with a fizz.

Last week I finished some wine exams and let’s just say its been a stressful few days!

I’d put this next wine to one side to pour, to refresh, to sigh, when all was done.

And I’m so glad I did.

The South African sparkler Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 2017 (£19.99, or £17.99 in a buy six deal in Majestic) is crafted with chardonnay and wooshes with buttery, toasty, brioche, with flavours of ripe apple and pear, and a refreshing citrus edge

Jane is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Find her on social media and online as One Foot in the Grapes.

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