UNDER THE BONNET
1 POLLEN FILTER ACCESS Before delving into the engine bay proper, change the pollen filter. It’s located under the plastic trim panel on the bulkhead. The first cover is held on by three crosshead screws – undo these and you can lift the cover away completely. However, there’s another cover lurking underneath. 2 CHANGE POLLEN FILTER This second cover just hinges forward, then reach inside and pull out the old filter. With a clean but slightly damp cloth, clear as much debris and dust inside the box as you can, then put in the new filter, making sure it goes in the right way around. Now reassemble everything. 3 REMOVE AIR FILTER BOX To get at the air filter, undo both the pipes that enter and exit the filter box. The pipe under the bulkhead is joined with a Jubileetype clip, while the one at the front of the box just pushes in. Once these are free, the entire air filter box can just be pulled away. 4 CHANGE AIR FILTER There are five crosshead screws holding the air filter box cover in place. They can be pretty tight to get off – it helps to lubricate them after you’ve got them out, so they’re easier next time. Once the top is off, remove the old filter, clean out the box and drop in the new element. 5 CLEAR TOP OF ENGINE It’s easier to change the spark plugs without the air filter box in place. Unclip the pipework and electrical connector on top of the engine, then move it out of the way. The coil pack is held on by two 10mm bolts each side; undo them and pull the pack away to access the spark plugs. 6 CHANGE SPARK PLUGS You’ll need a long reach flexible spark plug socket to remove the plugs, but do so carefully as the apertures are angled, so clearance is tight. It’s a good idea to remove them with a magnetic grab, so they don’t get damaged. Replacements are NGK 4619 BKR6EZ items or equivalent. 7 CHECK BATTERY The battery is underneath a cover on the lefthand side of the engine bay and it just pulls off. There are no peepholes on the battery, just a small condition window. If it’s glowing green it means everything is healthy. Make sure the terminal connections are secure and apply a coating of protective grease. 8 CHANGE OIL FILTER The oil filter is underneath the bonnet, just to the side of the exhaust manifold. It’s best to use a long bar to get at it – you’ll need a 27mm socket to unscrew the top. Once it’s away from the car, pull off the old filter element. Spruce everything up with some spray cleaner, then clip in a new element. 9 PUT OIL FILTER BACK There should be a rubber sealing ring with the new filter – remove the old one from the top’s threads and replace it with the new one. Lubricate the new ring with a light coating of oil, to help it seal. Now screw the oil filter back in place and torque it up to 25Nm. Reassemble everything.
10 CHECK COOLANT
The coolant expansion tank is on the right-hand side of the engine bay. If it’s grimy, a torch will make it easier to see the level indicators. Coolant should be up to the ‘MAX’ mark. Check the mixture strength with a hydrometer – they can be bought quite cheaply – to ensure it’s giving adequate protection.
11 TOP UP SCREENWASH
Sprouting up from behind the coolant expansion tank is the screenwash fluid reservoir, covered by a blue cap. Capacity isn’t that large on these cars, so it can empty quite quickly, even in summer. Refill with the correct ratio of water and screenwash until the liquid reaches to the top of the neck.
12 CHECK BRAKE FLUID
The brake/clutch fluid reservoir neck nestles under the bulkhead, but it can be a bit tricky to see. So long as you can see the fluid in the neck, all should be fine. We suggest using an electronic fluid checker to make sure not too much water has been absorbed. Top up with DOT 4 fluid if required.