Turkish delights
MEGAN BANNER IS DAZZLED BY THE LANDMARKS AND HISTORY OF ISTANBUL
AS we sail along the Bosphorus in the warm spring sunshine, the many architectural masterpieces of Istanbul come into view.
From the domes and minarets of the mosques to the ornate watchtowers and grand palaces, the ageless wonders line up along this intensely blue waterway, waiting to be admired.
The top deck of a tour boat is the perfect platform to take in one of the world’s greatest skylines – and it’s even more pleasurable when the trip comes complete with a meze of dips, flatbreads and olives plus a serving of Turkish tea.
Nowhere in the world is quite like this vibrant, mystical metropolis. Founded by the Greeks, it was capital of the Byzantine Empire and the Ottoman Empire.
Straddling two continents – one foot in Europe, the other in Asia – its colourful history is reflected in its overwhelming good looks.
Our thrilling sail takes in all the sights – from the Maiden’s Tower, seemingly floating in the middle of the strait to mark the entrance, to the 15th century Rumeli Fortress built on a hill on the European side.
In between, on the Asian side, is the ornate Kucuksu Palace, now a museum. Opposite is the Ortakoy Mosque in the shadow of the Bosphorus Bridge and Dolmabahce Palace, the largest palace in Turkey.
There’s a feast of show-stopping landmarks on both banks and the tour guide helpfully announces each one to save you scouring a map and missing anything.
Although it initially felt like I’d seen it all in one afternoon boat trip, in reality I had barely scratched the surface. With its staggering wealth of attractions, history, culture and nightlife, Istanbul is city-break gold with treasures at every turn.
Sightseeing
One of the newest attractions – the Atatürk Cultural Centre, known as AKM, in Taksim Square – opened last November.
It was designed by architect Murat Tabanlioglu, whose father Hayati created the original AKM which opened in 1969 after taking 23 years to construct. It was the first modernist building in the country, incorporating elements of the Bauhaus style, with a glass facade and free-floating staircases.
These elements have been reimagined in Murat’s design, which is split into five sections incorporating a 2,040-seat grand opera house, cinema, exhibition centre, museum, art gallery and a restaurant with views over the Bosphorus.
On the AKM’S ‘Culture Street’ visitors can read a book from the extensive library while enjoying a coffee, get involved in workshops, visit a recording studio, or children’s art centre. My favourite section was The Design Shop, full of specially created products reflecting the history of AKM.
In complete contrast to this modern masterpiece, the 1,500-year-old Hagia Sophia is a breathtaking architectural wonder with giant domes, monolithic marble columns and intricate mosaics.
Only the Pantheon in Rome has a slightly bigger dome than this, and its 40 windows which make it look as if it is floating over the building create a serene, atmospheric light.
Just south-west of this is the Basilica Cistern, the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city. It’s closed for refurbishment at the moment, but there are wooden platforms for walking tours between the marble columns beneath vaulted ceilings and there’s even the odd carp patrolling the waters.
Just a few steps away is the opulent Topkapi Palace, once the heart of the Ottoman Empire and residence of the sultans and their women of the harem for 400 years. Visitors can wander the colourful courtyards, jewel-filled treasury and beautiful gardens with ancient cypresses, roses, lawns and fountains.
The Blue Mosque is another of Istanbul’s amazingly photogenic buildings. A grand project of Sultan Ahmet I, multiple domes and six slender minarets feature on its fabulously curvy exterior. The dazzling blue Iznik tiles which cover its interior give it its unofficial name.
Then, of course, there’s the Grand Bazaar, Istanbul’s most iconic market. While a lot of the retailers have adopted the modern practice of price-setting for souvenirs such as ceramics and teapots, some will still enter into a spot of goodhumoured haggling over larger items such as textiles and rugs.
Eating out
If you can’t get enough of Istanbul’s spectacular skyline, dine out at Madam Nica. On the rooftop of The Artisan Istanbul Mgallery hotel, it overlooks the Bosphorus and serves specialities from Bozcaada island and the Aegean, such as meze and seafood.
For a traditional taste of Turkey, try Pandeli Restaurant, which dates to 1901. Decorated in bright turquoise tiles and with painted ceilings and chandeliers, it’s a buzzing lunch spot loved by tourists. Try its classic dishes of slowcooked lamb and aubergine pie, and don’t
forget the ‘kindness bite’ – a sweet ritual in Turkish culture in which diners leave the last piece of meze for their companions.
While you’re there, take a wander around the nearby Spice Bazaar, the most colourful, fragrant and fun of all of the city’s covered markets. Built in 1664, as part of the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) complex, visitors are often offered a taste of the goods on the stalls, and we sampled a whole host of treats including dried apricots, dates and oils as well as some beautiful Turkish delight.
Where to stay
The epitome of timeless elegance, the Pera Palace museum hotel was built in 1892 in Tepebasi to serve passengers from the Orient Express.
Agatha Christie is said to have disappeared from sight for 11 days during her stay here in 1926 to pen her classic detective novel Murder on the Orient Express – and they named the hotel restaurant in her honour.
Sitting in the Orient bar drinking an ‘old fashioned’ cocktail, it felt as if it could still be the 1920s – the opulent wall mirrors, polished wood panelling and chandeliers are all perfectly preserved.
Meanwhile, in the spectacular Kubbeli tea lounge, guests are entertained by a pianist under its six glass domes, and there’s also a gorgeous French patisserie.
Its wrought-iron and mahogany lift, installed in 1892 – the first electric lift in the city – is still working order. Riding it is all part of the fun.
With visitors over the years including Ernest Hemingway, Alfred Hitchcock, Jackie Onassis and Greta Garbo, who all have suites named after them, as well as the father of modern Turkey, Kemal Ataturk, who has his own dedicated museum in Room 101, hotels don’t come much more history-packed than this!