Peu­geot 206 CC 1587cc four-cylin­der

Car Mechanics (UK) - - Timing Belt Clinic Peugeot 206 CC 1.6 -

9 Take out the three Torx bolts (T47) hold­ing the in­ter­me­di­ate bracket to the sep­a­rate bracket that is bolted to the en­gine (note that this sep­a­rate bracket will also need to be de­tached from the en­gine to re­lease the up­per cover pro­tect­ing the tim­ing belt).

10 The in­ter­me­di­ate bracket, com­plete with wiring loom clip, can now be ex­tracted from the en­gine bay, leav­ing the way clear for sub­se­quent op­er­a­tions around the right-hand end of the en­gine, where the tim­ing belt and wa­ter pump are lo­cated.

11 With the brack­ets out of the way, the mount­ing as­sem­bly at­tached to the in­ner wing can now be in­spected; re­new it if there are signs of de­te­ri­o­ra­tion. Note that the U-shaped guide can be left undis­turbed if the mount­ing as­sem­bly is in good con­di­tion.

12 We used an elec­tri­cal­ly­op­er­ated driver to re­lease the three bolts (13mm) hold­ing the pul­ley to the crank­shaft, but they can usu­ally be un­done us­ing hand tools. If the pul­ley is se­cured by three bolts there’s no need to re­lease the larger cen­tral bolt.

13 With its se­cur­ing bolts re­moved, the crank­shaft pul­ley can be with­drawn from be­low the car. As can be seen, the cen­tral bolt re­mains in place on the en­gine. In­spect the pul­ley for dam­age – this one was in good con­di­tion and fit for re­use.

14 Next, loosen the five bolts (6mm) se­cur­ing the up­per cover pro­tect­ing the cam­belt. Th­ese are stepped head-type bolts and deeply shrouded within the cover. Note that the up­per cover must come off be­fore tack­ling the lower cover.

15 Be­fore the up­per cover for the cam­belt can be re­moved, it’s nec­es­sary to un­bolt (Torx T47) and re­move the en­gine mount­ing as­sem­bly sup­port bracket from the en­gine. Note the long threads en­coun­tered here.

16 Once un­bolted, it’s an easy job to de­tach the bracket from the en­gine and lift it clear, but be aware that the sec­tion of wiring loom to­wards the rear of the en­gine com­part­ment will have to be de­tached and moved out of the way care­fully.

17 The tim­ing belt’s up­per cover can fi­nally be re­leased and guided out of the en­gine bay. This job re­quires two hands – one to hold the cover and one to gen­tly grasp the loom and to hold it clear of the cover.

18 From un­der­neath the ve­hi­cle, and work­ing through the in­ner wing area, the tim­ing belt’s lower cover can be un­bolted (10mm socket) and re­moved from the en­gine, giv­ing rel­a­tively un­hin­dered ac­cess to the cam­belt and wa­ter pump.

19 A pre­vi­ous op­er­a­tor had made tim­ing marks on the camshaft sprock­ets and the en­gine, but we made our own with blue paint, hav­ing aligned the tim­ing aper­tures in the sprock­ets with those in the cylin­der­head, in­sert­ing two 13mm bolts (cir­cled) to lock the sprock­ets.

20 We also opted to make our own da­tum marks in blue paint at the crank­shaft and on the en­gine ad­ja­cent to it, just in case the marks made here pre­vi­ously may not have been en­tirely ac­cu­rate.

21 Next, re­lease the nut (13mm) se­cur­ing the tim­ing belt ten­sioner as­sem­bly, eas­ing belt ten­sion in or­der to re­move the old cam­belt. Note also the wa­ter pump sprocket, vis­i­ble here just be­low and slightly to the left of the ten­sioner.

22 Tak­ing care not to trap your fin­gers, ease the old drive­belt from its sprock­ets and pul­leys. In our case, the belt ap­peared to still be in ex­cel­lent con­di­tion, but be­ing un­sure of the mileage/time pe­riod, we opted to fit a new belt kit for peace of mind.

23 With the belt out of the way, it is a straight­for­ward job to re­lease the two bolts (13mm) at the top and the bot­tom of the wa­ter pump. Ac­cess is a bit tight, but the pump can be reached fairly eas­ily from above.

24 In this case (and on other sim­i­lar Peu­geot mod­els), the wa­ter pump is easy to de­tach from its mount­ing face. How­ever, if you en­counter any re­sis­tance when try­ing to re­move it then gen­tly tap the pump body to dis­lodge it.

25 Make sure the mount­ing face on the cylin­derblock is scrupu­lously clean, then in­stall the re­place­ment wa­ter pump, to­gether with the new seal­ing O-ring that should be sup­plied with it. Fit and tighten the se­cur­ing bolts evenly, a lit­tle at a time.

26 A new idler pul­ley was pro­vided with the wa­ter pump/tim­ing belt kit we were fit­ting – it’s al­ways a good idea to re­new the pul­ley at the same time as the other com­po­nents. A 6mm Allen key is needed to re­lease and re­move the se­cur­ing bolt.

27 The old idler pul­ley was with­drawn from un­der­neath the car. In this photo, the re­mains of the old thread seal­ing com­pound used on the se­cur­ing bolt is vis­i­ble. The new pul­ley’s re­tain­ing bolt came pre-ap­plied with fresh thread sealant…

28 …as shown here. In fact, this pho­to­graph was taken just be­fore we cleaned out the thread in the aper­ture and in­stalled the new pul­ley/bolt as­sem­bly, to show the rel­a­tive po­si­tions of the pul­ley and sur­round­ing sprock­ets.

29 This is the new tim­ing belt ten­sioner as­sem­bly, viewed from the out­side face. It shows the lock­ing pin (on the left in the photo) and the aper­ture for the Allen key used when set­ting the drive­belt ten­sion.

30 The ten­sioner as­sem­bly is care­fully eased into po­si­tion, mak­ing sure that the slot in the plate as­sem­bly at the rear of the pump fits over the spigot on the en­gine. For clar­ity, it has been high­lighted here with a dab of blue paint.

31 Now the ten­sioner as­sem­bly can be se­cured by ini­tially tight­en­ing the new se­cur­ing nut (not very tight at this stage), with the ten­sioner as­sem­bly in its ‘min­i­mum pres­sure’ po­si­tion (ie, ap­ply­ing the least pres­sure to the new belt, when fit­ted).

32 The new belt is shown here be­ing po­si­tioned so that the ar­rows in­di­cat­ing the di­rec­tion of ro­ta­tion are point­ing clock­wise when view­ing the en­gine from the right-hand end. There are also align­ment lines on the belt, if needed.

33 The new belt can now be guided onto the sprock­ets and pul­leys. If you’re work­ing on your own and the belt tries to drop be­cause it is dif­fi­cult to hold in po­si­tion on the crank sprocket, use a pad of cloth to wedge the belt up against the sprocket.

34 Fol­low the belt-fit­ting se­quence de­tailed in ‘fit­ting/ten­sion­ing the new cam­belt’ and en­sure that the belt teeth are fully en­gaged with those on the drive sprock­ets. Also con­firm that the belt is not twisted when fit­ted.

35 With the belt in po­si­tion, the nut hold­ing the ten­sioner as­sem­bly to the en­gine can be slack­ened and the lock­ing pin can be with­drawn from the ten­sioner, so that pres­sure is then ap­plied to the belt.

36 Ap­ply pres­sure to the belt us­ing a 6mm Allen key. Ro­tate the key an­ti­clock­wise to in­crease belt ten­sion, while ob­serv­ing the pointer to the rear of the ten­sioner pul­ley and the slot­ted plate be­hind it. Once…

37 …the ten­sion is cor­rect, the pointer will be vis­i­ble in the cen­tre of the slot just be­hind it, when viewed square-on, as shown. En­sure this is cor­rect – it’s not easy to assess ac­cu­rately due to lack of space.

38 Next, retighten the lock­nut while hold­ing the ten­sioner as­sem­bly still, us­ing a 6mm Allen key. Con­firm that the pointer is still in the cor­rect po­si­tion against its slot; if not, re­peat the pro­ce­dure un­til it is.

39 Re­move the camshaft sprocket align­ment bolts then, us­ing a 22mm span­ner on the crank­shaft’s cen­tral bolt head, ro­tate the en­gine slowly through 360° and con­firm that the lock­ing bolts/align­ment marks still align per­fectly.

40 Re­assem­ble in the re­verse or­der to that used when dis­man­tling, ob­serv­ing all torque rec­om­men­da­tions. Note: The lower cover for the tim­ing belt has to be re­fit­ted be­fore the up­per one can be put in place. Re­fill with coolant and start the en­gine, check­ing for leaks.

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