Used Car Focus BMW 3-Series E90

BMW’S 2005-onwards 3-Series still drives very well today, but owning one can be fraught with expensive problems. Andrew Everett investigates these in more detail.

BMW had already been in the small sports saloon market for 20 years with the 3-Series, when the virtually all-new E90 model was launched in Spring 2005. Taking styling cues from both the E60 5-Series and the E63 6-Series Coupé, the new car was nothing like the previous E46 in character or styling.

Based mechanically on the 1-Series that had been launched the previous year (the suspension, steering and brakes are all virtually identical), the new car featured the push-button stop-start as an example of new incoming technology. The model range was similar to before, yet the 316i didn’t arrive in the UK. We had the 318i and 320i with the four-cylinder 2.0 Valvetronic petrol unit, along with the 2.0 M47N diesel for both 318d and 320d cars.

New N52 engines, though, were used in the 325i and 330i, while the 330d was the M57N2 as launched in the E60 530d. 2006 saw the launch of the 335i with the twin-turbo N54 and the twin-turbo 335d, while the E91 estate (‘Touring’) arrived later that year, followed by the E92 coupé and convertible in six-cylinder form only.

In 2007 there were a number of changes to the engine line up and the biggest was the launch of the all new N47 2.0 diesel. This alloy block unit featured a rear-mounted timing chain, lighter weight with better power/economy.

The N46 petrol was replaced by the

N43 direct-injection unit, the N52 was replaced by a direct-injection N53, and the 3.0 M57N diesel was replaced by the new N57 on the 330d cars for the 2008 model year – although the 325d retained the older engine for now. The 2.0 N43engined coupé and convertible cars were launched at this point as the 320i.

The E90 was given the LCI (Life Cycle Impulse) facelift in late 2008, involving new rear lights with LEDS, a new ‘double hump’ bonnet and a new grille that gave the E90 a more modern appearance. The bumpers and wheels were also revised. Meanwhile the 325d received a detuned version of the N57 3.0 diesel engine, but the 335d retained the old unit.

In early 2010 the 163bhp 320d Efficient Dynamics arrived, using a new version of the N47 diesel from the new F10 520d. This used different gearing and taller-aspect tyres as well as auto stop-start to maximise economy. By this time, BMW had replaced the twin-turbo N54 in the 335i with the single turbo N55 and a lower-powered 316d arrived.

Production wound down in 2012 in preparation for the all-new F30 3-Series that has just gone out of production.

Trim and equipment

BMW rarely gave anything away in the early days, though by 2005 they were a bit more generous with the kit they fitted as standard. There were ordinary ES and SE versions – the ES had 16-inch alloy wheels with manual air-conditioning controls and no cruise control, yet still had cup holders and four electric windows.

SE models added better-looking 16-inch alloys, digital climate control with cruise control and a multi-function steering wheel, as well as parking sensors (PDC) at the rear.

M Sport models added Sports seats, wheels and suspension, the M Tech bumpers and sills, plus other minor upgrades like high-gloss shadow line exterior trim replacing satin black.

The E90 was available with a vast array of options – full leather (M Sport had Alcantara suede as standard),

Xenon headlights, headlight wash-wipe, rain-sensing wipers, PDC front and rear, professional navigation with or without TV function, LOGIC7 or Hifi upgraded speakers with the Professional CD player, metallic paint, six-speed automatic transmission, seats with electric adjustment and/or heating, electric glass sunroof, electric rear screen blind and through-loading rear seats.

There are loads of basic-spec, fourcylinder cars around, and the trick is finding a nice spec example. A good metallic colour with leather is a starting point with options varying in usefulness; the upgraded 10- or 13-speaker sound systems are worth having, whereas Comfort Access (which means the car unlocks as you walk up to it) probably isn’t. E90’s are at the age where individual options make little difference to the value, although sat-nav is sought after.

Body & electrics

The E90 range very rarely rusts unless it’s been repaired after an accident.

After the rust-bucket E46 this comes as a nice change, and even if you need a wing or a door there are enough damaged examples being dismantled now that finding the correct colour panel should

not be an issue. Coupés and convertibles have plastic front wings. Upgrading with M Sport bumpers and other bits is simple enough but can be pricey as it will almost certainly involve painting as well. Door locks and window regulators are vastly more reliable than the outgoing E46, with failures being very rare. The interior trim is extremely rugged.

The E90 electrics are generally pretty good. The battery is coded to the car and needs to be of the correct type. If replacing like-for-like you can often get away with not recoding, but if you replace your old wet-cell battery to an AGM battery (or vice versa) you will have to code the new battery in.

All E90s have an electric steering lock that can result in one of two warning lights. The orange steering wheel symbol indicates a problem which can often be cured simply by clearing the fault code and resetting the lock counter with diagnostics. You can buy a resistor mod online to fool the lock, but often the lock needs removing and cleaning out. Some owners have even cut the locking pawl out so it can never lock again! Check the MOT status of this though if you come across it. The red steering wheel symbol means the column is locked so the vehicle will need to be recovered – so get any orange symbols checked and cleared ASAP.

Instrument clusters never seem to fail, but the radio pixels do. The Comfort Access relay behind the rear bumper (or behind the boot’s rear trim panel) can go scat and render the car undriveable. Unplugging it restores the car back to life.

The idrive controller (CCC unit) on sat-nav equipped cars can give trouble. It’s an expensive fix even if you can find a used CCC unit.

Xenon lights are fantastic to use, but be aware of the cost of replacements or

bulbs/igniter units. The adaptive Xenons are a frightening price – try a grand apiece, and good luck finding used ones! The LED tail-lights on LCI cars can be pricey as well. Make sure you’ve had the BMW recall for the battery cable done, and check the rear battery cable-to-boot floor connector under the rear.

The convertibles are not immune to water leaks – sort any leaks as soon as you are aware of them.

Transmission

These are all either six-speed manual or six-speed automatic. Manuals are

OK, but beware crunchy second gear syncros with the later ones being worse, especially those with auto stop-start engines. A juddering clutch will probably also involve a new flywheel – expensive.

On diesels, feel for a chattering as the clutch is depressed which means the dual mass flywheel springs are tired – again, not a cheap fix at all. An incurable driveline vibration can be due to a missing prop balance weight.

The automatics are nicer to use, and generally reliable. Problems can be down to software or a blown bridge seal between the valve block and the transmission casing. A good used box is cheaper than a rebuild.

Running gear

Some good, some bad. The front suspension is pretty reliable, and both the hydraulic and electric power steering racks are dependable and cheap to replace secondhand.

Front dampers can be past their best by 100k miles and are an utter sod to replace. At the back, BMW persisted with their awkward top-mount design

that requires boot trim to be removed first – not much fun on a Touring.

Rear subframe corrosion is not unknown on early cars from harsh climates, so give that a good look over.

Bushes and balljoints are all consumable items, as are the brakes. Standard pump-action brake bleeding will damage the master cylinder. ABS modules are a common fault on these; on four-cylinder cars there are plenty of good used units, but those on the six-cylinder cars they’re not so common – and pricey. You are best off removing the unit and sending it to ECU Testing in Heanor (www.ecutesting.com) to be repaired. ABS faults can be caused by sensors, or sometimes rusted trigger rings on the rear outer CV joints; you can remove the driveshafts, get the old rusted and split rings off and clean up the CV joint, then leave the driveshaft in the freezer for an hour before heating new rings in boiling water and tapping them on. Poor or non-existent brake servo action will be due to a failed pump on the back of the cylinderhead on the 318i and 320i.

Differentials on 318i and 320i cars have always been an issue. They use a smaller diff than the others and they use ball bearings; these should be fine, except the oil used is very thin and cannot be changed unless you suck it out via the refill hole. DIY rebuilds are very difficult and good replacements are at least £300 (recons are £400+), so changing the oil to EP90/140 synthetic is a good idea. The other diffs are generally very good.

Engine reliability

This is the expensive bit. Starting with the petrol fours, the N46 was okay but has a number of problems; timing chain and tensioner rails, Vanos units, Valvetronic motor and sensor – plus a multitude of oil leaks and issues with worn piston rings or stem seals. They’re only worth having if they are oil-tight and performing really well. Even then, the timing chain assembly needs replacing by 100,000 miles. Watch for oil smoke after idling.

The N43 is even worse and we advise avoiding it. It still leaks oil and, although it doesn’t have a VVT motor to go wrong, it has four very expensive injectors as well as coil packs. The NOX sensor is £400, available only from BMW. Oil pressure problems are often due to the electronic pressure control valve behind the alternator.

The M47N diesel is a reliable unit, but on 320d cars, remove the swirl flaps and fit blanks. They need regular oil changes and a new breather unit every 40,000 miles. Turbos can fail, though you can buy new centre cartridges and the turbo isn’t too hard to remove.

The N47 has the infamous rearmounted timing chain. This has been a real problem and while some engines do 150,000 miles or more on the original, 100,000 is a good time to remove the gearbox, flywheel and sump before changing the whole lot including the oil pump chain. Bank on £1500 using genuine BMW parts.

Given that diesel high-pressure pump failure is becoming increasingly common, we recommend fitting a £350 recon pump at the same time. If you don’t and the pump fails, it will write off the entire fuel system with metal swarf getting into the injectors, fuel rail, intank pump – the whole lot.

The N57 diesels are going the same way but they aren’t quite so prone to failure. The older M57N diesel is a pretty good unit that rewards regular oil changes like the M47N does.

The N52 six-cylinder petrols were great engines but are getting on a bit now. The timing chain set-up is the same as the N46 but they are less prone to problems. There are, however, other issues. One is the electric water pump, and many will now be on their last legs – we would be looking at fitting and coding a new one to the car as a precaution. N52s run hot like the N46 and cook the oil seals and gaskets, resulting in the usual oil leaks.

That’s annoying but not too expensive to fix – unlike worn inlet and exhaust cam bearing ledges. On these, the camshaft runs in a removable carrier on the exhaust and directly in the cylinderhead on the inlet side. The steel oil pressure sealing ring eventually wears a very slight groove in the head resulting in oil pressure to the Vanos units being out of specification; this creates rough running and an EML glowing. Repair involves the head coming off and either a very skilled bit of welding and line boring, or another head. Either way it’s enough to financially write the car off unless you can DIY. It’s not that common – just be aware.

The N53 that replaced it has both cam bearing ledges made to be replaceable, but it does have the same coil/injector/ sensor faults as the N43. They’re nice when they’re on form but try to make sure that the original Piezo injectors have been renewed recently. They’re really poor and expensive to change.

Finally, the 335i. These were a twin-turbo 3.0 N52 with high-pressure direct-injection and they were very quick – though not designed for ten years of hard driving, with many examples now showing bottom-end problems.

Fantastic when running, but we think a good 335d is a better idea.