UN­DER­BON­NET CHECKS

Car Mechanics (UK) - - DIY Servicing 2012 Range Rover Evoque 2.2 SD4 auto -

1 CHECK COOLANT

The coolant ex­pan­sion tank is on the right-hand side of the en­gine bay. It’s trans­par­ent, so the coolant level can be con­firmed through the cas­ing. It’s a good idea to check the strength of the an­tifreeze us­ing a hy­drom­e­ter. If top­ping up with red an­tifreeze, use a fun­nel to avoid spillage.

2 TOP UP SCREENWASH

Screenwash gets used up sur­pris­ingly quickly. Even if there’s no dash­board warn­ing, it’s a good move to top it up. The reser­voir is ad­ja­cent to the coolant ex­pan­sion tank. Pop off the blue cap and fill with the ap­pro­pri­ate mix of screenwash and wa­ter un­til the fluid reaches the neck top.

3 AUX­IL­IARY DRIVE­BELT

There’s not much room to check the aux­il­iary drive­belt, down on the right-hand side of the en­gine. You’ll need a torch to see it prop­erly. Make sure there’s no fray­ing, tear­ing or sig­nif­i­cant crack­ing. Re­gard­ing ten­sion, there should be no more than a quar­ter- or half-turn be­tween pul­leys.

4 CHECK BAT­TERY

The bat­tery is un­der­neath a cover up by the bulk­head. It’s held on by four plas­tic trim clips. Undo th­ese, then lift the cover. Make sure the bat­tery ter­mi­nals are se­cure and coat them with ei­ther spray grease or pe­tro­leum jelly for pro­tec­tive pur­poses. There is a check win­dow in­di­cat­ing bat­tery con­di­tion.

5 RE­MOVE AIR FIL­TER TOP

The air fil­ter box is ad­ja­cent to the bat­tery. Its cover is held in place by six Philips screws, but you’ll also need to undo the Ju­bilee clip that holds the plas­tic pipe in place. To be on the safe side, dis­con­nect the wiring to the mass air­flow (MAF) sen­sor by pulling out the red clip (see in­set pic).

6 CHANGE AIR FIL­TER

Clean out the air fil­ter box with an old cloth and re­move any de­bris that has col­lected in there – it’s sur­pris­ing how much dust and leaves can ac­cu­mu­late in­side. Com­pare the new fil­ter to the old one, to make sure it’s the right one, and then fit it in place. Now re­assem­ble.

7 CHECK BRAKE FLUID

The brake/clutch mas­ter cylin­der is in a re­cess in the scut­tle, un­der­neath a cover. Re­lease the catch, then pull up the cover to re­move it. Clean the cap and take it off to ver­ify that the fluid is be­tween the ‘MIN’ and ‘MAX’ marks. If you have one, use an elec­tronic fluid checker to test the DOT 4 strength.

8 CHECK FOR LEAKS

As far as pos­si­ble, check all hoses, pipework and wiring for any ob­vi­ous is­sues. It will help to re­move the plas­tic en­gine cover, to al­low you to see more. The cover is held in place by two bolts, af­ter which it just lifts away. Also have a look at the en­gine mount­ings to ver­ify they’re not dam­aged.

9 RE­MOVE UNDERTRAY

The front of the en­gine is pro­tected by a plas­tic shroud. To get proper ac­cess, you’ll need to re­move it. It’s held on by seven 10mm bolts – as­sum­ing they’re all there and haven’t been sub­sti­tuted for cable ties. Store the bolts care­fully so you don’t lose any of them.

10 CHECK UN­DER­BODY

Once the tray is out of the way, give the un­der­neath of the car a thor­ough check. You should be keep­ing an eye out for any signs of dam­age or cor­ro­sion. Spe­cific ar­eas to fo­cus on in­clude the full length of the ex­haust, its mount­ings and shields (work­ing loose or go­ing rusty), and ex­posed brake and fuel lines.

11 DRAIN EN­GINE OIL

Oil should be drained when warm, but not hot, oth­er­wise there’s a risk of scald­ing. You’ll need a 21mm socket to undo the oil drain plug, which is on the bot­tom of the sump, plus a con­tainer un­der­neath suf­fi­cient to hold the near six litres of oil that will come out. Dis­pose of in an en­vi­ron­men­tally-friendly way.

12 RE­MOVE OIL FIL­TER

Re­mov­ing the oil fil­ter is far from easy – it’s right at the front of the en­gine with very lit­tle clear­ance. You’ll need to some­how work in a 27mm socket to re­move it. Once you’ve loos­ened it, ex­tract it slowly by hand, to min­imise oil splat­ter. Clean up with old cloths.

13 CHANGE OIL FIL­TER

With the oil fil­ter off, re­move the old rub­ber seal­ing ring and re­place it with the one that should have been sup­plied with the new fil­ter. Clean ev­ery­thing, then un­clip the old fil­ter el­e­ment and clip in the new one. Ap­ply some grease to the cap threads, then fol­low the Top Tip process above.

14 RE­FILL EN­GINE OIL

Re­fill the en­gine oil via the filler cap un­der the bon­net, us­ing a fun­nel to avoid spillage. Ca­pac­ity is 5.9 litres of 5W-40 fullysyn­thetic low ash oil. Go steady when you’re fill­ing and keep check­ing the dip­stick. Start the en­gine briefly to al­low it to cir­cu­late, then check un­der­neath for any leaks.

15 CHECK WHEELS & TYRES

When the wheels are off the ground, check all the tyres for crack­ing, kerb­ing, bulging, cuts and pro­trud­ing for­eign ob­jects. Make sure the tyres are road le­gal, with at least 2mm of even tread. Rock the wheels top to bot­tom to check for play, then spin them; a low drone de­notes a worn bear­ing.

16 LOCK­ING WHEELNUTS

This Range Rover comes with lock­ing wheelnuts. Make sure you have the key tool – the boot is the de­fault lo­ca­tion, but if you’re not the car’s first owner, it could have been moved else­where. Al­ways undo the lock­ing wheel­nut with a long bar, oth­er­wise it can pull out the teeth.

17 SUS­PEN­SION CHECKS

With the wheels off, check the sus­pen­sion for any prob­lems, front and rear. Spe­cific ar­eas to fo­cus on in­clude the springs, gaiters and anti-roll bar bushes, which have a ten­dency to wear out due to ve­hi­cle weight. Try to see if there’s any sig­nif­i­cant play. Use a torch and mir­ror to check for prob­lems.

18 CLEAN BRAKES

Turn­ing to the brakes, clean them with a wire bush and pro­pri­etary brake cleaner spray. You can turn the disc rim against a flat-blade screw­driver to re­move any ex­cess rust (at least at the front – the rears will be locked by the elec­tronic park­ing brake). Also check for a lip form­ing on the disc as it wears out.

19 CHECK BRAKES

Be­cause this wasn’t a full ser­vice, the pads were checked vis­ually for ad­e­quate thick­ness through the cut-out in the caliper, rather than the caliper it­self be­ing re­moved. If you want to do a more thor­ough job and clean the pads, undo the two rear caliper bolts (cov­ered by plas­tic caps) and lift the caliper away.

20 CLEAN & LUBRICATE PADS

If you have re­moved the calipers to clean and lubricate the pads, make sure there’s at least 3mm of fric­tion ma­te­rial left and they’re free from any oil or grease con­tam­i­na­tion. Clean them by rub­bing their fronts against abra­sive pa­per on a flat sur­face, and also ap­ply some grease to their rears and mount­ing lugs.

21 LUBRICATE WHEELS

When you come to put the wheels back on, lubricate the in­ner hub flange with cop­per grease, putting some dabs on the wheel­nut threads as well. Do the bolts up quite tightly be­fore low­er­ing the car, then torque them up to 133Nm once the wheels are in con­tact with the ground.

22 RE-AT­TACH UNDERTRAY

Af­ter you’ve fin­ished all the jobs un­der­neath the ve­hi­cle, reat­tach the undertray. We rec­om­mend ap­ply­ing some cop­per grease to both the bolt holes and the bolts them­selves. Put all the bolts on fin­ger-tight, to make sure the tray sits prop­erly, then tighten them prop­erly with a 10mm socket.

23 CHECK REAR SUS­PEN­SION

Once the back wheels are off, re­peat the same checks with the sus­pen­sion and brake lines as you car­ried out at the fronts. This should also in­clude the springs, gaiters, bushes and any wiring. Here, for ex­am­ple, the in­su­la­tion at­tached to a brake sen­sor has be­come a lit­tle ragged and needs keep­ing an eye on.

24 CHECK REAR BRAKES

Be­cause th­ese Evo­ques have an elec­tronic hand­brake, DO NOT re­move the caliper to in­spect the brakes – you’ll need a di­ag­nos­tic tool or fol­low our man­ual process de­scribed on page 64 – oth­er­wise the park­ing brake will con­tin­u­ally try to ap­ply it­self. In­stead, in­spect the pads through the caliper cut-out.

25 CHECK DIFF OIL LEVEL

There’s an oil level check plug on the rear dif­fer­en­tial. Undo it slowly with a 13mm span­ner or socket; if oil doesn’t start to ooze out while you’re do­ing this, then re­move it com­pletely and dip in a fin­ger or cable tie, to en­sure the oil is up to the neck of the aper­ture.

26 CHECK WIPERS

Check all the wiper blades, front and rear. While is­sues with the front ones should be ob­vi­ous, prob­lems with the rear will be less ap­par­ent as it gets used less, plus it’s tucked up un­der the rear spoiler. Any per­ish­ing, split­ting or tears could mark the glass.

27 LUBRICATE ALL LOCKS

Treat all locks, hinges and catches to some lu­bri­ca­tion, us­ing spray grease or old en­gine oil from a can. This in­cludes the petrol flap. Lu­bri­ca­tion of­ten gets missed at ser­vices, which can ul­ti­mately re­sult in mech­a­nisms get­ting stiff or seiz­ing. Use an ex­ten­sion tube to get right into locks.

28 CHECK ALL LIGHTS

Th­ese Evo­ques come fully loaded with a lot of toys, so make sure ev­ery­thing is work­ing. Go through all ex­te­rior lights; are they il­lu­mi­nat­ing as in­tende. The brake and re­vers­ing lamps can be in­spected by a helper or else you can back up to a wall and check the re­flec­tions. Ex­am­ine the seat­belts for wear, tear and ten­sion.

29 GLOVEBOX UNDERPANEL

Get­ting at the pollen fil­ter in­volves a con­tor­tion­ist act in the pas­sen­ger footwell. Move the seat as far back as pos­si­ble to give your­self some room. The trim panel un­der­neath the glovebox lid is held on by three clips, which can be re­moved us­ing a trim re­moval tool. The plas­tic trim then pulls off.

30 RE­MOVE POLLEN FIL­TER

You’ll now be able to see an­other cover ver­ti­cally mounted at the side of the heater box, kept in place by hooks on one side and clips on the other. Be­hind this, you’ll find the fil­ter el­e­ment. Pull this out and put in the new one – be aware, it’s a tight fit.

31 SER­VICE IN­DI­CA­TOR 1

Ideally, the ser­vice in­ter­val needs to be re­set us­ing a di­ag­nos­tic tool, but it didn’t work here. Nei­ther did the man­ual method: turn on the ig­ni­tion, use the steer­ing wheel ‘OK’ but­ton to dis­play the screen menu. Re­peat­edly press the up and down ar­row but­tons un­til ‘Ser­vice Menu’ is high­lighted. Con­firm this, then…

32 SER­VICE IN­DI­CA­TOR 2

… se­lect the last op­tion in the ser­vice menu, and press and hold the but­ton on the end of the left-hand stalk, along with the steer­ing wheel down-ar­row but­ton. Keep them de­pressed for 10 sec­onds, then switch off the ig­ni­tion. Turn it on again to check the ser­vice mes­sage has gone. If not, re­peat the process.

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