Nissan Note clutch change

1 In many respects the Note’s engine compartment is reasonably accessible. With regard to transmission removal, the operations have to take place at the left-hand side. The battery and the left-hand gearbox mounting must be removed to provide access.

2 The first step is to disconnect, detach (bolt; 13mm spanner size) and remove the 12V battery. This is essential for reaching and dismantling/removing the left-hand engine mounting assembly, located immediately underneath where the battery sits.

3

John removed the complete airbox assembly to provide more working room. Disconnect all electrical connections, also the hose at the left-hand side, and remove the securing bolts (10mm). Plug all intake trunking apertures with clean rag/paper.

4

With the 12V battery and air box assembly out of the way, this general view of the left-hand end of the engine confirms that the transmission unit is somewhat buried.

At a later stage the complex engine mounting assembly needs to be removed.

5

The clutch slave cylinder’s hydraulic fluid feed pipe must be separated from the connection point (centre of photo) at the front of the bellhousing. A ‘push-pull’ type retaining clip is employed, and this may well be reluctant to move; work with care!

6

The crankshaft sensor is attached to the bellhousing by a single bolt (10mm). This delicate part needs to be extricated carefully after removal of the bolt and kept out of harm’s way during transmission removal and re-fitting operations. The uppermost two bellhousing bolts (14mm) can be removed (very long bolts), together with most of the others; but until you are ready to remove the transmission from the car, leave two ‘safety’ bolts in place to hold the gearbox to the engine.

8

A forked implement can be used (with great care) to prise apart the two gearchange mechanism connections that sit on top of the gearbox. A trim component removal tool, or similar, can be used, as shown in our photograph.

9

The two gearchange mechanism operating cables can now be teased upwards and out of their U-shaped retainer brackets (circled). Or, if the cables are reluctant to move, unbolt and detach the brackets, complete with cables from the gearbox.

10

Raise the front of the car high enough for the gearbox to be lowered from it (support bodywork on axle stands), drain the gearbox oil, detach the bellhousing’s vital earth strap (not shown), unbolt the transmission to subframe bracket assembly…

11

…which looks like this when removed from the vehicle. Carefully examine the structural condition of the bracket assembly, including its composite bushes at each end. If in any doubt about its condition, renew it. Check also the three bolts (13mm).

12

The reverse lamp switch is found close to the base of the gearbox, where it is vulnerable. Disconnect the electrical plug/socket, and ideally unscrew and remove the switch so that it doesn’t get damaged during gearbox removal/re-fitting.

13

On each side, remove the road wheel, then release and remove the nut (30mm socket spanner) securing the hub assembly. Ideally use a strong, six-sided socket spanner that will grip the nut better than a bi-hex type.

14

After detaching the ABS cable from its U-shaped bracket on the suspension leg (to avoid the cable being strained) release and remove the two bolts (13mm) securing each caliper assembly to the hub/pad carrier.

15

The caliper assembly can now be carefully eased away from the disc; there’s no need to disturb the brake pads, nor to disconnect the hydraulic hose. However, it is essential that strain is not placed upon the hose, so…

16

…the caliper can be temporarily attached to the suspension leg, high up and out of the way of operations being carried out towards the base of the leg assembly. A length of stout rope could be used, although John chose to use a large cable tie.

17

Release the two nuts (18mm) and bolts (16mm) securing each hub unit to its suspension leg, and withdraw the bolts. This has the effect of freeing up the lower ends of the suspension legs to be moved outwards for extricating the driveshafts.

18

Employing a copper-faced hammer, and using the minimum amount of force necessary, tap each driveshaft inwards through the hub assembly (thus freeing the shaft from its splines within the hub unit).

19

Now, as gently as possible, extricate each driveshaft from the inside of each hub assembly. This is a good time to check the condition of the gaiters at each end of each driveshaft and also those protecting the lower swivel joint on each suspension leg.

20

CAREFULLY lever/persuade each driveshaft outwards, away from its location within the differential. Both shafts need to be clear of the differential to allow the transmission unit to be removed, but the right-hand shaft can stay in the vehicle.

21

Before the transmission can be removed, the bolts securing the starter motor (inaccessible!) must come out, but the starter can be left in place. Remove the bolts (14mm) at the bellhousing base (note that two run in opposite directions to the rest!).

22

Within the left-hand front wheelarch, there’s a liner panel that needs to be detached at its forward end. It is secured by plastic clips that can be eased out using a forked hook designed for removing interior trim panels. Take care; the clips are brittle!

23

With the securing clips removed, carefully pull outwards the forward section of the liner panel at the front of the arch. There is no need to fully remove the liner from the vehicle, you just need to be able to move it outwards from its normal location.

24

With the engine and gearbox securely supported on two separate and high-lifting trolley jacks (as described in our ‘Useful Notes/advice’ section), release and remove the nut (16mm) securing the upper transmission mounting.

25

Next to go is the cable support mounting bracket, which is secured in place by two bolts (13mm spanner size). These are unscrewed from above – there are two caged nuts underneath, into which the bolts are screwed.

26

John now turned his attention to the two bolts (17mm) holding the mounting in place (note that two U-shaped captive locators are employed here). The two bolts are released and unscrewed – these may be very tight and reluctant to move.

27

The three bolts (13mm) holding the support bracket assembly are now removed, releasing the bracket. BUT the mounting stud may be seized in the bracket; apply penetrating oil and carefully tap the stud downwards/out, using a soft-faced hammer.

28

With any remaining bellhousing to engine bolts now removed (including ‘safety’ bolts left in place thus far), carefully ease the gearbox away from the engine. As seen in the centre of this photograph, the gap between the two should open up!

29

Working with great care (and ideally a helper or two), guide the very weighty transmission assembly around the car’s engine bay crossmember and other obstacles (MIND YOUR FINGERS!), so that it can be lowered to the ground on a trolley jack.

30

Unscrew and remove the six bolts (12mm) securing the clutch pressure plate assembly and driven plate to the flywheel. Available space in which to work isn’t great but there’s just enough room to reach the bolts using a socket spanner.

31

With care, ease the clutch pressure plate assembly from its dowels on the flywheel, and pull the pressure plate and driven plate away from the flywheel. (MAKE SURE that you are not underneath the clutch assembly as it comes off; it’s heavy!).

32

The driven plate on this Nissan had survived without the clutch starting to slip, but the friction material was worn right down, with the rivets beginning to become ‘polished’ by metal-to-metal contact. Note which way round the driven plate fits…

33

Always carry out a close inspection of the flywheel surface; excessive heat build-up can cause crazing/cracking of the surface. However, in this case the flywheel was fine. Check-tighten the six flywheel securing bolts too.

34

Before fitting the new driven plate and pressure plate to the car, ALWAYS trial-fit the driven plate to the gearbox, to ensure that the driven plate slides easily on the input shaft splines. Only then insert a clutch alignment tool into the plate’s centre.

35

If you don’t own a clutch-driven plate centralising alignment tool, sometimes one comes with the clutch kit, or generic tools of this type are readily available and inexpensive. Align the plate and fit the clutch assembly on to the flywheel dowels.

36

Fit the retaining bolts around the clutch pressure plate perimeter, and while ensuring that the driven plate remains centralised, tighten the bolts a little at a time in diagonal sequence, to the torque figure shown in our ‘Important Data’ panel.

37

This shot shows the new concentric slave cylinder and release bearing assembly, as supplied in the kit of parts that John ordered. Note that the new assembly comes complete with a new hydraulic pipe connection point and retaining clip.

38

It’s a straightforward operation to release the two bolts (10mm) holding the original concentric slave cylinder to the bellhousing. Never be tempted to leave the old slave cylinder/release bearing in place; even if everything looks fine, renew now.

39

Extricate the slave cylinder and release bearing assembly, then clean and closely inspect the bellhousing and the first motion shaft. Fresh paraffin or a little spirit/panel wipe solution, applied on a clean rag, helps to remove greasy deposits.

40

Install the new clutch slave cylinder/ release bearing assembly, bolt in place and re-assemble all other components in the reverse order to that used when dismantling. On completion, bleed the clutch hydraulic system of air; road-test the car and smile!