Hyundai Getz clutch change

Car Mechanics (UK) - - Clutch Clinic Hyundai Getz 1.4 -

The lower sec­tion of the air fil­ter hous­ing is next to go. Note that there is an ad­di­tional se­cur­ing bolt (10mm) at the rear of the cas­ing, and that the bolt is not im­me­di­ately ob­vi­ous. While re­moved, clean the hous­ing ready for re-in­stal­la­tion.

Sep­a­rate the up­per sec­tion of the air fil­ter hous­ing from the lower part of the assem­bly, then lift it away. With­draw the air fil­ter el­e­ment, check its con­di­tion and or­der a re­place­ment if nec­es­sary. Ours was very clean and fit for re-use.

This is the gen­eral view from the left-hand end of the en­gine. Com­po­nents that need to be re­moved or at least moved out of the way in­clude the clutch slave cylin­der, mul­ti­ple ca­bles and the con­nec­tor for the re­vers­ing lamp switch.

There’s a sup­port bracket be­neath the air fil­ter assem­bly that needs to come out, hav­ing re­leased and re­moved the two se­cur­ing bolts (12mm) hold­ing the bracket to the un­der­bon­net struc­ture.

Be­fore the bat­tery tray can be lifted out, de­tach the ca­bles at­tached to the sides and rear of the tray. A pair of pli­ers can be used to care­fully squeeze to­gether the legs of each clip in turn, then ease the clip through the tray wall.

Undo the two bolts (10mm) se­cur­ing the base of the air fil­ter assem­bly to the ve­hi­cle, then care­fully de­tach the air trunk­ing from the fil­ter hous­ing. Note that the air fil­ter cas­ing com­prises two sep­a­rate sec­tions, up­per and lower.

Hav­ing dis­con­nected and re­moved the bat­tery, re­lease the six bolts (12mm) se­cur­ing the bat­tery tray to the un­der­bon­net struc­ture. Ex­tract the bolts and store them in a la­belled con­tainer for easy iden­ti­fi­ca­tion dur­ing re­assem­bly.

Us­ing a 12mm socket or ring span­ner, de­tach each front brake fluid pipe from the bracket on its re­spec­tive sus­pen­sion leg. Make sure the flex­i­ble hoses are not strained; lengths of wire can be used as tem­po­rary sup­ports.

Ap­ply pen­e­trat­ing oil to the drive­shaft splines, re­fit each drive­shaft/hub nut in turn to pro­tect the drive­shaft threads, and tem­po­rar­ily re­place the bolts/nuts se­cur­ing the hubs to the struts. Now, us­ing a cop­per-faced ham­mer, tap the drive­shafts in­wards.

Re­lease the two bolts (12mm) se­cur­ing the gearchange mech­a­nism to the top of the trans­mis­sion unit, then care­fully guide the mech­a­nism to­wards the rear of the en­gine bay. We used a rope to se­cure it out of the way of the gear­box.

Next to be sep­a­rated is the con­nec­tion for the elec­tri­cally-ac­ti­vated speedome­ter. De­press the spring clip to en­able the con­nec­tor to be care­fully eased away from the trans­mis­sion cas­ing.

The gearchange link­age on top of the trans­mis­sion assem­bly has to be sep­a­rated from it. The first step is to care­fully with­draw the se­cur­ing R-clip – we used a hooked im­ple­ment for this – then re­move the large washer from the link­age.

To drain the trans­mis­sion oil, use a 24mm socket span­ner on a long ex­ten­sion bar to ap­ply plenty of lever­age. Don’t for­get to re­fill the trans­mis­sion assem­bly with fresh oil on re­assem­bly (see Im­por­tant Data).

To dis­con­nect the wiring for the re­vers­ing lamp switch, de­press the plas­tic lock­ing catch to sep­a­rate the con­nec­tor, then care­fully guide the cable away from the switch and tie the wiring clear of the trans­mis­sion assem­bly.

To avoid the need to sep­a­rate each hub assem­bly from its lower swivel/ balljoint, which risks dam­ag­ing the swivel joint and/or its gaiter, an al­ter­na­tive ap­proach is to ex­tract the two bolts (17mm) hold­ing each hub assem­bly to its sus­pen­sion leg.

To pre­vent any pos­si­bil­ity of dam­ag­ing the ABS warn­ing lamp ca­bles, it is best to de­tach them from their re­spec­tive sus­pen­sion legs. Ap­ply­ing a plas­tic/rub­ber­friendly lu­bri­cant en­ables them to be more eas­ily slid from their sup­port brack­ets.

Each drive­shaft/hub se­cur­ing nut needs to be re­leased us­ing a very strong 32mm socket span­ner, hav­ing first with­drawn the se­cur­ing split-pin. On each side of the car, re­move the nut, fol­lowed by the large washer.

Re­lease the bolts (17mm) se­cur­ing the top part of the trans­mis­sion to the en­gine. We rec­om­mend re­mov­ing these be­fore fit­ting the sup­port bar across the en­gine bay (see Step 32). For now, leave one in place as a safety bolt.

Un­screw the se­ries of bolts (10mm) se­cur­ing the plas­tic cover panel to the left-hand front whee­larch, then ease the panel away from un­der­neath the car. En­sure that this cover panel is stored away from the work­ing area, where it can­not get dam­aged.

Re­move the left-hand shaft from the hub with the steer­ing on full left lock. Note: Hyundais are renowned for their drive­shafts seiz­ing within the hubs’ splined sec­tions, due to rust. To pre­vent seizure, lightly ap­ply cop­per­based anti-seize grease.

From un­der the car, re­lease the bolts (17mm) se­cur­ing the lower part of the trans­mis­sion bell­hous­ing to the en­gine. Leave one in place as a safety bolt – di­a­met­ri­cally op­po­site to the bolt left in place above (see Step 11).

This bracket pro­vides sup­port for the clutch hy­draulic pipe and needs to be un­bolted (12mm) from the trans­mis­sion. Again, leave the fluid pipework unions in situ or you will have to bleed the sys­tem of air on re­assem­bly.

Take out the two bolts (12mm) se­cur­ing the clutch slave cylin­der to the bell­hous­ing. There’s no need to sep­a­rate the fluid pipework, so you don’t have to bleed the sys­tem on re­assem­bly. Nev­er­the­less, in­spect the cylin­der and dust cover for signs of leaks.

It’s not easy to ac­cess the two starter mo­tor bolts (14mm) with their heads to the left-hand side. We rec­om­mend us­ing a wig­gle-type uni­ver­sal jointed socket, if avail­able. There’s a vi­tal earth con­nec­tion on one bolt; don’t for­get to re­fit it on re­assem­bly.

Re­lease and re­move the bolt and nut (14mm) from the for­ward end of the sup­port bar assem­bly serv­ing the trans­mis­sion assem­bly. The ap­pli­ca­tion of cop­per-based grease to the bolt on re­assem­bly will pre­vent cor­ro­sion or seizure.

Re­move the plate, to­gether with the sup­port bar. Check the con­di­tion of the sup­port bar bushes; if they’re worn, re­new the assem­bly. If the steel plate assem­bly is suf­fer­ing from sur­face rust, it’s worth clean­ing, derust­ing and re­paint­ing it.

There is a well-hid­den bolt (17mm) at the rear of the en­gine/trans­mis­sion (as shown). Just above this is the starter mo­tor in a sim­i­larly tucked-away po­si­tion. Note that the starter mo­tor needs to be un­bolted, but can be left loosely in place.

Un­screw the four bolts (14mm) hold­ing the plate se­cur­ing the rear end of the sup­port bar assem­bly to the car. Take care to pre­vent the plate and sup­port bar from drop­ping on top of you as the bolts are re­moved.

Us­ing a long, strong lever, care­fully prise each drive­shaft away from the dif­fer­en­tial cas­ing so that the com­plete shaft assem­bly can be with­drawn from the ve­hi­cle. Keep the shafts clean (eg, store them in dust­bin liner bags).

Place the trans­mis­sion assem­bly on the trol­ley jack and, with the aid of one or two as­sis­tants, raise the gear­box/ dif­fer­en­tial unit and re­fit it to the en­gine. Re­place the re­main­ing com­po­nents in the re­verse or­der to that used dur­ing dis­man­tling.

Use brake cleaner fluid to re­move pro­tec­tant from the clutch pres­sure plate face, then fit the driven plate and pres­sure plate assem­bly to the fly­wheel. Use a cen­tral­is­ing tool, and fit the bolts. Tighten them a lit­tle at a time, in di­ag­o­nal se­quence, to 12-15Nm (9-11lb ft).

To pre­vent the en­gine from drop­ping as the trans­mis­sion assem­bly and its mount­ings are re­moved, it must be sup­ported. We used a pur­pose-de­signed bar assem­bly that sits be­tween the in­ner wing tops; the en­gine was roped to a hook at­tached to the bar.

Be­fore at­tempt­ing to fit the new clutch driven plate and pres­sure plate assem­bly, it’s a good idea to com­pare the old and new com­po­nents to en­sure com­pat­i­bil­ity. Also check that the new driven plate slides eas­ily onto the gear­box splines.

To pro­vide greater clear­ance as the trans­mis­sion assem­bly is low­ered, we un­bolted and re­moved the sup­port bracket at the rear (three bolts; 17mm). It is also nec­es­sary to un­bolt re­main­ing elec­tri­cal ca­bles (14mm) from the rear of the unit.

Care­fully ease the clutch slave cylin­der (still at­tached to its fluid pipe) clear of the trans­mis­sion unit and up to­wards the top left-hand side of the en­gine bay. The cylin­der and nearby ca­bles can be tem­po­rar­ily tied in place here.

With the gear­box out of the way, care­fully un­screw and, in di­ag­o­nal se­quence, re­move the six bolts (12mm) se­cur­ing the clutch pres­sure plate assem­bly and driven plate to the fly­wheel. Note that these clutch com­po­nents are heavy.

Check that all at­tach­ments have been re­moved from the trans­mis­sion assem­bly and all se­cur­ing bolts (in­clud­ing the two safety ones) have been taken out. De­tach the gear­box – it may be tight on the dow­els – and lower it to the floor on the jack.

Care­fully un­hook the re­lease bear­ing from the clutch fork in the bell­hous­ing, then in­spect the con­di­tion/ op­er­a­tion of the fork assem­bly. In­stall the new re­lease bear­ing, en­sur­ing that it is fully lo­cated on the clutch fork.

With­draw the clutch pres­sure plate assem­bly and the driven plate, then in­spect the fly­wheel sur­face for any signs of dam­age. Our car’s fly­wheel was fine, but the fric­tion ma­te­rial on the driven plate was worn down to the riv­ets.

With a trol­ley jack un­der the trans­mis­sion, undo the three bolts (17mm) se­cur­ing the mount­ing bracket to the gear­box, plus the two hor­i­zon­tal bolts (14mm) hold­ing the bracket to the mount­ing. De­tach the plate from the en­gine front (10mm).

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