Peugeot 206 CC 1587cc four-cylinder
9 Take out the three Torx bolts (T47) holding the intermediate bracket to the separate bracket that is bolted to the engine (note that this separate bracket will also need to be detached from the engine to release the upper cover protecting the timing belt).
10 The intermediate bracket, complete with wiring loom clip, can now be extracted from the engine bay, leaving the way clear for subsequent operations around the right-hand end of the engine, where the timing belt and water pump are located.
11 With the brackets out of the way, the mounting assembly attached to the inner wing can now be inspected; renew it if there are signs of deterioration. Note that the U-shaped guide can be left undisturbed if the mounting assembly is in good condition.
12 We used an electricallyoperated driver to release the three bolts (13mm) holding the pulley to the crankshaft, but they can usually be undone using hand tools. If the pulley is secured by three bolts there’s no need to release the larger central bolt.
13 With its securing bolts removed, the crankshaft pulley can be withdrawn from below the car. As can be seen, the central bolt remains in place on the engine. Inspect the pulley for damage – this one was in good condition and fit for reuse.
14 Next, loosen the five bolts (6mm) securing the upper cover protecting the cambelt. These are stepped head-type bolts and deeply shrouded within the cover. Note that the upper cover must come off before tackling the lower cover.
15 Before the upper cover for the cambelt can be removed, it’s necessary to unbolt (Torx T47) and remove the engine mounting assembly support bracket from the engine. Note the long threads encountered here.
16 Once unbolted, it’s an easy job to detach the bracket from the engine and lift it clear, but be aware that the section of wiring loom towards the rear of the engine compartment will have to be detached and moved out of the way carefully.
17 The timing belt’s upper cover can finally be released and guided out of the engine bay. This job requires two hands – one to hold the cover and one to gently grasp the loom and to hold it clear of the cover.
18 From underneath the vehicle, and working through the inner wing area, the timing belt’s lower cover can be unbolted (10mm socket) and removed from the engine, giving relatively unhindered access to the cambelt and water pump.
19 A previous operator had made timing marks on the camshaft sprockets and the engine, but we made our own with blue paint, having aligned the timing apertures in the sprockets with those in the cylinderhead, inserting two 13mm bolts (circled) to lock the sprockets.
20 We also opted to make our own datum marks in blue paint at the crankshaft and on the engine adjacent to it, just in case the marks made here previously may not have been entirely accurate.
21 Next, release the nut (13mm) securing the timing belt tensioner assembly, easing belt tension in order to remove the old cambelt. Note also the water pump sprocket, visible here just below and slightly to the left of the tensioner.
22 Taking care not to trap your fingers, ease the old drivebelt from its sprockets and pulleys. In our case, the belt appeared to still be in excellent condition, but being unsure of the mileage/time period, we opted to fit a new belt kit for peace of mind.
23 With the belt out of the way, it is a straightforward job to release the two bolts (13mm) at the top and the bottom of the water pump. Access is a bit tight, but the pump can be reached fairly easily from above.
24 In this case (and on other similar Peugeot models), the water pump is easy to detach from its mounting face. However, if you encounter any resistance when trying to remove it then gently tap the pump body to dislodge it.
25 Make sure the mounting face on the cylinderblock is scrupulously clean, then install the replacement water pump, together with the new sealing O-ring that should be supplied with it. Fit and tighten the securing bolts evenly, a little at a time.
26 A new idler pulley was provided with the water pump/timing belt kit we were fitting – it’s always a good idea to renew the pulley at the same time as the other components. A 6mm Allen key is needed to release and remove the securing bolt.
27 The old idler pulley was withdrawn from underneath the car. In this photo, the remains of the old thread sealing compound used on the securing bolt is visible. The new pulley’s retaining bolt came pre-applied with fresh thread sealant…
28 …as shown here. In fact, this photograph was taken just before we cleaned out the thread in the aperture and installed the new pulley/bolt assembly, to show the relative positions of the pulley and surrounding sprockets.
29 This is the new timing belt tensioner assembly, viewed from the outside face. It shows the locking pin (on the left in the photo) and the aperture for the Allen key used when setting the drivebelt tension.
30 The tensioner assembly is carefully eased into position, making sure that the slot in the plate assembly at the rear of the pump fits over the spigot on the engine. For clarity, it has been highlighted here with a dab of blue paint.
31 Now the tensioner assembly can be secured by initially tightening the new securing nut (not very tight at this stage), with the tensioner assembly in its ‘minimum pressure’ position (ie, applying the least pressure to the new belt, when fitted).
32 The new belt is shown here being positioned so that the arrows indicating the direction of rotation are pointing clockwise when viewing the engine from the right-hand end. There are also alignment lines on the belt, if needed.
33 The new belt can now be guided onto the sprockets and pulleys. If you’re working on your own and the belt tries to drop because it is difficult to hold in position on the crank sprocket, use a pad of cloth to wedge the belt up against the sprocket.
34 Follow the belt-fitting sequence detailed in ‘fitting/tensioning the new cambelt’ and ensure that the belt teeth are fully engaged with those on the drive sprockets. Also confirm that the belt is not twisted when fitted.
35 With the belt in position, the nut holding the tensioner assembly to the engine can be slackened and the locking pin can be withdrawn from the tensioner, so that pressure is then applied to the belt.
36 Apply pressure to the belt using a 6mm Allen key. Rotate the key anticlockwise to increase belt tension, while observing the pointer to the rear of the tensioner pulley and the slotted plate behind it. Once…
37 …the tension is correct, the pointer will be visible in the centre of the slot just behind it, when viewed square-on, as shown. Ensure this is correct – it’s not easy to assess accurately due to lack of space.
38 Next, retighten the locknut while holding the tensioner assembly still, using a 6mm Allen key. Confirm that the pointer is still in the correct position against its slot; if not, repeat the procedure until it is.
39 Remove the camshaft sprocket alignment bolts then, using a 22mm spanner on the crankshaft’s central bolt head, rotate the engine slowly through 360° and confirm that the locking bolts/alignment marks still align perfectly.
40 Reassemble in the reverse order to that used when dismantling, observing all torque recommendations. Note: The lower cover for the timing belt has to be refitted before the upper one can be put in place. Refill with coolant and start the engine, checking for leaks.