Re­nault Clio 1149cc four-cylin­der

Car Mechanics (UK) - - Renault Clio 1.2 16v -

7This is what the alu­minium cover looks like when re­moved; for this pho­to­graph, we left the four through-bolts in po­si­tion. Check the con­di­tion of the cover and the threads on the bolts, stor­ing them care­fully for re­assem­bly.

8The plas­tic cover panel be­tween the right-hand whee­larch and the en­gine bay is se­cured by a se­ries of plas­tic clips, which need to be care­fully eased out. These clips are eas­ily dam­aged and it may be nec­es­sary to buy re­place­ments for re­assem­bly. 9 There is no need to fully re­move the plas­tic cover panel from the whee­larch. Sim­ply ro­tate it up­wards and out of the way, leav­ing enough room to reach the lower end of the en­gine and cam­belt.

10Use an 18mm socket span­ner to slacken the bolt se­cur­ing the crank­shaft pul­ley. Note: on this Re­nault en­gine, this bolt is usu­ally far eas­ier to re­lease than on other ve­hi­cles. Ex­tract the bolt and de­tach the pul­ley from the en­gine.

11Now turn to the lower end of the cam­belt area, where there are two sep­a­rate plas­tic cov­ers. Two small bolts (10mm span­ner size) se­cure the first of these cov­ers to the en­gine. Take out both bolts, then…

12…de­tach the cover panel. This is how this panel ap­pears when viewed from the right-hand side of the en­gine bay, with the cam­era held low down within it, and at the front of the en­gine com­part­ment.

13Next to come off is this ad­di­tional plas­tic cover, lo­cated at the bot­tom of the cam­belt area. It is held in place by four bolts (10mm span­ner size). Re­move the bolts, fol­lowed by the cover, and store them safely.

14Slowly ro­tate the en­gine clock­wise viewed from the right-hand (crank­shaft pul­ley) end of the mo­tor, un­til the spe­cial tim­ing/lock­ing pin (shown here) slides through the aper­ture in the bell­hous­ing and into its hole in the fly­wheel.

15Don’t worry if you haven’t got the spe­cial tim­ing/lock­ing pin. An al­ter­na­tive is to use a suit­able bolt (in this case, with a head mea­sure­ment of 13mm across the flats).

16On this en­gine, there are no align­ment marks on the cam­belt’s camshaft sprocket or en­gine. So, with the tim­ing/ lock­ing pin/bolt in po­si­tion, as shown in Step 15, paint on your own align­ment marks.

17Now re­lease the cam­belt ten­sioner assem­bly, re­liev­ing the belt of ten­sion and en­abling it to be re­moved. We used a long 13mm ring span­ner for this job, en­abling plenty of lever­age to be ap­plied to loosen the se­cur­ing nut.

18The belt ten­sioner assem­bly is an ec­cen­tric de­sign. To re­lease ten­sion in the belt, the unit needs to be ro­tated clock­wise. If the ten­sioner assem­bly has never been moved, it may be nec­es­sary to gen­tly tap its body to en­cour­age move­ment.

19Now it is an easy mat­ter to ex­tract the old cam­belt from its sprock­ets and the ten­sioner assem­bly. This en­gine was still fit­ted with its orig­i­nal belt, which had sur­vived in re­mark­ably good con­di­tion, but it’s es­sen­tial to re­new as rec­om­mended.

20Hav­ing moved the al­ter­na­tor body out­wards to pro­vide more room, un­bolt the wa­ter pump from the en­gine. The pump is se­cured by a se­ries of bolts, eas­ily re­moved us­ing a 10mm socket span­ner (a uni­ver­sal­lyjointed socket driver bar will help).

21Un­bolt the coolant hose union from the wa­ter pump body (two bolts; 10mm span­ner size). If you haven’t al­ready drained the coolant, it will es­cape now – so make sure you have a suit­able con­tainer un­der­neath the car to catch it.

22The pump is lo­cated on two dow­els. If it has been in place for a long time, it may be reluc­tant to sep­a­rate from the en­gine. Very care­fully tap and/ or lever the pump away from the cylin­der block, tak­ing care not to dam­age the block face.

23There is plenty of room around the right-hand side of the en­gine in which to lift out the old wa­ter pump. This one looked very clean, but nev­er­the­less was suf­fer­ing from a failed seal and had been leak­ing coolant.

24We used a scraper to re­move old gas­ket ma­te­rial and sealant from the cylin­der block’s face, against which the new pump will sit. Check for pit­ting. It’s a good idea to wipe the block face with a clean rag dipped in cel­lu­lose thin­ners.


We ap­plied sealant to the new wa­ter pump’s gas­ket face and the mat­ing face on the en­gine. We sus­pect the pump had been weep­ing coolant from the gas­ket, in ad­di­tion to leak­ing from the pump it­self.


A bead of sealant ap­plied to the gas­ket face helps hold the gas­ket in po­si­tion while the new pump is in­stalled. Wipe any ex­cess sealant away from the in­side of the gas­ket, so that it doesn’t stray into the pump.


Fit the new pump, tak­ing care to align the bolt holes in the pump body with those on the en­gine. Fit the bolts and tighten a lit­tle at a time in di­ag­o­nal se­quence, un­til they are fully tight­ened.


At the point of con­tact be­tween the wa­ter pump and the hose union is a rec­tan­gu­lar rub­ber seal. Re­new this as a mat­ter of course – a new seal was pro­vided in the pur­chased wa­ter pump kit. Next, re­fit the hose/union.


The new ten­sioner assem­bly (ec­cen­tric pro­file) looks like this. The large hole vis­i­ble just to the left of the cen­tre of the unit is to en­able the assem­bly to be slid onto the stud pro­trud­ing from the cylin­der block.


The ten­sioner assem­bly is fit­ted to the stud on the cylin­der block, so that it ap­pears as shown just be­fore fit­ting the lock­ing nut. At this stage, the cam­belt has yet to be fit­ted.


The new cam­belt can now be care­fully guided over and around its sprock­ets and pul­leys, en­sur­ing that it is taut on the non-ten­sioned side. Take care not to strain the belt, nor to con­tam­i­nate it with oil, grease, etc, dur­ing in­stal­la­tion.


Cor­rectly set­ting the belt ten­sion is very im­por­tant. With the aid of a mir­ror, ini­tially ap­ply a 6mm Allen key (with the ten­sioner lock­nut loose) to ro­tate the ad­juster body an­ti­clock­wise so that the belt is ten­sioned and the ten­sioner assem­bly pointer and prongs align.


When the belt is cor­rectly ten­sioned, hold the ten­sioner assem­bly in this po­si­tion us­ing the Allen key and fully tighten the assem­bly’s lock­nut to 24Nm (18lb ft). Re-check belt ten­sion, then re­assem­ble all com­po­nents in re­verse order to dis­man­tling and ob­serv­ing the rec­om­mended torque set­tings.

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