Preparation

At the outset you will need to remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine; this panel is secured by five bolts (10mm socket spanner); removal and re-fitting is rapid and straightforward.

There’s quite a bit of underbonnet space in which to work, and in many respects the car is easy to service at home. Having said that, some components, including the turbocharger and the fuel pump, are tucked away and access is not great. The same applies to the fuel filter but it is worth renewing it anyway at least once a year or ideally sooner. It is surprising what a difference a new filter can make to the car’s running.

Always fill the fuel filter with diesel or fuel system cleaner on re-assembly, to aid priming. Edward does not recommend cranking and cranking an engine to bleed out air.

Good news from an ownership point of view is that the 12V battery is a traditional lead-acid type, which is relatively inexpensive to buy and the battery itself can be renewed quite quickly and without difficulty – also no coding to the vehicle is required. When installing the battery, apply a little anti-seize compound to the securing fastener threads, and protective waterproof silicone grease to the battery connections/terminals, to protect against moisture ingress.

Our usual advice applies: carry out a full service if the maintenance history of the car is not known. In addition, during maintenance and repair work always use components to original equipment quality. These steps will help to preserve the engine and maintain efficient, trouble-free running.

Always check water pump condition when renewing the cambelt; renew the pump if there are signs of bearing play or leaks (not the easiest of jobs for a home mechanic, but it can be achieved with patience and a comprehensive toolkit).

While a diagnostic tool is required for some of the more complex interrogation operations on the management system, equally a good quality multimeter can help with many of the basic assessments.