A walk on saintly ground
Heather Thomas-Smith runs Heathery Heights, an outdoor adventure and discovery company based in Lochgilphead, offering guided walking adventures, outdoor activities, training, and experiences.
She has travelled and trekked throughout the world, walked across Scotland numerous times, climbed many of its peaks and now lives in Argyll amongst the scenery she loves. All her walks can be booked as bespoke guided experiences. www.heatheryheights.co.uk
With breath-taking views southwards, Kintyre’s southern headland juts prominently towards Ireland, its ancient Old Red Sandstone and Dalradian cliffs pocked with sea caves, some, like those at Keil, lying high and dry above stunning beaches and rocky promontories.
It is easy to forget that sea levels here were some 10-12m higher as glaciers retreated and lands rebounded from the sheer force of ice.
The walk can be undertaken from Keil car park, although some may prefer to park by the road at Dunaverty Bay.
From the car park at Keil turn left along the road, you will immediately gain fantastic views south, east and west.
To the east lies Sanda, an island that has seen its share of shipwrecks, catching out vessels plying their way back and forth to the Clyde – enough that it was eventually given its own lighthouse in 1850.
This did not prevent every shipwreck but no doubt it saved far more with its presence.
Beyond is the igneous intrusion of Ailsa Craig and the distant Ayrshire coast.
To the west the bulky headland boasting the Mull of Kintyre overlooks tidal waters which can become incredibly rough with big seas running in from the Atlantic, particularly on a westerly.
The lighthouse on the Mull was built in 1788 and is worthy of a visit whilst in the area.
Here you are much closer to Ireland than the rest of mainland Scotland, roughly half the distance.
To your left you will see the Old Red Sandstone cliffs and caves on the other side of a wall. Continue for a short distance and you will see a gate on your left.
Go through this and you can take the grassy path left to go and explore the caves – watch out for low flying rock doves (pigeons)!
If there is a sea running listen carefully as you can hear the sound of the waves breaking as they echo off the cliffs.
Return towards the gate and head up some steps on your left, these will lead you to Columba’s footprints and the well.
With such close connections to Ireland it should be no surprise that this headland is associated with St Columba’s journey from Donegal to Scotland in 563AD.
St Columba’s life is well accounted for in the book “Vita Columbae” – The Life of Columba – written by the ninth Abbot of Iona Abbey, Adomnan, some 100 years after St Columba’s death.
The carved-out footprint in the Old Red Sandstone is associated with St Columba making his first landing before continuing north up the west coast and on to Iona.
The second footprint is believed to have been carved out by a local in the 19th century to add to the story (despite saying 564).
A little beyond is the well and you can look down into the cemetery over the ivy-covered wall.
Return down the steps to the road and turn left.
If you wish to visit the chapel, it is on your left.
Also given St Columba’s name, it is now a ruin, although the cemetery is still in use.
Roofless, this parish church of Kilcolmcill is believed to date