Hyundai Getz clutch change
The lower section of the air filter housing is next to go. Note that there is an additional securing bolt (10mm) at the rear of the casing, and that the bolt is not immediately obvious. While removed, clean the housing ready for re-installation.
Separate the upper section of the air filter housing from the lower part of the assembly, then lift it away. Withdraw the air filter element, check its condition and order a replacement if necessary. Ours was very clean and fit for re-use.
This is the general view from the left-hand end of the engine. Components that need to be removed or at least moved out of the way include the clutch slave cylinder, multiple cables and the connector for the reversing lamp switch.
There’s a support bracket beneath the air filter assembly that needs to come out, having released and removed the two securing bolts (12mm) holding the bracket to the underbonnet structure.
Before the battery tray can be lifted out, detach the cables attached to the sides and rear of the tray. A pair of pliers can be used to carefully squeeze together the legs of each clip in turn, then ease the clip through the tray wall.
Undo the two bolts (10mm) securing the base of the air filter assembly to the vehicle, then carefully detach the air trunking from the filter housing. Note that the air filter casing comprises two separate sections, upper and lower.
Having disconnected and removed the battery, release the six bolts (12mm) securing the battery tray to the underbonnet structure. Extract the bolts and store them in a labelled container for easy identification during reassembly.
Using a 12mm socket or ring spanner, detach each front brake fluid pipe from the bracket on its respective suspension leg. Make sure the flexible hoses are not strained; lengths of wire can be used as temporary supports.
Apply penetrating oil to the driveshaft splines, refit each driveshaft/hub nut in turn to protect the driveshaft threads, and temporarily replace the bolts/nuts securing the hubs to the struts. Now, using a copper-faced hammer, tap the driveshafts inwards.
Release the two bolts (12mm) securing the gearchange mechanism to the top of the transmission unit, then carefully guide the mechanism towards the rear of the engine bay. We used a rope to secure it out of the way of the gearbox.
Next to be separated is the connection for the electrically-activated speedometer. Depress the spring clip to enable the connector to be carefully eased away from the transmission casing.
The gearchange linkage on top of the transmission assembly has to be separated from it. The first step is to carefully withdraw the securing R-clip – we used a hooked implement for this – then remove the large washer from the linkage.
To drain the transmission oil, use a 24mm socket spanner on a long extension bar to apply plenty of leverage. Don’t forget to refill the transmission assembly with fresh oil on reassembly (see Important Data).
To disconnect the wiring for the reversing lamp switch, depress the plastic locking catch to separate the connector, then carefully guide the cable away from the switch and tie the wiring clear of the transmission assembly.
To avoid the need to separate each hub assembly from its lower swivel/ balljoint, which risks damaging the swivel joint and/or its gaiter, an alternative approach is to extract the two bolts (17mm) holding each hub assembly to its suspension leg.
To prevent any possibility of damaging the ABS warning lamp cables, it is best to detach them from their respective suspension legs. Applying a plastic/rubberfriendly lubricant enables them to be more easily slid from their support brackets.
Each driveshaft/hub securing nut needs to be released using a very strong 32mm socket spanner, having first withdrawn the securing split-pin. On each side of the car, remove the nut, followed by the large washer.
Release the bolts (17mm) securing the top part of the transmission to the engine. We recommend removing these before fitting the support bar across the engine bay (see Step 32). For now, leave one in place as a safety bolt.
Unscrew the series of bolts (10mm) securing the plastic cover panel to the left-hand front wheelarch, then ease the panel away from underneath the car. Ensure that this cover panel is stored away from the working area, where it cannot get damaged.
Remove the left-hand shaft from the hub with the steering on full left lock. Note: Hyundais are renowned for their driveshafts seizing within the hubs’ splined sections, due to rust. To prevent seizure, lightly apply copperbased anti-seize grease.
From under the car, release the bolts (17mm) securing the lower part of the transmission bellhousing to the engine. Leave one in place as a safety bolt – diametrically opposite to the bolt left in place above (see Step 11).
This bracket provides support for the clutch hydraulic pipe and needs to be unbolted (12mm) from the transmission. Again, leave the fluid pipework unions in situ or you will have to bleed the system of air on reassembly.
Take out the two bolts (12mm) securing the clutch slave cylinder to the bellhousing. There’s no need to separate the fluid pipework, so you don’t have to bleed the system on reassembly. Nevertheless, inspect the cylinder and dust cover for signs of leaks.
It’s not easy to access the two starter motor bolts (14mm) with their heads to the left-hand side. We recommend using a wiggle-type universal jointed socket, if available. There’s a vital earth connection on one bolt; don’t forget to refit it on reassembly.
Release and remove the bolt and nut (14mm) from the forward end of the support bar assembly serving the transmission assembly. The application of copper-based grease to the bolt on reassembly will prevent corrosion or seizure.
Remove the plate, together with the support bar. Check the condition of the support bar bushes; if they’re worn, renew the assembly. If the steel plate assembly is suffering from surface rust, it’s worth cleaning, derusting and repainting it.
There is a well-hidden bolt (17mm) at the rear of the engine/transmission (as shown). Just above this is the starter motor in a similarly tucked-away position. Note that the starter motor needs to be unbolted, but can be left loosely in place.
Unscrew the four bolts (14mm) holding the plate securing the rear end of the support bar assembly to the car. Take care to prevent the plate and support bar from dropping on top of you as the bolts are removed.
Using a long, strong lever, carefully prise each driveshaft away from the differential casing so that the complete shaft assembly can be withdrawn from the vehicle. Keep the shafts clean (eg, store them in dustbin liner bags).
Place the transmission assembly on the trolley jack and, with the aid of one or two assistants, raise the gearbox/ differential unit and refit it to the engine. Replace the remaining components in the reverse order to that used during dismantling.
Use brake cleaner fluid to remove protectant from the clutch pressure plate face, then fit the driven plate and pressure plate assembly to the flywheel. Use a centralising tool, and fit the bolts. Tighten them a little at a time, in diagonal sequence, to 12-15Nm (9-11lb ft).
To prevent the engine from dropping as the transmission assembly and its mountings are removed, it must be supported. We used a purpose-designed bar assembly that sits between the inner wing tops; the engine was roped to a hook attached to the bar.
Before attempting to fit the new clutch driven plate and pressure plate assembly, it’s a good idea to compare the old and new components to ensure compatibility. Also check that the new driven plate slides easily onto the gearbox splines.
To provide greater clearance as the transmission assembly is lowered, we unbolted and removed the support bracket at the rear (three bolts; 17mm). It is also necessary to unbolt remaining electrical cables (14mm) from the rear of the unit.
Carefully ease the clutch slave cylinder (still attached to its fluid pipe) clear of the transmission unit and up towards the top left-hand side of the engine bay. The cylinder and nearby cables can be temporarily tied in place here.
With the gearbox out of the way, carefully unscrew and, in diagonal sequence, remove the six bolts (12mm) securing the clutch pressure plate assembly and driven plate to the flywheel. Note that these clutch components are heavy.
Check that all attachments have been removed from the transmission assembly and all securing bolts (including the two safety ones) have been taken out. Detach the gearbox – it may be tight on the dowels – and lower it to the floor on the jack.
Carefully unhook the release bearing from the clutch fork in the bellhousing, then inspect the condition/ operation of the fork assembly. Install the new release bearing, ensuring that it is fully located on the clutch fork.
Withdraw the clutch pressure plate assembly and the driven plate, then inspect the flywheel surface for any signs of damage. Our car’s flywheel was fine, but the friction material on the driven plate was worn down to the rivets.
With a trolley jack under the transmission, undo the three bolts (17mm) securing the mounting bracket to the gearbox, plus the two horizontal bolts (14mm) holding the bracket to the mounting. Detach the plate from the engine front (10mm).