Car Mechanics (UK) - - Diy Servicing -

Mea­sure out 5.8 litres of 5W-30 fully-syn­thetic oil, then pour into the en­gine. Run the en­gine for a minute and make sure the oil pres­sure warn­ing light doesn’t re­main il­lu­mi­nated. Switch off the en­gine, then in­spect around the drain plug and oil fil­ter for leaks. Check the oil level on the dip­stick and top up if nec­es­sary.


Check the doors can be opened from the in­side and out­side, and that all of them can be locked from the in­side and with the re­mote key-fob (cen­tral lock­ing). Prob­lems with stick­ing ex­te­rior han­dles and mal­func­tion­ing locks are a com­mon prob­lem on the X-TYPE and many other Jaguars.


If a door re­fuses to lock or un­lock, then the latch lock­ing mech­a­nism may have failed. Sec­ond­hand spares spe­cial­ists such as Euro­jag sell used latches for around £36. If the ex­te­rior han­dle sticks open, it can be re­moved, then use abra­sive pa­per to clean the plas­tic sec­tions that feed through the door.


Check in­side and out­side the rims of the wheels for kerb dam­age. In­spect the con­di­tion of the tyres’ side­walls and tread. In­flate the tyres to the rec­om­mended pres­sures – there’s a la­bel with pres­sure fig­ures on the bot­tom of the near­side B-post which can be seen with the door open.


The lower mount­ing bushes for the rear dampers can wear, re­sult­ing in a hol­low rat­tle. These can be checked us­ing a pry bar, as shown. The bush should al­low the bot­tom of the shock ab­sorber to spring back to its orig­i­nal po­si­tion af­ter re­leas­ing the pry bar. Look for signs of per­ish­ing. New bushes cost about £15, but the mount­ing bolt can seize in po­si­tion and may need to be cut off.


The rear lower arms can cor­rode, so dig around with a screw­driver to make sure they are solid. Check the in­ner and outer bushes us­ing a pry bar to make sure there’s no ex­ces­sive play. Bud­get around £88 for a new rear lower arm.


Check all the head­light and rear-light bulbs il­lu­mi­nate. The head­lights can turn opaque due to ul­tra­vi­o­let dam­age from sun­light, but can of­ten be res­cued with a head­light restora­tion kit. Ac­cess to the bulbs is from within the en­gine bay for the front lights and the boot for the rear lights.


There are anti-roll bars at the front and rear of the X-TYPE, so check the balljoints of the droplinks by wig­gling each one. Worn droplinks can re­sult in a hol­low rat­tle, es­pe­cially at the rear. Bud­get for £20-£25 per droplink. Also, wig­gle the anti-roll bars to check their mount­ing bushes (D-bushes) are not worn; these cost around £20 a set.


Check the in­ner and outer bushes of the S-shaped con­trol arms at the rear of the X-TYPE. These are known to wear, so use a pry bar to test them. Ex­pect to pay up to £50 for an after­mar­ket arm or £100 for a gen­uine Jaguar part.


Wig­gle each raised road wheel at the top and bot­tom, and from side to side, to check for play in the wheel bear­ings and up­per wish­bone bushes. Wig­gle each front road wheel left to right to check the track rod ends, then do the same at the rear. The fol­low­ing steps help to fur­ther test the sus­pen­sion for worn bushes, which is a com­mon prob­lem.


Visu­ally in­spect each coil spring for any frac­tures. Don’t place your fin­gers be­tween the coils in case you dis­turb any­thing and the spring traps them. At the front, the coil springs can be more eas­ily in­spected with the road wheels re­moved. At the rear, check the con­di­tion of the bot­tom spring pan (part of the lower sus­pen­sion arm), which can rot through.


The front mount­ing bushes for the rear trail­ing arms can per­ish. Early bushes were made of solid rub­ber, whereas later bushes have air pock­ets (voids) to make them longer­last­ing. New trail­ing arms cost £90, al­though new bushes can be sourced for as lit­tle as £10, but re­quire a hy­draulic press to fit them.


The ex­haust can cor­rode and leak around the flexi-pipe, which is lo­cated un­der­neath the ve­hi­cle, close to the cen­tre. The flexi-pipe and mid-pipe shown here cost around £130 for an after­mar­ket assem­bly. If it’s safe to do so, run the en­gine and feel around the ex­haust con­nec­tions for air leaks.


The sump pan for the en­gine is known to leak. In the­ory, this can be fixed by re­mov­ing it, clean­ing the mat­ing sur­faces and re­fit­ting it with a new gas­ket, but it’s not as easy as it sounds. The trans­fer box has to be de­tached to ac­cess all the sump bolts, so most peo­ple just put up with the leak.


Turn the steer­ing from lock-to-lock to check the con­di­tion of the front CV boots for the drive­shafts, look­ing for splits in the rub­ber. In­spect all the other CV boots for splits where dirt and wa­ter are at risk of get­ting in­side.


The oily sludge that has coated the hoses and sleev­ing shown here is caused by an oil leak from the trans­fer box. Re­moval of the trans­fer box is a ma­jor job, so most own­ers just put up with the leak. To make mat­ters worse, the filler plug can­not be ac­cessed to check the fluid level.


The valve block cover for the au­to­matic gear­box can cor­rode and be­come por­ous, re­sult­ing in an oil leak, as shown. Also, the seal can be­come brit­tle and leak. A new cover (Jaguar part num­ber C2S12087) costs about £56 from Jaguar and spe­cial­ists such as David Man­ners Group.


Look around the un­der­side of the en­gine bay for traces of pink residue, in­di­cat­ing a pos­si­ble coolant leak. The residue shown here is from the coolant ther­mo­stat. A new ther­mo­stat and hous­ing costs around £20. The ex­pan­sion tank can leak if one of the out­let con­nec­tions is frac­tured.


If there’s an oil leak from the trans­fer box and you don’t know whether the oil is low, we rec­om­mend un­do­ing the drain plug us­ing a 3/8 in ratchet, drain­ing the oil and force­fill­ing 550ml of 75W140 gear oil. The trans­fer box should hold half-a-litre, but al­low for lots of spillage, so the ex­tra 10% is needed.


The oil level in­side the rear dif­fer­en­tial can be checked by un­do­ing the in­spec­tion plug us­ing a 3/8 in-square ratchet or sim­i­lar fit­ting – space is tight. If no oil is leak­ing from here, dou­ble-check that all of the oil hasn’t drained out by con­firm­ing the level. Ac­cord­ing to Millers Oils, top it up with 75W140; the diff holds 1.2 litres.


Look through the front grille at the spiky brush-shaped pipe routed across it. This car­ries power steer­ing fluid and is known to leak at ei­ther end, so look for traces of ATF fluid. A new cooler pipe (Jaguar part num­ber C2S20483) costs £121.40 from Jaguar and spe­cial­ists such as David Man­ners Group.


Sin­gle-pis­ton calipers are fit­ted all round. Undo two 13mm slider bolts, then prise off the caliper to re­veal the brake pads. Ex­tract, in­spect and clean them (re­new the pads if they are un­evenly worn or the fric­tion ma­te­rial is 1.5mm thick or less). Be­fore re­fit­ting the pads, clean the caliper and car­rier, and ap­ply a smear of brake grease to the top and bot­tom edges (not the fric­tion ma­te­rial).


The front-to-rear brake pipes are routed un­der­neath the X-TYPE, along­side the fuel pipes. They’re open to the el­e­ments and prone to rust if un­pro­tected. The ends of the brake pipes and the metal sec­tions of some of the flexi-pipes are also known to cor­rode, along with the pipework that’s routed around the rear of the ve­hi­cle, so check all of it thor­oughly.


The hand­brake is known to seize at the caliper, so ask some­one to op­er­ate the lever in­side the ve­hi­cle while you watch the op­er­a­tion at each rear caliper. If the mech­a­nism at the caliper doesn’t move, it may be pos­si­ble to free it with pen­e­trat­ing fluid. If not, bud­get £150 for a rear brake caliper.


Use a wire brush along the en­tire length of the sills and poke around them with a blunt screw­driver. You can­not in­spect all of the sills be­cause there is a sill cover in the way. If you re­move the cov­ers, most of the fit­tings will prob­a­bly break off. If the sills are in good con­di­tion, rust-pro­tect them – don’t leave them ex­posed to the el­e­ments as they will rot out.


The brake fluid should be re­newed every two years. There’s a bleed nip­ple on each caliper, so start with the one that’s fur­thest from the master cylin­der (off­side rear), fol­lowed by the near­side rear, then the off­side front and fi­nally the near­side front. The master cylin­der is lo­cated in the near­side of the en­gine bay.

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