ENGINE OIL & FILTER
8 RELEASE ACCESS FLAPS
Two panels on the undertray provide access to the oil filter and sump drain plug. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to turn their securing screws by 180° to release each hinged panel. Make sure the MINI is either raised on a ramp, over an inspection pit or on level ground.
9 DRAIN THE OIL FILTER
The frontmost access panel is for the oil filter. First, the oil inside it needs to be drained, so use a 13mm socket, extension bar and ratchet to undo the drain plug in the centre. Some drain plugs may require a Torx T55 bit instead of a 13mm socket.
10 UNDO OIL FILTER
After draining the oil from the filter, use a 32mm socket, extension bar and ratchet to undo the filter housing. Fully unscrew it and remove it from underneath the engine. There should be very little oil left inside, but have a drain bowl and a spare cloth to hand.
11 REMOVE THE O-RING
Remove the old oil filter and compare it with the new one to ensure it’s identical. Use a screwdriver to prise and manoeuvre the rubber O-ring around the thread of the filter housing to remove it. Clean around the thread of the housing and remove any dirt from inside.
12 FIT NEW DRAIN PLUG
We discovered that our new drain plug for the oil filter housing required a Torx T55 bit to tighten it to the recommended 5Nm. It’s a very small amount and most torque wrenches don’t measure such a low value.
13 O-RING AND FILTER
Fit a new rubber O-ring around the thread of the oil filter housing, ensuring it’s seated on the top of the thread (as shown). Fit the new oil filter into the housing, ensuring it clicks into position. There’s only one way round it can be fitted and clicked into the housing.
14 LUBE THE O-RING
It’s important to coat the new rubber O-ring in a little engine oil to reduce the risk of it dragging and tearing when refitting and tightening the oil filter housing. Use fresh oil. Mad4mini have a traditional oil can, but smearing oil with your fingers is sufficient.
15 TIGHTEN THE OIL FILTER
Refit the oil filter housing with its new filter and O-ring onto the bottom of the engine. Initially tighten it by hand, then torque to the recommended 25Nm.
16 DRAIN THE OIL
Have a drain bowl at the ready, then undo the 17mm sump drain plug. Space is tight, so a thin-walled socket may be required, along with an extension bar and ratchet (there’s limited space for a spanner). Release the oil filler cap and extract the dipstick to help the oil drain. Leave to drain for several minutes.
17 RENEW COPPER WASHER
When the engine oil has drained, refit the 17mm sump plug with a new copper washer. Use a torque wrench to tighten the sump plug to 25-30Nm. The sump plug is threaded into an aluminium sump, so overtightening it risks stripping the thread, resulting in a leak.
18 FIVE LITRES OF 0W-30
Pour five litres of 0W-30 fully-synthetic engine oil into the engine via the oil filler cap. According to Millers Oils, their 5W-30 and even 5W-40 can be used as well. Their recommended service interval is every 18,641 miles or 30,000 kilometres.
19 CHECK THE DIPSTICK
Remove and wipe the dipstick, then refit and extract it again to check the level; it should be close to the ‘Max’ marker. Run the engine to make sure the oil pressure warning light doesn’t remain illuminated, then switch off and check for leaks. After a few minutes, recheck the level on the dipstick (wipe and re-dip it) and top up if required. The level should be halfway between ‘Min’ and ‘Max’.