Car Mechanics (UK)

Key cod­ing

- Rus­sell Wil­ton Austria · Jaguar · Jaguar S-Type

The key-fob has stopped work­ing for my 2002 Jaguar S-TYPE. It had been work­ing fine be­fore­hand and didn’t show any signs that the bat­tery was go­ing flat. I re­placed the bat­tery with a de­cent brand, but it still doesn’t work.

Can these key-fobs be re­pro­grammed eas­ily? Opin­ions dif­fer at the on­line Jaguar fo­rums, with some sug­gest­ing it’s a main dealer job.

From the data I have, the key can only be pro­grammed using di­ag­nos­tic equip­ment. It also notes that, while chang­ing the bat­tery in the key-fob, the but­tons should not be de­pressed. Hav­ing said that, in the past I have rec­om­mended try­ing a couple of dif­fer­ent meth­ods which have worked and would be worth at­tempt­ing.

The first method is: 1) Sit in the ve­hi­cle and turn the ignition from off to on (po­si­tion II) four times.

A chime should be heard. 2) Press the lock but­ton on the re­mote (and any fur­ther re­motes for the ve­hi­cle), then switch off the ignition. Test the op­er­a­tion. If this is not suc­cess­ful, the sec­ond method is slightly longer and I would rec­om­mend leav­ing the ve­hi­cle for a short time be­tween at­tempts. 1) Open the driver’s door and the boot, sit in the ve­hi­cle and pull the main beam switch to­wards you. While do­ing this, in­sert the ignition key and turn it to the ‘ac­ces­sory’ po­si­tion, then release the main beam switch. 2) Pull and release the main beam switch four times – do not flash the lights as

such, but do this slowly. After do­ing this you should hear a chime. 3) Press the ‘lock’ but­ton on the re­mote. If you have more than one key, all

re­motes will need to be pressed in se­quence. An­other chime should be heard. 4) Close and open the driver’s door, then close the door and test the re­mote.

These meth­ods are not guar­an­teed, but they do ac­cess hid­den menus in the con­trol mo­d­ule and have been used with suc­cess in the past.

As the re­mote cen­tral lock­ing stopped sud­denly and with no warning or re­duced range be­fore the fail­ure, the prob­lem may not be the key but the re­mote-con­trol mo­d­ule lo­cated in the driver’s door. If this is the case, the power sup­ply to the mo­d­ule or the mo­d­ule it­self may be at fault. I would first check the wiring be­tween the door and A-post – a broken wire here could cause your prob­lems, as could a bad con­nec­tion within the door.

Fi­nally, there is a small Sealey de­vice which most auto lock­smiths should have which will en­sure that the key is giv­ing out a re­mote sig­nal. This unit is avail­able at Ma­chine Mart for £36:

 ??  ?? The Sealey unit to test for a re­mote sig­nal from the key-fob.
The Sealey unit to test for a re­mote sig­nal from the key-fob.
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