POLLEN, FUEL & AIR FILTERS

1

The bonnet can be fully raised to provide more space to work around the engine bay and reduce the risk of catching your head on the underside. After opening the bonnet, a metal release tab on each hinge needs to be pushed in to help raise the bonnet a little further.

2

The pollen filter is accessed from the nearside rear corner of the engine bay. First, a small panel has to be removed, which is secured with a few trim clips. Most of our clips had broken or were missing, but the panel could still be made secure when refitted.

3

After undoing the 10mm plastic nut, the pollen filter housing was lifted out of the engine bay and the old pollen filter extracted. It appeared to be in good condition, confirming it had been renewed. We had a new filter from Febi, so decided to change it anyway.

4

The air and fuel filters require the induction hoses across the top of the engine to be removed. First, we detached the electrical plugs for the two air mass meters and another single plug for the air temperature sensor.

5

After undoing three Jubilee clips securing the induction hoses to the air filter housings and the turbo, we carefully removed the entire assembly. It’s awkward to release, but there is a little manoeuvrability.

6

We discovered the gasket inside the induction hose connected to the turbo was damaged. It’s easily done when refitting, because you cannot see if it has been properly fitted. Luckily, we had a new gasket, so we renewed it. Surprisingly, this is an Audi part!

7

There are two air filter housings, one on each side of the engine, each secured with two E10 bolts. Once undone, the housings are quite awkward to lift out as space is tight.

8

After undoing four Torx T25 screws, we detached the lid of one of the air filter housings and removed the air filter. The air filters looked quite dirty, with plenty of leaves and debris having been drawn in, so they were renewed.

9

Before we refitted the induction hoses, we renewed the fuel filter, which is located on the top centre of the engine. First, we detached the two fuel pipes by compressing their quick-release clips.

10

The fuel filter is secured with a clamp around the top, which has to be released by undoing a 5mm allen key bolt. access is tight, but there is just enough room to manoeuvre a ¼-inch ratchet into position.

11

The old fuel filter was lifted up and out, then we fitted a replacement, attached the fuel pipes and tightened the clamp. once the air filters and hoses were refitted, we switched on the ignition a couple of times to prime the new filter, then started the engine. It fired immediately.